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. Gentleman's Guide- 


I N H I S 

TOUR through FRANCE. 

W R O T E B Y 


Jfifho lately travelled on a Principle which he moff 
j fincerely recommends to his Countrymen, viz. 
5 Not to fpend more Money in the Country of our 
' natural Enemy, than is, fequilite to fupport, with.. 
Decency, the Chara&er t>f an Englishman. 


Greatly Enlarged and Improved : • 



O F » 

All the Poft Roads of France. 

With the Diitances of the-Towns, laid down in a 
plain, familiar Manner; fo as to render the Work* 
much more ufeful than any other Publication of 
the Kind. 

W h O N D O N: 

Printed for G. Kearsly, N°. i, in Ludgate-Strc«t. 












' r 1S2Q 


Jefcription of Paris, - . ? 

J worth feeing in Paris - J^ 

Entertainments of Paris, and their 
it Prices, " " «a 

r an Englishman'* laying cut his 
« Paris* - $i 

^.idi-.A .^41 




fyENERAL Remarks meeffary to be read 
^ by a Gentleman who defigns to travel ; 
with an accurate Aceount of the French 
Coins 9 t 

from London to Calais, 14 

\l From Calais to Paris, through Abbeville, aa 
^ from Calais to Paris, by the Way of Lifle, 
V through Dunkirk and Ypres, - a8 

v % Another Road to Lifle, through St. Omer% 
**% which is the near eft ^ - 3£ 

X From London to Paris, by Way *f Bright- 
r heltnftone in Suflex, to Dieppe, through 
Si Rouen in Normandy, 38 

N| Pofl Road from Rouen to Paris, by Mante, 4a 
% Poft Road from Rouen to Paris by Pontoife, 44 
,Direclionsfor travelling from Rouen to Paris 
by Watery . - - 46 

LV ^AjhortDefcriptionof^2x\^ - 47 

N^ Curiojkies worth feeing in Paris - 53. 

. Public Entertainments of Paris, and their 
< different Prices^ - - 5^ 

t -R«/fj for an Englishman'* laying out his 
Vj Money in Paris,, - - 61 


jf Sefcription of the Royal Palace of Ver- 

faijfes, - - - 69 

A Lift of its principal Paintings, - 85 

■ ■ '. Gardens and Statues, , - 16* 
Biftription of the Paltas of Marly, -' is? 

■ " Vincenncs, * m 

■ ■ ■ ■ -' ■ ■ Meudon, - n% 
» ■ ■ ..■■, ' 5. Germains, 114 
*■ Fontaineblcau, 116 

■ ■ S. Cloudy - 12,0 

A Defcripttoh of tfa moft magnificent Coitritry 

Seats j near Paris, 7 , ~* " I2 5 
7X* Route from Paris /* Lyorfs,' - 127 
JFVww Pans /* Lyons', by Moutins, - 128. 
Paris to Lyons, by JVdy of Dybh" in 

Burgundy,' - fyy 

Defcription of the City of L^ops, and forhe 

other Totims in the South of France, .-, 1I46 
General Obfervations on -the Climate. Ma'fc 

,ners 9 Gtivernnienty arid Revenues of France, 208 . 
A Lift of the heft Ordinaries and Eating- 

Houfes 9 with an Account of the Expenct ffoV 

Dining; &c. at each y - - , - 212. 
■■ 1 ■■ of the bejl % Hotels or Lodging- Houfes\ 

with other Particulars neceffary far a 

Traveller to know, - - 229 

— of the Stage-Coaches and their Fares 

to different Parts of the Kingdom, - 243' 
- ■ ' of the Water-Carriages y - 20 i 



Gentleman's Guide, 


Tour through Francs, 


General Remarks^ necejfary to be read by. a 
Gentleman who dejigns to {ravel ; with an 
accurate Account of the. French Coins. 

AF o n d N e s $ fof travelling being 
tjhe chara&eriftic of the Eng&lv 
more than of any other nation ; 
I imagined that I ctfuld not. /employ my 
time better than in «the writing the fol- 
lowing flieets ; which I hope may prove 
acceptable to the public, >a$ it is (to my 
B- great 

2 The Gentleman's Guide 

great furprife) the firft of that kind that 
has ever appeared in print. I am much - 
concerned for my inability to execute it 
as I could wifh ; but the only, ,and beft 
apology I can make, is, to abide by the 
truth, let all partiality afide> and relate 
nothing but what 4ims really occurred tp 
my own ebfervatitm. 

The love of my country, and the re- 
gard I entertain for its interefts, have 
always a place in my thoughts : through 
my whole conduft, and in all my obfer- 
vations, ftiH are thofe points in view $ 
and happy fhould I efteem mylelf, if their 
refults would conduce, in the leaft degree, 
to the advantage, improvement, or pre- 
caution, of any of my worthy fellow 

Thefe, it is to be hoped, are motives 
very fufficient to induce me to an under- 
taking of this nature ; through the whole 
of whigh, I fhall ufe my utmoft endea- 
vours not only to make the tour, frugal, 
pleafing, and advantagebus, but alfo to 
avoid the many inconveniences and impo- 
fitions, which muft naturally occur tp all 
thofe who travel, that have not had a 
previous intimation of them. 

I mud beg leave to obferve, it is a 
general conceived notion in England, that 


in his Tour through France. 3 

it is necefiary to have a confiderable for-, , 
tune to make the tour of France : . fo it is, 
Iconfefs^ if a man is determined to be a 
dupe to Frenchmen, and enter, into all the . 
follies^ vices, and fopperies, of that vain, 
fuperfici# people ; but I can with vera- 
city declare, that duripg eighteen months 
I was abroad, it did not 150 L. 
fterling. * In this time I learned their 
language j made riiyfelf apquaiftted with 
their laws, cuftoms, and manners, ; never 
omitted examining with care, all the cu- . 
riofities worthy a ftfangtfr's iflfpeftion j ■ 
.always appeared in genteel company ; 
kept my fervant when in a town ; and, in 
all refpefts, fupported with reputation, 
the character I aflumed, 

While I adted on this plan . (which pro-. 
ceeded not more from qeconomy, than a 
patriotic difpofition) how frequently did I 
with concern fee our young nobility and 
gentry, who, even travelling, for. their 
education, ipent their money and time, 
little to their own improvement,. or the 
credit of their 'Country, frequently col* 
le&ing mobs in f l>e ftreets, by throwing 
money from their windows 3 /and in their 
daily aftions confirming Frenchmen in 
their unalterable opinions, that the Eng- 
lifh are all immenfely rich ; and confe- 
B 2 quently 

4 The Gentleman's Guide 

quently can afford to pay double what a 
Frenchman will for tlie fame article ! 
• People in trade find the Englifh cuftom 
fo vaftly beneficial, that they have their 
lookers-out on purpofe to bring them to 
their fhops and taverns, who have aftiare 
in the impofitions arifing : of this I wa? 
forewarned by an honeft Frenchman, who, 
early on my going into France,' advifed 
me never to oflfer mote than one half of 
what they afked me ; and, moft frequent- 
ly, I bought what I wanted at that fate. 

It would be needlefs to addrefs myfdf, 
on this occafion, to gentlemen of large 
fortunes, who travel with equipages and 
fcrvants •, .they even in their own country 
will meet with many impofitions, which" 
a gentleman travelling privately muft na- 
turally avoid > yet this one article I (hall 
recommend to them, not to take abrpad 
their owii poft chaifes, as their flight 
ftrufture is by no means calculated for 
the heavy pavement of the French roads ; 
having known feveral gentlemen obliged , 
to fell them ft* no other reafon. 

I fhall now. proceed to equip my adven- 
turer in the following manner. 

Should he be ah officer, I wculd have 
him by all means carry with him his ijni- 
form cr regimentals; that being the moft 


in his Tcur through France. 5 

refpe&able drefs he can poflibly appear 
in, and which, in a great meafure, eat- 
cludes him from many impofitions ; and 
entitles him to mefs with the French offi- 
cers in any town he may chufe to refide 
at. This, of all ichemes,. is the molt 
eligible for hirrjt, as they are moft of them 
extremely friendly \ men of ftri<£t honour, 
and will, at all times, prevent his being 
impofed on ; as the privileges they en- 
joy * (tho 5 their pay is fo vaftly inferior 
to ours) mal^e them not only reipe6ted» 
but feared by people in bufinttfs. They 
iall foeak gpod French ; are very mady tQ 
fet him right in their language-, and as 
long as he behaves like a man of honour 
among them, he is fare to receive every 
civility in their power to grant : for their 
attachment to the Englim officers, (and 

* A French officer is exempted from all taxes 
except the poll-tax, which is very trifling : there is 
a duty upon every article, though the produce of 
France, which when he buys, is taken off : thefe, 
with many other advantages, and the excenlve 
cheapaefs of every neceflary of life, make their pay 
adequate (if not fuperior) to the Bririih officers. 
TKofe of the navy have the fame pay in peace as in- 
war ; a captain of a frigate's appointment being 
3000 livres, and a lieutenant's 1500, which enables 
them to live genteel, confequemly refpe&ed where* 
ever they go. 

B 3 indeed 


6 ¥he Gentleman's Guide 

indeed the Englilb in general, from their 

generoys and unprecedented conduft to 

them, when prifpners in, the late war) 

makes them folicitous to ferve them : 

thefe, preferable to all others in France, 

are the men he fhould endeavour to be 

moft intimate with; and it is in every 

Englifh gentleman's power to be'fo in a 

little time, by frequenting the military 

. cofFee-hdufe : but let hifri not too readily 

.cultivate acquaintance *, let Mm firft take 

. a: \ little time to Wake prudent cfoferva- 

• tions) and 1 thofe : wfrom . he fqes T are moft 

refpe&ed among 'themfelyes, are the men 

I would recommend to. his inuiqacy j for 

' in* their corps, as in 6urs y fbme do not 

merit being taken riptice of. 

...i Icwillitowand then be aflc 

tKenvtohis chamber to breakf aft/ which 

) is all th6 expenoe attending it j as ^ie will 

diiie and' flip* with them at their auberge y 

\ or. tavef ii : • this expense is fcldom * more, 

. and moft frequently lefs, than 50 livres 

■ a mdnth , *,'W F hkh'is Uttfe more .thajn two 

guineas 1 ;• a li^re being abovit tw-;pence 

fterlingi for. which he is found a dinner 

and fupper, with a defert of fruit, cheefe, 

and fweet-meats^ and a$ Much wine as 

he will dVinlt. •, which (except in time of 


in his TourJhrwgh France* 7 

Lent) an Englifhman in health may 
always, make a fhift with. 

It may not be improper here to let you 

. into the nature of the French coins, which 
you muft pay a ftrift obfervance to, as 
they are difficult to diftinguifh from each 

< other ; and without proper notice, you 
will be frequently chelated when buying 
fmall matters. 

GO L D. 
A louis d *or, twjenty-four livres French * 
twenty fhillings Englifh, 


A grand ecu, or fix livifes piece, five 
fhillihgs Englifh. 

The ecu, or three livijcs piece, two 
fhillings and fix-pence Engliftv 

Th6 vingt-quatre fob piece, one fhil-. 
fing fingliffTr "*" ? ■-• — • ./ % 

V * A liyre is no-xbin, but^comfttitation, 
ahd^is twenty-pence ; French, or ten-pence 

A aouze fols .piece, is twelve-pence 
French,, or fix-pence Englifh. 

A fix fols piece is fix-pence French, 
Or tliree-pence Englifh. 

B 4 ' COP- 

f "The Gentleman's Guide 

COPPER, mixed <with Silvek. 

A deux fols, or two-pence French, one 
penny Englifli, is the moft common fmall 
coin in France, and hath an L upon it, 
and is near the fizc of our fix-pence, but 
is copper, with a white or filverifh mix- 
ture, and twelve of thefe make a vingt- 
quatre fols piece, or one (hilling Englifh. 

They have alfo another fmall piece of 
much the fame fize and colour, but not 
quite fo white, and fomewhat. thinner, 
which is one fol and an half, three half- 
pence French, or three farthings Engliflu 


A fol* or fous, is apiece of copper 
l|ke our halfpenny, value one penny 
French, or one halfpenny Engliftx •, twenty 
four of thefe make an Englilh fhilling. 

A deux liard.pieca U h*A£*JalFrcnth x 
Or a farthing Englifh, and alike to it. 

A jjagl, or farthing French, is the 
yalue otKalf a farthing Engltfh, 

N. B." No coin of a former reign will 
pafs in this king's time, all the corns be- 
ing called; in upon th? demife of their 
king's. Traveljecs fhould therefore be 
cartful iiotE fo receive: any old coin v\ 

* changed 

in his Tour through France, g. 

change, as they will meet with great dif- 
ficulty irt getting jt .off again. 

An Englifh guinea pafles in France for 
twenty-four livres only, or twenty . (hil- 
lings Englifh ; ib that gentlemen lofe a 
Hulling by every guinea they change in* 

Banknotes are not negotiable in France ^ 
and it is extremely difficult to get them 
changed in any towns •, in fome places,, 
abfolotely impofiible. 

If you draw, while abroad* on a banker 
in France, you generally are charged fe- 
ven or eight pounds per cenL difcompt ^ 
but if on a French merchant^ who wants 
to tranfmit money to London, it is gene- 
rally done at par : this iaft is therefore thtt 
molt faving method, but then you "fftuifc. 
always wait trU they have a confirmatipn 
that your bill is honoured.. ; 

Iatb a final! trunk f would have yQ\* 
put a dozen of thirty they ought to .facs 
much coarfer than the Englifh iji general 
wear them ; otherwife, their flovenly 
manner of wafting, (which is by beating 
them with a board againfi a ftone in coid 
water) will foon oblige you to buy others ; 
half a dozen pair of Ihoes j a pair of 
boots, and buckfkin breeches, would be 
Epquifite; as the French leather is not 
B 5; proof 


iq The Gentleman's Guide 

proof againft water : your dockings 
fhould be filk, which is thefalhicm of 
France, even among the meaneft mecha- 
nics ; - thefe, with the cloaths on your 
back* and the hat on your head, with the 
-.Jbeft French di6tionary and grammar ex- 
tant, are all the luggage you ought to 
take •, for at the firll town you propofe 
to refide at, you fhould fit out a La moat 
de France^ and continue fo as long as you 
ftay in that country : don't think this ad- 
vice unfeafonable \ as an Engltfh drefs is 
a fufficient objedt for French knavery : it 
would be wrong to buy more things at a 
time than are requifite ; as you can re- 
cruit your Hock at every town you come 
\ to> or chufe to continue at for fome time* 
J had almoft forgot two neceflary articles 
called a knife and fork ; which if you 
hegleft Taking with you, you'll often run 
the hazard of lofinp; your dinner ; it be- 
,\ ing the ciiftom of thole very polite people 
(women, as well as men) to. lug out their 
] great (harp-pointed knives when going to 
:) their meab •, as there are feldom any laid 
■;?' on the table,, excepx.called foe ; and when 
::.they appear (if they had any edge) an 
• Englifhman would .fuppofe they were 
made to ftick^jxixd^^ to 

. their forks, which are made ia the fhape 



in 18$ Tour ihrough"Ifcw\cc. r * i x 

\ . of *fpQon$*. with three pmngs, they arc 

fqyaljy^fdefs, -or unhandy. 

X& aaEnglifhman»itieenis vetyiftrange 

«_ togq into an inn and make a bargain for 

his bed, his fupper, his horfes and fer- 

yants, before he. eats oar il*eps; yet this is 

corpmon in France, and tor a Granger 

^v^a neoeffary^jfor: though you wiU meet 

Y lt h nj^imi^f^ at the 

inns upon, the road in France, as with' us, 

at, your entrance; you will meet with an 

exorbitant bill (without this precaution) 

at your departure ; therefore, when you 

comedo an inn, where you intend to ftay 

all night, or to dine, afk. the price of 

1 your rpom and bed* and order a fupper 

f or dinger at thirty, forty, fifty, or fixty 

I ibis per head •, you will then be well (erved 

with, perhaps, many difhes, any one of 

which, had you ordered in particular, 

Would have been charged treble. 

It will naturally occur to you to get 
letters of credit on Mefirs. Foley, Wolfe,, 
or fome other banker at Paris, and thefe 
^ill be fufficient to» conduct you through 
France, as they will give you recom- 
mendations from town to town;, wich^ 
-9ut which, if you have ever ib. much 
•money, in your ^pocket, you will neither 
be will received* or reipe&ed; if you 
B & can 

fi The Gentleman's Guide 

can procure other letters to any of the 
creditabfe inhabitants of a town, they 
will be greatly inftrumental to your pair- 
ing your time more agreeably, as the 
I rench are always fond of company ; and* 
indeed, fhew great hofphality to Gran- 
gers, when gentcely recommended. 

In any town you chufe to refide at, you 
fliould, foon after your arrival, pay your 
compliments to_jJhe_ inte.ndant, and other 
principal officers : this method is not 
only genteel, but political, as you may 
have many caufes for redrefs, from the 
' natural injuftice, and inclination to vil- 
lainy, hourly pra&ifed by the common 
people; and whilft yoa are an inhabitant 
of any town in Franqe, you are under the 
proteftion of the intendant, and . have a 
light to claim it, whenever occafiou of- 
f.i s ; and fhould he be. (low in the admi^ 
niftration of juftice. (as indeed. they too- 
frequently are) there is our arnbafiador at 
Paris to remonftrate to ; who* if he 
pleafes, may get him moft feveipely reprir 
manded for net having done his duty. I 
may venture to affert, (frcm fome cir- 
cumftances wherein I myfelf was con*- 
cerned) that were the Englifh to ex*rt 
themfelves with becoming fp rit, in apply- 
ing for juftice to the fountain h *ad, when: 


in hswur tfifough France^ %$ 
ill treated, tbey^ould not have fo often 
ooafion to do it; and might be more 
certain to meet with lefs difficulties, bet- 
ter treatment and refpeft, wfiilft on their 
travels : but I am concerned to qbfcrve* 
that moft of them being too indolent ta 
put themfelves to a little trouble or ex- 
pence, in defence of juftice* will pay a 
moft impofmg bill, and too frequently 
put up with abuftve treatment ; which is. 
(in my opinion) inconfiffent with the cha- 
racter of * a man of honour. I have 
kno^m thefe rafcals, when they Have fall- 
en into the hands of proper fpirited men* 
made fych fevere examples of> that the 
very name of an Englifhman fpread a 
terror, and was refpe&ed ever after ia 
the country where it happened : where- 
fore it is obvious from what I have faid, 
that the impofitions and diirefped which 
travellers meet with, totally proceed from 
their own indolence ; and that they are 
not equally refpe&ed through all France,, 
is entirety owing 'to the fame caufe- 



14 The Gentleman's Guide 


From London U Calais. 

TJPON 'Change every day is to be met 
with the mafter of a French trader ; 
whofe price to Calais, Dunkirk, or ^Bou- 
logne, is only a guinea each j/aflenger ; 
the paflage is commonly made jp.fixteen, 
or twenty hours : this fcheme is niore 
commendable than going to Dover: 
where,/ ihould you chance to be wind- 
bound, it will coft you at leaft half a 
guinea a day ; liowever, that you may 
take your choice, I lhall here give ' an 
account of the different method pf per- 
forming this journey, either by pofF/ or 
in the Dover machine, which lets out 
from the Golden Crofs, at Charing-Crofs ; 
and another from the Crofs-Keys . and 
Spread Eagle, in Gracechurch-ftreet .': the 
fare for each paflenger is twenty /hillings \ 
and the journey is performed in one day •, 
the diftance from London to Dover is 
feventy-two miles. 

If you rather chufe to travel poft y I 
muft alfo inform you, that unlefs you go- 
to the Marquis of Granby's Head, at 
Dartford, you will be compelled to pay a 


in his Tour through France. 15 for, your poll chaifej^but 
if you take that tnri firft, their driver will 
. » condu& iyfeu * to the proper hbtrfes 
throughout, to avoid that* firft impofition. 
The Ship Inn upon the quay at Dover* 
is the belt ' and moft reafonat>le houfe ; 
the landlady, Mrs.- Jones, being admi- 
rably cut out for the great ihare of Bufi- 
: nefs (he has from ftraiigert faffing be- 
tween the two' kingdom^ lJ *--"•' ; ' 

The paflage in the packetj frOmDover 

to Calais, ia*only half-a-guinea each per- 

ion-, thediftancel>eingno ifiOre'than twen- 

: ty-one-mitis : the hire of & whole vefiel to 

». . yourfelf, is precifely the fame frbfri Dbver 

. to Boulogne as from Doveii^to Calais, five 

- guineas ; and by going to B6ulogne, in- 

,. ftead of Calais, you willfave theexpence 

, -of travelling twenty-four miles by land. 

Moft of the Dover packet-boats are the 

property of one* man, or one fet of men - r 

; by which means they endeavour to keep 

up the prictf to five guineas : however, 

there are one or two bye-boats that wilt 

carry you over for three guineas; but 

. thefe cannot always be procured! 

When a gentleman hires a packet- 
boat from Dover to Calais, Jet him infift 
u upon* being carried irtto the harbour in 
the fhip, without paying the leaft regard 


\6 The Gentleman's Guide 

to the reprefentations of the matter $ whei* 
he tells you it is low water, or the wind 
is in your teeth, fay, you will" ftay on 
* board till it is high water, of the wind 
comes favourable ; and if he fees you re- 
folutc, he will find means to bring the 
fhip into the harbour, or at leaft to con- 
vince you, that it abiblutely is not in his 
power* L mention this, becauie nothing, 
is fb great a deception to people unufed ' 
to obje&s from the fea* as the diftancc it 
is to high land \ and the boatmen wilL 
demand almoft as much for rowing you to 
fhore as you gave for your whole paftagp. 

I fhall fuppofe you now landed at Ca- 
lais, your trunk fearched at the Bureau,, 
and lodged at either the Silver Lion,. 
Hotel d'Anglejterrc, or Table Royal ; ex- 
travagant houles all L therefore let your 
ftay in this town be as fhort as poflTble ; 
walk round the rampants * and when you. 
have examined the Fortifications,, (which 
you may do without interruption, if you? 
have a cockade in your hat,.) you will 
have feen every thing worthy a* Granger's. * 

The SNIP which is prefixed to this 

book,. <U accurately engraved from the t 

beft authorities, fhews the rout of the 

poft roads of the kingdom of France,, 

. *m and 

in his $qw through France. 1 7 

and will inform you with great exa&nefs, 
throughout the kingdom, the names of 
every town and village you go through, , 
and the diftance it is from Paris. 

In your walks buy le nouvcau voyage de 
France * that is, " The new voyage of 
France ;" it is in two pocket volumes, 
and will coft you only five livres* thefe 
books are extremely neceffary and enter- 
taining upon the road, as they furnifh 
maps of every i&yt you can take, and are 
eiflentiaily ufeful in the towns, as they 
will point out to you their curiosities, 
Situations, manufactures, number of the 
inhabitants, /and . every thing eife you 
could wifh to learn, without afking a 
fingle queftion, ; 

The price i$ fixed for theporters who 
carry ypyr baggage to the ctSftom-houle^ 
or your inn, a£ fix-pence each' parcel* 
which, whether 200 weight or ten pounds, 
is cxa&ly the fame* 

Pofting is much more eafy, convenient 
and reafonable* upon a juft comparifbn 
of all circumftances, in England th*n in 
France. The Englifti carriages, ; horfes, 
harnefs, and roads* are better; and the 
poftilions more obliging and alert ; the 
reafon is plain and obvious; if I am ill 
ujed in England, I can be accommodated 


1 8 The Gentleman's Guide 

cllewhere ; burin France the poft is mo- 
nopolized, and the poftmafters and dri- 
vers knowing the traveller depends en- . 
tirely on them, are more negligent, and 
more encouraged to infolence and impofi- 
tion ; nor can you have any.rfcdrefs, ex- 
cept by a.formal'complaint to the compt- 
roller of thepofts, who is generally one 
of the miniftennof ftate, and pays little 
or do regard to any fuch Yepreientations : 
another inconvenience' that Attends? poll- 
ing in France is, that if you are retarded 
by any accident^ you cannot in many 
.parts of . the* kingd^n* find "a 'lodging, 
without perhaps travelling two 'or three 
. pofts farther than vou would chufe to go, 
*" to the prejudice Or your health, and even 
danger of your life * whereas, on any 
part of the poft road in England, you 
"willmeotwithigobd accdmttiodatibn at 
; evpry ftage.i. : ■ - - * *' ,; r -[' '* ' 
ni. The poffc-houfes on this road only find 
you horfes> fo yofrmuft httfc!Vchalfe at 
; Calais ttf carry you td Paris; the price 
is from two guineas and an half,* to three 
guineas,^ • according to thefr goodnefsf. 

;The Preach poft chaifefe hive only two 

wheels ; and .when one* pierfon is in them, 

mud have two horfes ;"hhd if two people, 

they muft have three, * 


in his Tour through France. 19 
Wh<?n the , carriage, has four wheels* 
there muft be four horfes and two dri- 
vers ; /but in cafe there fhould be three 
perfons in it, ?ou ate charged at the rate 
of five horfes; and4f four perfons, you 
muft have fix. If a perfon extra Is in the 
carriage, or a fervant behind, ypu^are ob- 
liged to pay at tY^ Hie Mont, Jfeibrfe (25 
fols) for every fuch v pertbh ; . . ft will fome- 
times happen, when feyeral chaifes have; 
gone the lama road before you * that the 
poft-houfes cannol fbppfy'yoii witfi all the 
Jiorf^s you require, andrather than wait 
'for the^etum ofi wearied horfes, j^ou ga 
on to the next fl*ag£ withoi)t ir your full 
number; yet in tnaf cafe "yoy are obliged 
to pay for the whole number prefcribed in 
the ordonnance. The price of eikh horfe 
is twenty-five fols for each 1 poft; " and five 

" ftfls;4s* the pay fixed by the ordonnance 
*fof eaHj ^drvkr 9 though it is ufual to give 
them- ten fols;* urilefe they 'flSifbehave* 
There, are a fcw Poftes Roy ales/* 3iz. at 

* Paris, r yjerfaiUes, : Lypnsv aadat all other 
places wherever the king is, and during 
the time t£e co^rt is held there';' at thefe 
pofts you always pxf d&ubleV \both at 

.* entering and going* out, ', . ./ [{[ '*, 

f Fr&m Calais to Parii is thirty-two ^ofts, 
and the bit is a royal one, which makes 

^ « - » it 


20 ' The Gentleman's Guide 

it at the rate of thirty-three ; but to make 
it more familiar, I give you aft example 
of the expences of going poft from Cafait 
to P^ris, 

For one pcrfon, two 
horfes (to fols) and 
driver (lofela) 33 

pofts, at 3 lima •" * 

per poft ■■■■■■ ■■ jy 
Hire of a chaife 3 
Jbuis-d'ors, or — 72 

7. /• dt> - * 

171 lirrw, or 7 9 7| 
For two peribns, 3 1 > 

horfes (75 fols) and ^ - 

driver (10 fob) at 
,4 litres 10 fob per liv. fols 
poft —j — — r 140.5 
Hire of a poft chaife 7* 

— — — /, /. d. 
211 5 or 9 5 8£iterlirjg- 

But irr Cafe you ffiould Jmng aver an 
EngKfh chaife, it having four wheels, the 
expences would encreale : viz. 

For twojfetfoiis (if only one in a car- 
riage with four wheels, it is the fame) 
4 horfes (5 livres) % drivers (1 livre) L > s. d. 
at 6 livres per poft 198 livres or — 7 13 i| 

Hating the nfc of the chaife at — * $ 3 

10 16 if 


in his 'four through France. 2 1 
The difference occafionecU by four 
wheels, which appears but. trifling in this 
inftance, will, however, in going From 
Calais to Marfeilles, arife to a confider- 
able fum, :&g will more readily appear, 
when you confider that the diftance is 
about one hundred and forty polls, in- 
cluding the royal pofts ; and therefore 
two perfons in the poft chaife muft have 
one hundred and forty additional horfes, 
and as many drivers > but if you fhould 
be alone, you will have the fame num- 
ber of drivers, and double that ©umber 
of horfes /extraordinary to pay for. 

If you rather chufe to ride poft onhorfe- 
back, at your return to the inn, enquire 
if there is any company going to Paris; 
who, without the leaft ceremony, you 
fliouldwait on, ofwhatfoever nation they 
may be, and tell them you would be "glad 
to join compahy with them : this may ap- 
pear ftrange to an Englishman ; but it i$." 
what is pra&ifed in France every day : 
by this method of afting, you will "have 
only one horfc to pay for ; which, of 
courfe, will fave you one half of your ex- 
pences ; ocherwife, you muft take a guide, 
with you. 

Thete is what they call a ftage coach 
from Calais to Paris -, by which you may 

* fend 

a 2 Xkc Gentleman* s Guide 

fend your trunk; but by no means think 
of entering into this difingenious French 
invention, which is more like to Noah's 
Ark, than any thing elfe I can compare 
it, and is feven days on its journey to 


From Calais to Paris.. 

Pojt Road from Calais, to Paris, through 
Abbeville. 33 Pojlf. 

Calais t Pofts. , . , " 

Hautbiuflbn " > *— 1 

Marquife — — 1 * j 

Boulogne -— — i-J- Red Lion, good 

Samers — ,— i-^ eating, and beds. 

Cormont — -f- 1 . . 

MontreuU — — *. i^ Very good ac- 

Nampont — > • — i-J. commodation. 

Bernay — —- — •, 1 - 

Nouvion " — ' -^ . 1 , 

Abbeville^ — -^.'.' \^ ByllrVheadv'a 

Ailly lehautClocher 14- good inn, 

Flixcourt : — *— r ji. , V-- ; , 

Pequigny _ ^ .1 

Amiens — *— 1 4 Due de Bourbon, 

Hebecourt — — 1 bell inn. 

• Fleurs 

in his Tour through. France. 2 j- 
. Polls. 
Fleurs — — 
Breteuil" — — -. 
Wavigny -— — 
S. juft - — 
Clermont -r- — - 

Longucville — 
Chantilly -7 
Luzarchp — — 
Ecouen — -— 

St. Denis 

Paris — — Poll Royal 


Tolerable accom- 
modation, but 
very dear. 

Should you let out in the morning, you 

will breakfaft at {toutogfte, an antient, 

dirty fea-port town ; butTif you have any 

1 time, vilit the ♦ citadel, or high town, which 

* is all that's worthy your obfervation. . 

5fou will dine at Afyfre YJlle. fituated 
on an eminence ; a neat, pretty town, and .- 
not Far dillant from the lea; well inha- 
bited by ^Qple r- ofjfejbio^ ; and every 
kind of provifion extremely cheap, but/ 
by no means^ calculated for an Englifh-; 
man to refide at, who would learn the 
French language with any corre&nefs .jf 
as it is the mol l corrup tly fpofceii there. 
Thepafling Montreu il (which is at a few 
miles dillance, andTituated on a lofty 
hill) fhould remind us of the memorable 


24 The Gentleman's Guide 

a&ions of our great countryman the duke 
of Marlborough ; who, notwithstanding 
the whole country round it was laid under 
water, (which they can do upon a flood- 
tide by fluices that have a communica- 
tion with the fea,) yet found means to 
bribe the governor \ who, in pafllve obe- 
- dience, ordered the fluices to be opened 
in the night upon the ebb ; and in the 
morning that experienced general was fn 
pofleflion of the out-works ; and in a few 
days after, mafter of the town : however, 
the governor was not fuipected ; and all 
would have been well, had not the duke 
imprudently (in an amorous fit, I fup- 
pofc) revealed that important fecret to 
Sarah his dutcheft, who fet it a going, 
and on it went, till it reached the .ears of 
Louis XIV. who ordered the governor 
a reward due to his infidelity. 

As I advifed you not to take up your 
abode at Abbeville, on account Qf the 
infufferable jargon fpoke there •, let me 
point out to you for that purpofe, Amiefl fr 
the capital of Picardie •, at which' plac^ 
you will arrive the next day : this is a 
clean, though antient town, very difagree- 
able in the autumn, or in winter, as it 
I rains moft of that time : but, in the ipring 
{and fummer, there are few pleafanter 


in his Tour IJirottgh Trarice. 25 
towns in all France. It is ficuated on the 
banks of the river Somme, in the midlt 
of a mod beautiful, fertile, and extenfive 
plain, abounding with game, which you 
are at liberty to purfae whenever you 
pleafe ; as 1 imagine you have paid your 
compliments to the principal officers as 
before diredted. 

The ramparts all round the town af- 
ford molt delightful walks •, as do feveral 
of the outlets; and there are frequent 
amufements upon the water in fummer, 
and abundance of genteel company refide 
there ; always a battalion of infantry, and 
a detachment of the king's body-guards. 
There is generally a concert once a week, 
which is open to all ftrangers •, and they 
have a mall as genteely frequented as any 
of the walks at Paris. 

There is a French perlbn whofe name 
is Goafoong, or Gofhong, as the Englifh 
pronounce it, that lives near the cathe- 
dral, who takes in boarders at 600 livres, 
twenty-five guineas per annum, and has 
moft commonly fome Parifian gentle- 
men, of whom (if you are not idle) you 
may eafily learn the true French accent. 
I mention this, as fome might not chufc 
to mefs with the French officers. 

C Whcrcr 

26 The Gentleman 9 s Guide 

Wherefore, any gentleman who. wants 
to get hold of the French language, be- 
fore he goes to Paris, cannot (in my opi- 
nion) do better, than fpend at leaft fix 
months in this town, as it is little, fre- 
quented by the Engliih ; (except in pair- 
ing) who, when they get together (as at 
Paris,) will naturally fpeak their own mo-. 
ther tongue ; confequently prevent their 
attaining the French language. You may 
t here get a monk to corqe morning and 
evening to Jnftruft _y.cai.ipr half^a-guinea 
i a month •, and for the fame price you 
/will be moll pleafijigly accommodated 
(with a chamber near the cathedral, which 
is the genteeleft quarter of the town : you 
will be furnifhed with a fervant for twen- 
ty-four fols, that is, a {hilli ng a d ay, who 
finds himfelf lodging, and all other ne- 
ceflaries : however, fhould you not chance 
to make any ftay at Amiens, you ought 
by all means to vifit the Chateau d'eau, 
that is the water caftle, and the cathedral ; 
the latter was b uilt by the Eng liih in the 
Gothic tafte, and is, by much, the moft 
fuperb edifice of the kind that I faw 
throughout France. 

This town is thirty leagues from Paris, 
thirty-on? from Cakis ; has fourteen 
churches, and is fuppofed to contain 



in his Your through JPrahce. ^7 
30,600 inhabitants, It is extremely com* 
mercial, on account of the vaft manufac- 
tories carried on there in the woollen -w^ty* 
fuch as plufties, cambists, forges* &<:.- 

There is no town of any conlequencc 
between Amiens and Paris, though it is 
well worth your while to (top at Chgnti^% 
and vifit the palace, park, and gardens 
flf the prince of CQn&u which, to examine 
with care,: will take you up a $ay ; ^hc 
ftables are magnificent beyond defcrip- 
tion •, and the whole will open to yoyi 
new fcenes of pleafures every moment : if 
the prince foould .be there, it will be no 
manner of hindrance to your feeing them, 
as his affability makes him extremely 
polite on thefe occafion$. 

You will frequently fee in the road, 
feveral miles diftant from this terreftrial 
paradife, hares, partridges, andpheafants, 
enjoying, with the moft undaunted affuy- 
•ance, the happy protection x)f this, abfq- 
lute prince •, for. to kill any of them, is 
jio lefs than perpetual .flavery to tfje 

From this place you will pafs through 
St^Qteois, which is the burial-place of 
the royal family ; and where all the jewqjs 
of the crown are depofited • but as it is 
within two leagues of Paris, it will not 
C % be 

** The Gentleman's Guide 

be neceffary to ftop, as you may make it 

an agreeable day's recreation, during 

your refidence in the metropolis of all 

France, where you are now conduced 


S E C T. IV. 

From Calais to Paris, by Way d/LiSLE, 
through Dunkirk and Yprbs : 38 Pofis. 

Calais •— — 


Gravelines — 


^Dunkirk — — 

. 2 The White Hart. 

Bergues — — 

• 1 

Roxbrugh — 


Poperigne — 


Ypres — — ' 


Varneton — ■ — 


• Lisle — — • 

2 Hotel de Bourboii. 

Carvin — — 


Lens — — 


Arras — — 






Peronne — 


Marche lc Pot 

I T 

^Fonches — 


Roye — — 


Conchy lesPots 



in His Tour thrdugh France* 29 

' Cuvilly — — 1 
Gournay — — i» 
Bois de Liheu -•» 1 
Pont St. Maixence - 1 ~ 
Senlis* —~ .— — !,£■ 
La Chapelle — — 1 

Louvres — if 

Bourget — — — if 

Part* Poft-Royal; 

, From Calais to Lifle by this rout) it U 
thirteen, pods,, 

Dunkirk is the capital of a fine fruit? 
ful territory, and a place of good trade, 
being a free port; its fortifications coft 
Louis XIV, immenfe fums of money, 
but are now deftroying, agreeable to the 
laft treaty of peace. . As axitizen of tha 
world, it would grieve one to fee fo fine 
an harbour deftroyed ; as Engli(hmen, it 
ought to raife very oppofite reflexions* 
The town is neatly built, the ftreets large, 
regular, and well paved : the town-houfc 
is a good.building, over-againft which is 
the Jefuits church, with its college, which 
is worth feeing; the principal church, 
dedicated to St. John, nas a very ' hand-r 
fome choir, and fifteen chapels, among 
which, that dedicated to $t. George, is 
C 3 remark* 

** * . -JbMtitt ^*&mM'^.HX*-i**: -**"* — ~~ --^a=s=: 

g& The Gentleman's Guide 

remarkable for an excellent pifture of 
this faint, by Rubens. Here are abun- ' 
dance of religious houfes ; and, among the 
reft, two Englifh nunneries : the othef 
things worth notice, are the arfenal, the 
cafemes for the garriforr, magazines, and 
mathematical fchool. Towards the canal 
are very pleafant walks, witha mall, well 
planted with trees. The White Hart is 
the beft inn in this town, and is kept by 
an Englifhmanj but, above all others, 
avoid the Conciergerie, kept by orte Wal- 
bough, where you will be fubjedt to the 
higheft impofition, though you will meet 
with very indifferent entertainment. 

Bergltes is a fmall town, but indiffe* 
rently built, and the ftreets very irregu- 
lar : it contains feven churches, and a 
college of Jefuits 5 but nothing remark- 
able; ' 

Ypres, fituated in the Auftrian Ne- 
therlands, is a large town, regularly for- 
tified, having the advantage of fluices, by 
which it can lay the neighbouring country 
binder water. The ftreets are, in general, 
broad, and well paved ; and the market- 
place, the largeft in Flanders, and fur* 
rounded with piazzas : in the middle is a 
fine fountain erefted by Louis XIV. The 
c thedral is a noble Gothic building; 


^W^^KS^F ^» 


in Ms Tour through France. 3 1 
the fide altars are all encompafled* with 
pillars of brafs ; the choir is noble, and 
the painting exceeding good : the Jefuits 
have a handibme college and church here-, 
pn the altar of the chapel is a pifture of 
the refurre&ion, admirably executed. The 
town-houfe* which was built for a ftaple 
hall for Englifh wool r is of ftone, fix 
hundred feet in front, and adorned with 
the ftatues of the dukes of Brabant, and 
fcarkof Flandm : it has a very hand- 
fome tower, in which the archives of the 
town 1 are kept, The trade of this place 
Cohfifts in the filk and woollen manufac- 
tory, but chiefly iri'linen, which they fend 
to Holland to be bleached •, whence, in 
foreign markets, it obtains the name of 

♦ ■ Lisle, fe\fr cities in Europe furpaft 
this for its fituatfcm, regularity of it* 
ftreets and fortifications : whence it is ge* 
nerally called Little Paris. The market- 
place, from/ whence all the great ftreets 
fun, is divided into tw© by a fine Ex- 
change^ bulk after rite manner of that of 
Lohdftn, With foulr gatts, from which yoli 
go into the "market-place : the ftreet 
called La Rue Royale, is one of the 
longeft, ftraighteft, and moft uniform in 
Europe* extending- from the market- 
place to the citadel, near aa Englifh mile. 
C 4 . There 

$i . tin Gentleman's Guide 

There are fcveral fquares furrounded with 
handfome houfes ; particularly that of the 
Mint : the principal church is dedicated 
to St. Stephen ; the choir is very fine : in 
the chapel of Notre Dame de la Trielle, 
is the tomb of Lewis earl of Flanders, 
remarkable for feveral brafs ftatues of 
divers princes of this family. The 
church of Sc. Catherine is worth feeing, 
the tabernacle and front being efteemed 
by the curious. The college of St. Mau- 
rice is worth taking notice of for the 
magnificence of the great altar, and it* 
fine marble pulpit : the paintings of the 
chapel of St. Druon are the fined in this 
city. The number of churches in this 
town arc fifty, moft of which deferve your 
attention. Here is alfo a munificent . 
hofpital, and an indifferent theatre, but 
fomegood comic aftors: hackney coaches 
ply here as in London, at half the price, 
and much better carriages. The garri- 
fon, even in time of peace, confifts of 
10,000 men. The Diligence fets out 
from this place for Paris in two days ; 
the price for each pafTenger is about fifty 
livres, for which the coachman finds you 
in every thing during your journey. 

Lens, is a fmall town in the French 
Netherlands, about eight miles north of 


in his Tour through France. $ $ 

Arras, which contains nothing remark-? 
able. It was formerly well fortified, but 
has been fince difmantled. 

Arras, one of the moft antient cities 
of the Low Countries, , being the Roman 
Atrebatum, is a large populous town, 
fituated on the river Scarpe, upon a hill : 
it is divided into two pans, one of which 
is called the Town, and is the largeft * : 
and the other the City.: they arc both* 
well fortified, being farrounded with a 
•ftrong wall, with high ramparts* two 
large ditches,, and a citadel, repaired by 
the celebrated Vauban. The town is in \ 
general well built, theftreets broad, and 
the market-places . fpacious ; . the. Great 
market-place is of a great length; and the 
houfes built with< piazzas like thofe in 
Covent-Garden. . Iitithe Little market- 
place adjoining, ftands the Town-houfe, . 
a magnificent building. The churches 
and chapels in. this city are above an 
Ifundfred, feme of which are worth fee- 
ing, particularly that of the barefooted' 
Carmelicesi The cathedral is fituated in 
that part called the< City •, it is anold Go- 
thic building.; .on the. fteeple. is a clock 
with little brafs ftatues that ftrike the bell 
every hour: the church is adorned with 
chapels and altars of brafs and marble, 
v C 5 and 

34 yfo Gentleman 9 s Guide 

and fine fculptures .and paintings. Heie 
is -kept, in a filver caie, enriched with 
pearls and diamonds, a kind of manna 
which looks like wool, that they fay fell 
from heaven in 371, in the time of a 
great drought, and is now carried in pro- 
ccffion whenever they want rain : but the 
greateft beauty of Arras is the royal ab* 
bey of St. Vedaft, whofe revenue amount* 
to 20,000 crowns a year. This abbey i$ 
truly a royal palace, and the church one 
of the fineft in the Netherlands, for the 
beautiful feats of the monks, the piftures. 
on the altars, and the noble cupola on 
the top, or for the fine tomb* of kings, 
and princes buried here : among other 
monuments is that of Theodoric, one of 
the firft kings of France, who died in 
690. This town carries on a good trade 
in both linen and woollen manufa&ures * 
but is chiefly famous for its tapeftry > 
which art was firft invented here. 

Peronne, a large populous town* 
"fituated on the north bank of the river 
Somme, is one of the keys of the king*- 
dom, being very ftrong by art as well a* 
nature : it contains, three churches, a 
collegiate one, and a college, neither of* 
which aie worth a traveller's remarking. 


in his Tour through leaner. j£ 
Senlis* anciently called Sylvanedtum,. 
fituated on the fide of a hill, at the foot 
of which runs the little river Nannette, 
has feme old fortifications, feven parochiaL 
and two collegiate churches. Here are 
the ruins of an old cattle,' and fome other 
-buildings, which are fuppofed to be thfc 
work of the ancient Romans. In the 
neighboiirhood 6f this town are feverai 
fine feats : viz. Chantilly, belonging to 
the prince de Conde, remarkable for its 
magnificent ftables, parks and gardens - y 
a particular account of which will be 
given in another place, Liancourt, Ver- 
neuil, Anet, Dreux, &c. 

There is alfo another Road to Lisle, thro* 
St. Omer's, which is the near eft ^ being 
only eleven Pofts and an half. 

Calais / — 


— . 


Ardres — 


— — 


St. Outer's 

_. - 

' 2-T 

Cartel — 




Bailkul — 






— . 


Liile — ■• - 

— 2 

In all, fixty-nine miles. Engliih, or 
thirty-three leagues. 



.-- ■ •*-•• 

3$ The Gentleman's Guide 

If not agreeable to travel poft, you may" 
go ia the ftage from Calais to Dunkirk 
for fifty fous each paflenger^ and from 
Dunkirk to Liflr, there is. a ftage eveiy 

You may alfo v if yqu pleafe,go b y wafen 
CO or from St. Omer, Dunkirk, Bergues*. 
or Ypres» by the canal o£ Calais* The 
pafiage from Calais to* St. Omer's, is 
twenty-four fols each. The boat fets out 
every morning at nine o'clock.. 

Ardres, a fmail fortified town, de-r 
lightfully Otuatedon a hill* in the middle 
of a plain : one of the baftions is called 
De Banquet, on account of its being ths 
place where a king of France and a king, 
txf England were entertained. 

St. Omer's, fuuated on.the river Aa^„ 
in the province of.Artois, is a large po- 
pulous town, very ftrong by nature and 
art. The (treets are long. and fpacious y 
the cathedral, an old Gothic building, is a 
very beautiful one : there are a great 
many religious houfes •, that of .the Jefuits 
is an handfonoe ftrudlure; it. con fills of 
two large fquares, and is .equal to any of 
the colleges atOxford : but ihe.principal 
beauty of this place, is the magnificent 
Abbey of St. Bextin* which is* a fine piece 


of archite&ure : the church is very beau- 
tiful ; and from the tpp of thfe ftecplc on. 
a clear day, the coaft of England may be 
foeru Near this towa is a fpacious lake 
full of floating. iflands*. which in fummer 
affopd a delicious profpeft. This towa 
carries on a go£d trade by means of a 
navigable canal cut from hence to Grave* 
lines, which communicates with the fea. 

Cassel, is a fmall town, lituated on 
the higheft, if not, perhaps, the only 
mountain in Flanders* and feems, as u 
intended b^Nature as a fpecula to furvey 
the very extenfive flat country, and pro4 
fpeft, that is every way to be feen as fa* 
as the -eye can reach y .and as beautiful as 
the imagination caiuconceive; above thirty 

j fortified towns, the- Britifh channel, and. 

, yen ppy er> raftfc being included in this 
view. This delightful profpeft is all that 
is worth viewing itv this town-. 

Armentieres, a large town, four 
leagues diftant from Lifle, contains no* 
thing particular, and is . remarkable only 
for having a. number of large dogsfo* 
longing to the garrHbn, wfiich are turned 
Joofe every night, and are faid to poflefs 
a remarkable degree of fagacity in difco* 
lsering ftrangers; from the inhabitants. ' 

. sec T* 

$» The Gentleman's GuiH 

gu&r, and the ftreets infufferably narrow 
and* dirty. They 1 ' count' thirty-fever* 
parifhesj forty convents, feven for men,- 
and twenty ^threr for women \ five hofpi- 
tals, and forty public fountains. There 
wc- three vlmail rivers which run' through 
the town; one of which is much fre* 
quented by frogs, though one would ima- 
gine, that in, time, they would be de-~ 
ftroyed, as they commonly compoii a 
difli or two, at each meal, at the tables of 
both rich and poor ; the latter moftly liv- - 
ing on-them. 

. The cathedrals,. St. Ouen, and St. Ma- 
rlon, are as magnificent churches as France 
can produce, and contain many fine paint-* 
ings, and Roman antiquities; among 
which are the tombs of feveral kingsj - 
bifhops, and oris. The heart of Charles 
V. is in a lcpulchre of beautiful black, 
and white marble, and enriched with arr 
infinity of curious ornaments : alfo thofe 
of Henry III. and RichardT. kings of 
England, and dukes of Normandy, which 
are placed on each fide of the grand altar 
piece. There is in this church a large 
library, which is open to the public, ex-^ 
cept on faints days, and Sundays : in the 
front there is a large fquare, with a hand- 
feme fountain* Along the river there, is 

' in Ms^our through France. 4* 
a beautiful quay; with a fine walk •, at the 
beginning of this quay (lands an old caftle, 
laid to have been built by our Henry V. 
flanked with eight round large towers, 
and ftrong walls, defended with deep 
ditches full of water* Here you fee 
the Cuftom-houfe, and an handfome Ex- 
change, where the merchants meet. But 
the greateft curfofity, is the beautiful 
bridge of boats which rifes and falls with 
the tide •, is paved with floras, and opens 
for the paflage of large veflels* contrived 
by Nichal BougeQis,-*an-Auguftine friar. 
Travellers fhould not omifc feeing the 
Squaxfe aux Vaux,t where- the famous Joaft 
d'Arc, named the Maid of Orkans, was 
burnt for a witch, and where the French 
have ere&ed a-ftatu6 toher memory. At 
the houfe of, the procureur-general, are to 
be feen the fine baflb relieve^ in marble* 
reprefenting the magnificent interviews 
between Henry VIII. and Francis I. 
, The corporation of Route confifts of 
a mayor and fix aldermen. 1 the mayor is 
ele&ed every three years. 

The neighbourhood of this city is ex^- 
tremely pleafant ; and there is a moll de^- 
lightful profpe<5l from a mountain called 
St- Catherine's HUK 

• -' * \ ~' - " '- . i 

42 the Gentleman's Guide 

Poft Road from Rouen to Paris, h/ 
Mantjs. i 6 Pojts* 



Rouen **- — - 



-Port St. Ouen 

— . 


Vaudreuil — 



Gaillon ~ 



.Vernon — 



Jtannierts /*— * 



Jftfante .-*- -~. 

, ~— 


Meulan — — 

-: — 

r ll' 1 




fit. Germaias 


'2 F 

Pari* . *•+ ** 

k. • mm 

Poft Royal. 

Gavllov; a fmall country town, neat 
^rhichrtfae archbifhop of Rouen has & fine 
palace : it is^fituaoed ion a very high hilU 
and commands a deMghtfdl profpeft for 

many miles. . iThis palace was built bf 
cardinal Amboife, arahbfthop of Riuen, 
and is rechotiedrone 6f .the mofr magni- 
ficent feats in Ftancei- »!Mot far! from 
thence is ja famous' Cartbttfiah monaftery, 
over the door of which is written, Char^ 
Yrtufe B/nrbvn&ZrGailkn ; it is a 'magni- 
ficent ftone building ; the library, the 
church, the treafury, and the large monu- 
T \ ment 

in his four ihrough France. 43. 

ment of the family of Soiflbns-Bourbon* 
deferve particular notice. 

Vernon, a finall town, fituated on the 
Seine, in a very agreeable valley, in the 
diocefe of Evreux. It has anhofpital for 
the poor, a collegiate church,, feveral con- 
vents, and a bailiwick. The caftle* 
which is very antient, has a tower of free* 
ftone, of a very extraordinary heighth. 
Many Englilh families refide in this town*, 
on account of its che*pnef9* and pleafant 
fituation. . ■- 

Mante, a fmall town* 4a-&e province* 
of the ifle of France? is fituated on the 
river Seine, which forms abundance df 
litt'e iflands hereabouts. The town is 
indifferently .built; but remarkable for a 
fine ftoae bridge over the Seine, of thfrty4 
nine arches, and a handfome monaftery 
of Celeftins. There is a little hill, within 
thejurifdi6tion of this city, that produce? 
the beft wine in France. 

St. Germains, is about twelvfe miles 
diftant from Paris, fituated on a very 
high mountain, commands a moft exten- 
sive and delightful profpeft ; and may be 
confidered to Paris, what Richmond is to 
London. Near this town, in the road 
to Paris, is the famous machine for raifmg 


44 * tt* Gehtkmatts Guide' '■ 

prater for the ufe of thq king's gardens at 

Poft Road from Rouen to Paris by Pon- 
toise. j 5 Pofts and an half. 



Rouen — — • — 


La Forge Foret — 


IJourgbaudoin — — 


Ecouis *— — — 

2 > 

Tilliere — — ' — 

• I 

St* Clair • -* *— . — 


Magny . — • — — 


Bordeau de Vigny — 


Pontoifc - — .— 


Franconvill* — — - 


St. Denis — — . 

Poft Rayab 

There is alfo a Diligence from Rouea 
to Paris, and from Paris to Rouen : the 
fare is twelve livres each perfon ; but this 
is difagree&bly tedious. The cheapeft 
and, beft, method is by the Berlin j which 
goes, to Paris in two days: the price foe 
each paflenger is about a louis d'on.. 

Magny, a fmall town of the ifle of* 
France in the Vfexin Fraiifoife., The 
houfes are generally, well built, and thq 
jfifcreets regular. There is only one parifh 

church, t 

-7w~*S*£wilV; • -*w*K^^ -^r "T-'iJ 

in his Tour throughTFr&ncc. 45 
/church, which is dedicated to our lady • 
but they have fome convents of men and 
-women, and a good hofpital. The ad- 
jacent country produces a great deal of 
corn, in which the trade of the inhabi- 
tants chiefly confifts. 

- r Pontoise, is a town of the ifle of 
France : is fituated on the river Oyfe, 
upon the defcent of a hill, which extends 
f to the banks of the river. The towfo 
is commanded by a caftle,. in the outer 
court of which there is a collegiate church. 
Over the Oyfe there is a bridge of four- 
teen arches, from whence it takes its 
name of Pons ad Alfiam. It confifts only 
of two parifhes, but has feveral religious 
houfes, as the Cordeliers, the Carmelites, 
-the Urfelines, and the abbey of S. Martin^ 
which laft, as alfo the palace called the 
Vicariat, are worth feeing. The prin- 
cipal trade of the town is in corn, Which 
is brought hither from Picardy by tfifc 

Franconviljle : near this town ftands 
the famous nunnery of Maubuiflbn. 

St. Denis, a fmall town fituated in a 

'fmall plain, about fix miles north of Paris, 

receives its name from the magnificent 

abbey of Benediftins, founded here by 

Dagobert I. in 630, and is renwkabje for 


4$ The Gentkmats Guide 

being the burial-place of the royal famffjf 
of France, and containing the regalia of 
France, and a vaft number of other cu- 
riofities, as has been already obfervecL 
The treafury of this abbey is fuppofed to 
be the richeft in Europe, except the holy 
chapel of Loretto, and St. Mark at 

Dirtftions for travelling from Rouen to 
Paris by water. 

I Stage, p ROM Rouen to Port St. 
Ouen, you go by water for 
three fous each perfon. 

i Stage. From Port St. Ouen to Rouen, 
which is fifteen Englifh miles diftant, you 
have horfes for thirty fous each horfe. 

3 Stage. From Roule to Bonnieres, is 
•fifteen miles, which you go by water, and 

cofts ten fous each perfon. 

4 Stage. From the village of Bon- 
• nieres to Roboife, you have a mite and a 

half to walk, or yuu may. ride it for fifc 

5 Stage. From the village of Roboife 
t6 Poifiy, which is twenty-feven miles 


in Ms Tour throkgh Trance. 47 
diftance, you travel by water, all night ; 
the fare is no. more than ten fous each 
perfqn. . , 

6 Stage. A coach fets out every day 
at noon' from PoiiTy to Paris.- The ex- 
pence is no more than ten fous- each parf* 

ifenger. •,..•: 

N. B. Itat this way of travelling, you 
muft wait for the full number of paffen* 
gers, otherways . you muft pay yourfelf 
the full price of the boat. The whole 
journey, by this .method, is performed ia 
thirty-iix hours, : 

. 5 E C TV VI. 

A flioft Defcrtption of Paris. 

fTVHE firft; thing: to •Mtxa& your admiral 
lk)ii v is the curious workmanlhip of 
the beautiful gates, which form the. en-, 
trance of this gay city : :ti*ey were ere&ed 
as triuraphaiarchbs to. Lewis XIY* on his 
return frami'hiaiwifbJHiesL.i. 
. . <PSaria* rthe metropolis/ of JFrance; srof a 
taaictitar .form, ami divided :by thfc river 
5eineilm©ftiniW)Maqual parts: it is fitu- 
r// ated 

{ft the Gentleman* s Guide 

ated in the latitude of 48 degrees, 50 Ail 
north, being about 200 miles diftant from 
London. The air is fomewhat grofs, but 
generally efteemed healthy : it is counted 
to be 18 miles in circumference: however, 
the Parifians who have been in England, 
agree, that it is not fo extenfive as Lon- 
don •, and in my opinion, it wants at leaf): 
one third of being fo. The houfcs are 
generally built or hewn ftone, which is 
contiguous to the town ; and many of 
them fix or feven ftories high, with fafh 
windows. The royal palaces therein 
are four, (though the king, nor any of 
the royal family, ever refide in them,) 
viz. The Old Palace, the Louvre, the 
Thuilleries, and the Palace Royal. The 
Old Palace ferves, like Weftmmfter-hall, 
for a kind of exchange, where milliners, 
perfumers, bookfcllers, &c. keep their 
(hops, as well as to accommodate the courts 
of juftice. The Louvre is fituated in that 
part of Paris called the town, but was 
jiever finiflied, nor I believe ever will* 
according to the original defigns, which 
were grand beyond defcription. Our 
London Bethlem was built from the eaft 
front of the Louvre. The Thuilleries is 
another magnificent palace, and, as fome 
will have it, is part o* the Louvre* becaufe 


in his Tour through France, 49^ 

joined to it by a long gallery. The front of 
the Thuilleries is 326 yards long, having, 
on one fide, three fine courts, and on the 
other, beautiful gardens, in which all 
the quality and gentry walk, as they dp 
in the Mall at London. The Terras, 
which runs parallel to the river Seine, i$ 
efteemed one of the greateft ornaments to 
. thefe gardens, being 560 yards long, and 
28 broad, planted with two rows of {late- 
ly trees on each fide : from this walk 
there is a moft admirable prolped of the 
town, the river, and the whole country 

The Palace Royal ftands not far from 
the Louvre; was built by Cardinal Riche- 
lieu, and given by him to Louis XIV. 
but is now inhabited by the duke of Or- 
leans : it is plain without, but fine apart- 
ments within •, that for which it is ad- 
mirecj, is a gallery, which contains moft 
. of the illuftrjous peribnages that France 
■ has produced, drawn by .the greatest 
matters : Italy ha^ been fearched, and no 
expence fpared, to make the whole cora- 
# plete with pi&yres, bufts, ftatues, medals, 
' and other curiofities worthy of being xojU 

. The cathedral church (or Notre Dame 

as it is called) is fituated on a little ifland 

D on 

50 The Gtntltmaris Guide 

on the Seine, and is a majeftic Gothic 
ftru&ure: the greateft curiofity in this 
church is the altar-piece, compofed of the 
fineft Egyptian marble ; there is an image 
of the virgin Mary fitting in a mournful 
pofture at the foot of the crofs, with a 
dead Christ on her knees : on her right 
hand is the figure of Louis XIII. on his 
knees, cloathed in his royal robes, offer- 
ing his crown and fceptre to the virgin -, 
and on her left, Louis XIV. in the lame 

The hofpitals at Paris are twenty- 
eight in number, fome for poor, old, 
infirm people ; fome for foundlings, fome 
for orphans,' others for the mad, blind, 
vagrants, and incurables ; the four chief 
of which are called the Hofpital General, 
God's Hofpital, the .Hofpital of Charity, 
and the Hofpital for invalid Soldiers. 
The Hofpital General is a vaft pile of 
building, containing fix diftinft houfes ; 
one for poor old women and giris -, 
the fecond, for decayed families ; the 
third, for foundlings ; and the fourth, 
for lying-in women, beggars, vagrants, 
&c. In all the fix, >'tis faid there are 
frequently ten thoufand people. God's 
Hofpital is the oldeft in Paris •, and re- 
ceives all furts of people, whether natives 


in his Tour through France* 5 1 
or foreigners : it is fhamefully crouded, 
as I have feen three, and four in a bed, 
and perhaps each labouring under a diffe- 
rent diforder. 

The hofpital of Invalids, is. for wound- 
ed, or infirm officers and foldiers, and is 
by much the moil magnificent, being 
compofed of five handfome quadrangles, 
built of hewn ftone, of which, the middle 
one is the largeft-, they are furrounded 
with piazzas and galleries over them, 
which make a very noble appearance : in 
the hall where the foldiers eat, are painted 
all the battles and fieges of Louis XIV. 
There are ufually entertained in this hof- 
pital two hundred officers, and three thou- 
fand foldiers •, the officers lie two in a 
chamber, and the foldiers, fix ; but each 
have a feparate bed. 

Paris is fuppofcd to contain 22,000 
houfes, 979 ftreets, 52 parifhes, 130 con- 
vents for both fexes, which augment 
daily : near 20,000 coaches and 800,000 
fouls.' The civil government is diftri- 
buted amongft feveral courts of justice* 
of which the higheft is the parliament, 
which is divided into nine chambers, or 
houfes, and have their refpeftive branches 
of bufinels. Their principal manufac- 
tures are goid and filver filks, velvets, 
D 2 gold 

$2 "The Gentleman's Guide 

gold and filver lace, ribbons, tapeftry, 

linens, and glafs. 

Paris being walled in, the ramparts, 
more than half round the whole city, 
are adorned with four rows of ftately 
trees, in the center of which is a broad 
road for coaches, and on each fide very 
fine fhady walks. Upon thefc ramparts 
are to be feen, every fine evening, many 
of the people of fafhion in their coaches, 
which are often gaudy, but oftener truly 
elegant, and painted in a moft exquifite 
manner ; not with arms, crefi, or initial 
Utters, but with a variety of paftoral 
fcenes. On the margin of thefe walls are 
a great number of cofFee-houfes, and 
places of public entertainment, where are 
exhibited a variety of amufements, fome- 
thing in the way of Bartholomew-fair, but, 
you may imagine, better executed, by a 
people whole chara&eriftic it is, to laugh 
and be merry. The coflee-houfes, &c. 
are finely decorated, and in moft of them 
are muficians ; and there the Bourgeois, 
with their wives *and children, enjoy a 
little frefh air, and the view of the adjacent 
country, which is to be feen in great va- 
riety from the different parts of thefe 

S EC T. 


in his Tour through Fraficc. 53 


Quriofities worth feeing in Paris. 

*TpHE curiofities of Paris are as follows, 
which I fliall put down in French r as 
they will by that means, be eafieit found 

Lc Louvre. 

Le Cabinet des Tableaux du Roi. 

Le Cabinet des Livres du Roi. 

L'academie Franjoife. 

L'academie Roiale des belles Lettres. 

L'academic Roiale des Sciences. 

L'ac^demie Roialed'Architfefture. 

L'academie Roiale de Peinture, 
. Les Antiques du Roi. 

Le Garde Meuble du Roi. 

Le Palais des Th'uilleries, & les Jar* 

La grand Gallerie de Louvre* 

Le Cours de la Reine. 

La Manufacture Roiale de Savqnnerie. 

La Manufacture de Porcelaine a St 

L'Eglife de St. Germain Auxerrois. 

Le Palais Ro'ial, les Jardins, & les 

D 3 J/EgUfc 

54 fhe GtntUmatfs Guide 

L'Eglife St. Roch. 

Le Couvent des Jacobins reformer 

Le Couvent des Feuillans. 

L'Eglife des Capucins. 

L'Eglife des Filles de 1' Afibmption. 

La Place de Louis le Grand. 

Le Statue Equeitre du Roi Louis lc 

Le Couvent des Capucines. 

Le Tombeau de Monfieur de Crequi. 

Le Tombeau de Monfieur de Lornois.. 

La Bibliotheque Roialc, 

L'Hotel d'Antin. . 

La Place Viftoire. 

La Place Vendome. 

La Place de Louis le Quinze* 

La Place Roiale. 

L'Hotel de Thouloufe. 

Le Couvent des AuguftinsDechauffes*, 

L'Hotel des Fermes du Roi. 
• . L'Hotel de Soiffons. 

L'Eglife de St. Euftache. 

Lc Tombeau de Monfieur Colbert. 

* On the left hand going into this convent, ma- 
dame Pompadour is bqriedin afmall chapel, lined 
throughout with the choiceft marble that Italy 
could produce ; which, with many magnificent or- 
naments, coll the king ten thoufand pounds iler- 
ling, in honour of her memory. The nuns of this 
convent (to whom ft.e was always a kind beoe- 
faclrefs) -hold divine fervice three- times a week fbr 
the repofe of her foul. 


in his four through France. 5$ 

L'Hotel de Bourgogne. 

La Fontaine de St. Innocent. 

La Porte de St. Dennis. 

La Maifon de Pretres de la Maifon de 
St. Lazare. 

La Porte St. Martin. 

Le Couvent des Recolets. 

Le Temple. 

L'Hotel de Soubize. 

La Maifon D'amelot de BifcuJ. 

L'Abbaie Roiale de Val de Grace. 

L'Hoteide Ville: 

L'Obfervatoire Roiale. ; 

v L'Eglife de St. Gervais. 

Le Portail de St. Gervais. 

Le Tombeau de Chancellier de Tellier. 

La Maifon de Profefle des Jefuits* 
La Place Roiale. 

Le Couvent des Minimes. 

Le Couvent des Filles de la Vifitatior* 
de St. Marie. 

La Baftile. ' 

La Porte St. Antoine. 

La Manufacture des Glaces* 

L'arc de Triomphe. 

Le Couvent des Celeftins. 


L'Eglife de St, Paul. 

La Maifon du Prefident Lambert da 

La Maifon de Britton Villiers. 

P 4 L'Eglife 

$6 The Gentleman 9 s Guide 

L'Eglife de St. Louis. 

La Porte St. Bernard. 

L'Abbaie Rolale de Ste. Viftoirt. 

Le Jardin Rolal. 

Le Cabinet du Roi *. 

L'Hopital de Salpetriere. 

Les Gobelins, & la Tapiflerie. 

I/Eglife de St. Nicholas du Chardonet- 

L*Abbaie Roi'ale de Ste. Genevieve du 

Le Couvent des Mathurins. 

Le College Roial. 

Le College de Louis le Grand. 

Le Couvent des Carmelites. The mofe 
curious in Paris, and of which, order of 
nuns the queen is the prote&reft. 

Grand Autel de Val de Grace. 

Le Couvent des Chartteux. 

La Sorbonhe. , 
' Le Tortibeau da Cardinal de Richelieu* 

Le Palais de Thermes f. 

• The king's cabinet is open to be viewed every 

J Wednefday and Friday afternoon. 

/ f This is the only piece of Roman roiiw in Paris. 

/ It is fituated in La Rue de la Harpe. The in fide and 

f out fide of the walls are compoied of fix rows of fmall 

/ fquare ftones, and then four rows of flat thin and 

broad Roman bricks, alternatively, from the top to* 

' the bottom ; which makes it probable, it was built 

after Severus's time ; for, according to Vitrnvius, 

this was the flfrifiin niTiT)n*rfff ni i 1ri : rfc ; and, there* 

fore, might well be what tradition here fays of it, 

via. part of Julian the Emperor's palace or Thermae. 


in his Tour through France 57 

Grand Autcl de Notre Dame. 

La Maifon de St. Cofme, ou PEco!e 
de Chirurgerie. 

Les Reprefentations Anatomiques en 
Cire Coloree. 

Le Couvent des Cordeliers. 

L'Abbaie Roiale de St. Germain des 

L'Eglife de Notre Dame. 

Grand Autel de FAbbafe St. Germain. 

Le Palais de Luxembourg * \ and the 
pi&ures which are within PHotel de 

Le Couvent des Carmes dechauflez. 

L'Eglife de St. Sulpice. 

L'Hotel RoSal des Invalided 

Le grand Autel des Invalides. 

Le Tombeau du Cardinal Mazarin. 

Le Couvent du Noviciat des Jacobins 

Le Couvent des grands Auguftin*. 

L'Hotel de Conty. 

Le Couvent des Theatins. 

La Figure Equeftre du Roi Henry 

La Samaritaine fur le Pont Neufl 

La Bibliotheque des Avocats. 

9 The pictures in the Luxembourg Gallery are 
to be ieen every Wednefday and Friday af ternoon, 

D 5 L'Hotei 

$8 Tke Gentleman's Guide 

L'Hotel Dieu. 

L'Hopital des Enfans Trouves. 

La Communaute des Peintures & 

Lc Palais. 

La Cour des Aides* 

La St. Chapelle. 

La Chambre des Comptes. 

Les Ponts de Paris. 

Le College des quatre Nations ; which 
are France, Picardie, Normandie, and 
Germany : the Englifh formerly was 
termed the fourth nation,^ 'till by our ia- 
vafion« and vi&ories in France, we had 
rendered ourfejves odious, and, I may 
fay, terrible to them •, on which, they took 
down our arms, and put up thofe of the 
Germans in their room. 

Thefe, to the beft of my knowledge, 
are every thing within the walls of Paris 
that merit a ftraager's notice. 

1 would recommend it to every gentle- 
man, to put down in black and white, 
when he returns at night to his lodgings, 
all the obfervations he may have made 
during the day, as well as the informa- 
tions he may have received ; fuch notes 
will not only be extremely amufing to 
him, when m other countries, but will 
slfo be a fure means of imprinting the 


in Usfour through France. 59 
more lively ideas of them on bis mind : 
without fuch precaution, it is natural to 
fiippofe, that fuch variety of objefts, wi}l 
caufe the moll confufed notions, and in 
the end will totally obliterate the beauty 
of them from his memory. 


Public Entertainments of Paris, and their 
different Prices. 

'T 1 HER E are jhrpr rhrarrriLin Paris. •, 
that of the oggra in the palace of the 
Thuilleries ; that of . the French come- 
dians, in the Fauxbourg, St. Germain* * 
and that of the I talia n comedians, Rue 

The operas are performed four times, a 
week in winter - 9 Sundays, Tuefdays, 
Thurfdays, and. Saturdays v and three 
times a week in fummer. The price is/a 
piftole in the balconies, feven livres ten 
fols in the firft boxes and the amphitheatre, 
four livres in the fecond boxes, and forty 
fols in the pit. 

The decorations of this theatre are mag- 
nificent, and the fcenery beautiful, though 
f but little can be faid in favour of the 
finging and mufic. 

D* The 

€o The Gentleman's Guide 

The theatre of the French comedians 
h not large. They aft every day, except 
a fortnight before Eafter, and a week 
after. There is alfo a vacation at the 
theatre on the great feftivals. The price 
in the pit is twenty fols •, thirty fols in the 
third boxes-, forty fols in the fecond 
boxes ; four livres in the theatre, amphi- 
theatre, and firft lx)xes. 

The Italian comedy, is fo called, not 
becaufe it is afted in Italian, but for be- 
ing in t he Italian manner- The price is 
the fame as the French comedy. The 
days on which the beft pieces are per- 
formed, are Mondays, Thurfdays, Satur- 
days, aqd Sundays* The comic opera is 
alio performed at this theatre. 
- Tne beft days for the French comedy, 
arc Mondays, Wednefdays,. and Satur- 
.' days. 

Friday is the beft day for the French 
opera in fummer, and Saturday iti the 

There is alfo, during Lent, and on 
. high feftivals* an entertainment caUed the 
Concert Spirituel, fomething in the man- 
ner of our Oratorios. 

The gardens of the Thuilleries are fre- 
quented by the beft company in the ev«q- 

in 6 s ' 

. . Tbe 


in r his four thfwgh Prance, $* 
i The gardens of *he Palais Royal, by 
the beft company * from twelve at noon 
tillcfinner time. 

The Luxembourg gardens are moil 
frequented in an evening. 

The king's phyfic ..gardens are alfo al* 
ways open for company to walk in ; and 
there is a mount in thefe gardens which 
commands a fine view of Paris. 


-Rules for an EngU/hman*s laying out his 
. money in Pakis. 

T^HERE is nothing which a ftranger 
ought to be more careful of in Paris* 
particularly an Engliihman, than laying 
out his money, \ for he will never £0 to 
buy ^uiy thing, even of the moft trifling 
nature, in which they will not attempt to 
cheat him ; in cafual expences, particu- 
larly in buying; trinkets, .and fqch trifles, 
which one is often led into, I would, by all 
means, ad vife,jievcr to give more than one 
tiurd of what is afked \ in which cafe, one 
WiH generally pay a little more than the 
thing is worth •, nor mufi people mind the 
ihopk?epers letting them go away, for 
they will fometimes do that, in order to 
( che£t witjh more certainty another time* 
' When 

y €z The Gentleman's Guide 

When you go to buy expenfive toys, fuch 
as gold fnuff-boxes, watches, and trinkets 
for ladies, the bell way is to go to the 
hotel de Jabac, to which any one will di- 
reft you. Here the price of every thing 
is marked ; and every thing of the beft 
make. They will, even after you haVfe 
kept a toy a confiderable time, if you do 
not injure it, return you your money, or 
let you change it for any thing elfe* 
Things are not. cheap htrc, but you are 
fure of having them gpod. Thefe gene- 
ral directions, though with regard te 
.what feems trifles, will be found neceffary 
to be attended, to. 

We come next to. the great article of 
lodging and diet. With regard to the 
former, I would always advife a public 
hotel before a- private houfe, or Maifon 
Bourgeois. In*, the hotels, you • may have 
an apartment from twenty guineas' to one 
per month. The hotels you are to avoid, 
are all thofc, without exception, where 
they provide you with diet as well as 
lodgings, • unlefs they ke£p a daily public 
ordinary. At the hotels where they provide 
you with eating, the unreaforiablenefe of 
their charge is incredible, especially to the 
Englifh. If you will eat at your hotel, . 
rather than go to an ordinary, always fend 
to the traiteurs, and have your meals at lb 


in his *taur through Fmnce. €% 

much ah head ; fend for your wine to the 
merchants ; by this means, you will eat 
and drink fixty per cent, cheaper ; have 
greater variety ; the things will be of a 
better quality, and you will be more 
plentifully ferved. But if you are a fingle 
man, the beft way will be to go to one of 
the ordinaries, many of which are excel- 
lent •, and at thefe, for thirty -fix or forty 
fous, you will always meet goocf corif 
pany. But in a feparate place, the reader 
will find a catalogue of the beft hotels both 
for lodging and eating. 

All *h*4gi!ftrl frngKfl* ™*^ go m 
Paris kee£ a carriage ; and it feems moft 
neceflary, to regulate the expences of 
thofe who have moft money to fpend 
in this article, which is really, a ufeful 
one to thofe who can afford it. They 
fhould not give more than twelve guineas 
a month. They will make a demand up- 
on you for a fhillfng a day for the coach- 
man ; but this is a meer impofition upon 
a ftranger, and contrived between the 
mailer of the coach and your fervant, to 
whom he gives a fhilling a day:. take 
care therefore, to hire your coach without 
any ftipulated recompence to the coach- 
man. There will alfo be great impofi- 
tions attempted upon you in the article of 


64 The tSektkntim's Guide 

carriage, in your excursions to Verfailles, 
and other places within the environs of 
Paris. The firft unneceflary piece of ex- 
pence they will want to put you to, is an 
additional pair of horfes j by no means 
confent to this •, and before you go out 
upon your excursions, take care to ftipu- 
latc with the mafter how much you are to 
give to provide for his coach and horfes, 
during the number of days you flay out, 
for this expence falls upon you ; fix livres 
a day is fufficient : if you don*t make this 
bargain, they will want to charge twelve - % 
nay, if they find you very free of your 
money, which, through vanity, or folly, 
the better fort of Englifh generally are, 
they will very probably charge you 
eighteen. Obferve you pay fix livres to 
the king's coach office, for a permifiion to 
go to Verfailles in your own carriage; 
which permit is good for twelve months. 
But, above all things, you muft be ex- 
tremely cautious of the Servants you hicc; 
thofe fellows are always on the watch for 
you, and are the greateft rogues breath- 
ing. They are fee'd by all the tradefmen 
:they get you to employ, and defraud you 
in every article they buy for you them- 
felves. Never give them more than thirty 
foys a day, about fifteen pence Englifh* 


in his *tcur ikrmgh France. 6$ 

and you provide them neither with lodg- 
ings, cloaths, nor victuals. This is a fix- 

' ed price ; give no more on any account, 
tho* at firft they will aik it. In a word, 
have particular care of your fervants, fome 
of them are provided with a little Englilh, 
and thefe are the worft. For drefling 
hair, never give more than fix livres per 
month. Ladies give twelve to be drelt 
in the higheft mode •, and both gentlemen 
*nd ladies are dreft efrery day, 
- One great artiele of expence at Paris, ia 
cloaths. You will 'meet no wherewith 
greater cheats fh^i %hi French tftylors, it 
is therefore my advicfe to you, to buy 
every thing yourfelf ; and, even at tha 
merchants, be very cautious not to give 
ib mueh as they afk you. • Fot making a 

f plain fuit <tf cloaths, you give eighteen 
Drillings-,- and fix the richeftkced cloath* 
thirty (hillings The fiaits moft generally 
ufed$ a*e velvet, filk, • and plain cloth* 
A black velvet fuit, with a very rich gold 
Waiftcoat, will coft ytro fifteen g uineas, 
making and all. A filk fuit nine guineas. 
A. cloth fuit, lined with filk, fix guineaa 
and half. Each of thefe fuits have twopair 
of breeches. If you ufe gold trimmings, 
Fur lining, or lace, as I advife you to buy 
the articles from the merchant, you will 
• ■ fee 

66 The Gentleman** Guide 

fee, and be a judge of, the additional ex- 
pence. But if the d oaths here mentioned, 
>vhich are fuch as are ufualjy bought at 
Paris, colt you a greater price than is 
here let down, you will be impofed upon. 
Obferve that every thing is rated accord- 
ing to the heft quality . - Never give more 
than iwelve (hillings a pair for iilk ftock- 

/ ings. Shoes are ho more than five livres 
ten fous a pair. Laced ruffles are an article 
in which you will be exceedingly impofed 
oh, if you do not take care. I can give 
you no rule for this article of expence, 

. but be cautious never to buy them either 
of milliners, or the people that go about j 
the firft will charge you triple their value i 
the lait will give you goods worth no- 
thing. Ladies are in no great danger 
of being cheated, by any one but their 
milliners. I therefore advife them to 
buy their blonds, gauzes, and laces, at 
the merchants, and fend them to be 
made up. 

The Fauxbourg St. Germains is the 
moil fafhionable quarter of the city, where 
^ILthe^EngUfh refide, and near theplay- 
houfe/the opera, the eating-houfes, the 
Englilh coffee-houfe, Rue ComedieFran- 
joife, and the Caffe Conti, facing the Pont 
Neufi which, with the Caffe Militaire, Rue 

in his Tour through France. 6j 
St. Honor£, are the beft in Paris: by 
frequenting the Englifh coffee-houfe, you 
will no doubt be accofted by many finn- 
ing heroes bedaubed with lace, either of 
the Scottifh, Irifh, or Englifh nation, afk~ 
ing you where you lodge, how long you 
have been in town, and offering you any 
§ civilities in their power ; but by no means 
I accept of any of their fervices ; and be- 
V have at the fame time with referve, (ex- 
cept you know them.) There are many 
French coffee-houfes of reputation, which 
are preferable to frequent^ on account of 
learning the French language; as the 
hearing it diftindtly fpoken, and reading 
much, are the moft eflenti^l helps to 
accomplish that point. I do not mean 
by what t have advanced, to exclude my 
countrymen wholly from the Englifh cof- 
fee-houfe, as it is extremely natural to 
wiih to read the Englifh papers, and fee 
what acquaintances are in town ; but I 
would recommend it always to be done in 
the morning. 

When you are fixed in your lodgings, 
it will be highly requifite to wait on your 
( b^nkep he jsqu r&tyrix ypux. yifij, which 
twill give you fome weight in the houfe 
(where you lodge ; for though the French 
are lefs cautious than the Englifh in let- 

60 The Gentleman's Guide 

ting their apartments ; they are always 
beft pleafed, and treat with the greateft 
civility, thofe who are known to fome 
people of credit. Defire your banker to 
recommgM. . you a. JfcoiaDt, which he 
can do with little trouble to himfclf * this 
done, you will perhaps be under lefs dan- 
ger of being robbed by him. 

The wines moftly drank at Pms are, 

Bon vin vieux de fieaune j 

De Volne Tannee paffee •, 

(Thefe are the red wines fit to drink at 
meal?, when mixt with water. The price 
is thirty fous a bottle.) 

Reignac, a white wine, at the fame 

Frontiniac, a rich fweet white wine, 
two Jivres ten fous a bottle. 

Champaigne, the beft, four livres a 

^ Cofte Rotie, a light drinking wine, two 
Jivres ten fous a bottle : and, 

Hermitage, a ftrong wine, three livres 
a bottle* 


in his tow through France* 6 j 


A N D 




IT is to be hoped that, by this time, you 
have met with fome of your acquaint- 
ances, with whom it will be agreeable to 
make a party to vifit the king's palaces 
at Verfailles and Marly •, for which pur- 
pofe you fhould by all means buy La nou- 
velle defcription des chateaux* & pares de 
Verfailles &? JWarly. That is, the net/ 
defcription of the caftles and parks of Ver- 
failles and Marly : it is printed in two 
pocket volumes, and will coft yoti only 



}o • the Gentleman's Guide 

.Thofe books are indeed extremely ef- 
fential to your examining with accuracy 
all the curiofities of each place •, they con- 
tain well engraved copper-plates of all the 
fuperb buildings, beautiful bafons, and 
exquifite ftatues, with which thofe en- 
chanting abodes are fo artfully ornament- 
ed j thofe two little volumes will explain 
to you, in the moft intelligent manner, 
the hiftory of every pidture in eacn cham- 
ber, many of which give the moft-flat- 
tering reprefentations of their military at- 
chievements ; and indeed, fhew us moft 
conipicuous emblems of the pride and 
vanity fo predominant in the French 

One, in particular, ftruck me with 
indignation, as it fets forth (to the public 
view of all nations) a moft lively defcrip- 
tion of what will remain a blot in the 
Englilh efcutcheon to time immemorial : 
it is the acquifnion of Dunkirk, which 
town Louis XIV. bought of king Charles 
II. for the fum of five million of livres, in 
November 1662, about 219,000/. fter- 
ling. , 

In this piece, Britannia is reprefented 
kneeling, and. offering,, in the moft fuh- 
miflive. manner, the keys of the town to 
France, who (under the figure of a very 


in his Tour through France, 71 

beautiful womaii) is feated on a moil 
magnificent throne, : and with great haugh- 
tinefs expreffed on her countenance, haf- 
tily fnatches the keys from the hands of 
the heretic, who (With great juftice in- 
deed) is blindfolded, and furrounded with 
books and papers, ia the utmoft confu- 

There are many other paintings equally 
oftentatious, which would be too tedious 
to mention. 

This delightful excurfion, properly ex- 
ecuted, will take you up at leaft four or 
five days ; the moft proper time to fet 
out upon it, is, when any ambafiador 
makes his firft appearance at court •, as, 
in compliment to him, the water-works 
in the gardens all play on that day \ but 
fhould you chance to be at Paris on a 
Whitfunday, La fete de Pentecofte in 
French, that is the time, preferable to any 
other throughout the j'ear, you ought to 
be at Verfailles -, on which day you will 
fee the moft numerous andbrilliant court 
in Europe; as the king and queen, witli 
all the royal family, all. the princes of th6 
blood, and alt the nobility of France, pafs 
and repafs in pi^dceflfohfeveral titles, and 
fo flowly> may make your obfer- 
■•;•"• -j vations 

7* - The Gentleman's Guide 

vations fo juft, as to know any of them 
perfonally ever after : the king fups in 
publick, and the queen dines in the fame 

Versailles is about twelve miles from 
Paris, on an artificial eminence in the 
midft of a valley. Before Louis XIV. 
came to the throne, neither the town, nor 
the palace, had any thing to recommend 
them, being only a hunting-feat : but 
there are now three noble avenues leading 
to the palace, from fo many towns : the 
middle walk of the grand avenue is fifty 
yards wide, and thofe on each fide twenty : 
on the upper end of it, on the right and 
left, are the (tables, in the form of a cref- 
cent, fo magnificently built that fewroyal 
palaces excel them; in which the king 
has five hundred horfes, the fineft the 
world can produce. 

From the parade you immediately pafs 
into the firft court, through an iron paj- 
lifade, in which are offices for minifters 
of ftate; then you afcend three fteps, and 
pafs an iron gate, adorned with trophies, 
. tothefecond court, which is fomewhat left 
than the firft ; in which is a noble foun- 
tain in the middle, and magnificent build- 
ings in the wings : then you pafs into a 


in his Timr tfifough Fraixee r w , , y^ 

thifi (till lcfs than the fecQnd^.ta.w^ich 
you gfc&nd by.fivp.fteps.j this court ,.« 
pavejd with bhjc£, ,£nd white marblq >, ha$ 
a.marbje, bafqj[V/and/ountain iq, the.middte* 
gnd is terminated? by ,a noble .pile of ]bui*i 
ings,. which^ .with, the wings, qqnftitusc 
the. roy4 apartments* . The princippai ftaii T 
cafe thereia is ten yards .wide^ and qonfifta 
<>f ,the choiceft^tnarble that toyld be pro^f 
cured. ; The grand .apartments confift of 
along fuccefton, of largetofty rpoms*e^ 
•quifitely furnifh^d. , Ici the cabinet of ra- ; 
rities, a^e aft infinite number qf curipfitjes^ 
i^^te,. $ryfta},,ai}d.^ 
njed^l^ sqjns, $x4 other antiquities^ wichj 
feyejal admirably paiatipgs.-; The gallery, 
(efteemed the fineft in Europe) is leventyv 
two yards lopg, <and fourteen brQad.; pav- 
ing |eyenteen windows awards jthe^ ga*^ 
dens.i^froQi. wji^nce there is a moft de- 
lightful prpfpe<&. ., ..... j u ,, . , , V } 
r , Qn, the. ceilings ^91 painted the>battle$ 
fought in.theijate &ng!s ;reign, and donq 
i.n ijxe mpft .high, finjiihed tafte : the fineft 
front is. ne^ ^^garden^.w, wfyich fide 
there. is : a magpificent pprtiqo, fupportq4 
by rt martjle .pilars* ja^m^qrc^ V^fr jh& 
f^me, loo yards in length; and.the gar* 
dps are not to be paralleled-, as all the 
beautiful models that Italy, or the world 
£ could 

*4 The Gentleman's Guide 

Could produce, were confulted' to make 
them complete •, the water- works, espe- 
cially, are inimitable ; here marble and 
eopptr ftatues, fpout up water in differ- 
ed forms which falls into marble ba- 
fons of exquifite workmanfliip. The 
fountain of the pyramid, the cafcades, the 
water-alley, the water-bower, the trium- 
phal arch, the pavillicn fountain, the 
theatre, and Apollo's bafon, where Louis 
XIV. is reprefented under the chara&er 
of that god, juft come out of the bath, 
and fix ot his favourite ladies aflifting him 
with linen, &c. are fo exquifite, that no- 
thing but a view can raife an adequate 
idea of their various beauties : the groves, 

tirottos, labyrinth, and orangery, are all 
nely contrived. 
The great canal is r 600 yards long, 
and 64 broad; there are feveral gallies 
and pleafure boats upon it *, and towards 
the middle, it is croffed by another canal, 
at one end of which is the menagery, well 
ftocked with all manner of wild beafts, 
birds, and all forts of exotic animals ; 
and at the other, the beautiful little pa- 
lace of Trianon, built entirely of marble. 
There are three fine avenues to the pa- 
lace > the middle one leacfc to Paris, and 


in his Tour through France. 75 

is jive and twenty toifes in breadth \ as ta 
the other two, one leads to St. Cloud, and 
the other to Sceau ; they all three termi- 
nate in- a kind of parade, called the Royal 
Square. The park - lodge, a ipaciotH 
building, intended for his majefty's head- 
huntfman, and the other officers under 
his direftion, ftands on the fide of the ave- 
nue leading to Paris, oppofite the hotel 
de Conti, which formerly belonged to the 
duke of Vermandois. The defign of the 
ftables was given by Julius Harduin Man- 
fart ; they are built in the form of a cre- 
fcent at the upper end of the grand avenue, 
cm the right and left, the whole fo regu- 
lar and beautiful, that few royal palaces 
exceed them. From hence the caftlc ap- 
pears like a magnificent theatre ; and you 
muft afcend to come at it. The outer 
gate is all wrought iron gilt, and about 
twelve feet high ; it is terminated by two 
lanthorns, furmounted by two groups of 
figures; the one carved by Marfy, and 
the other by Girardon. A fecond gate, 
adorned with groups, feparate the tWb 
court-yards ; the figure of peace was done 
by Tuby, and plenty by Coifevox. The 
two large piles of buildings belonging to 
the wings, each terminated by a pavilion, 
E 2 are 

y6 Th* Gtntltmaris Guide 

are defigned for the officers of the' kkehtti* 
After that, you fethe for^froiKaiid^th* 
wings of the old eaftle. or pafae£; thfc> 
front has a balcony, lup£erted by eight 
n»rble columns ; there are twoTanges'of 
apartments diat join the two paJaces. 

The new palace is a- range of magnifi*- 
cent apartments, which, together with its 
wings, forms a front of above three him-- 
dred fathom; . The ridgle is decorated 
with ftatues, vafts, and trophies, rangfed* 
on ballifters, which run along the whold 
building. It is built fo ds- to frant-the- 
garden, and it is on this fide that-Ver-- 
failles makes the fincft appearance- The 
great marble ftair-cafe furpaffes any thing, 
of the kind that antiquity can boiftofr 
The frefco paintings Were- done, by Le« 
Brun ; and the buft of Lewis XI V, yrzs 
carved by the famous Goifevox. This is 
the entrance into the grand apartments, - 
the furniture of which- is immenfely rieh r 
and magnificent. 

Firfr' you pafs into thtfliall'bf plenty^ 
painted by Houafie. Thencte yofa- pro- 
ceed to the cabinet of afttiqtfifcies and- 
jewels, which is'of an o&agon figurfe* amH 
enlightened by a rtfof in thfc- form r bfi* 
dome, and^aintx^aMb4>yiieuftflfcHei«iJ 


in his Tour through France. *}j 
among othpr precious curiofities, they 
have the fineft agate in Europe, being of 
three colours, and four or five inches in 
.diameter, reprefenting the figure of a nak- 
ed emperor, carried on the back of an 
eagle, and crowned with victory. The 
efcrutore, in the middle of this chamber, 
-contains a moft magnificent colle&ion of 
aatkru: and modern medals* The firfl; 
pieces were given to Lewis XIV. by his 
uncle the duke of Orleans, and afterwards, 
by much fearch and expence 1 it was made 
the completed coife&ion in the world. 
The hall of Venus has fome bfcautifui 
paintings* and an antient ftatue of Cincin- 
natus. The hall of the billiard~t<tbk is 
likewife adorned with fine paintings, and 
with LewisXIV*s buft by cavalier Bernini. 
The hall of Mars has a great number of 
exquifite paintings, and among the teft 
the family of Darius at Alexander's feet* 
one of Le Brun-'s bell pieces. On the 
ceiling the god Mars is reprefented in a 
chariot drawn by wolves. The hall of 
Mercury is painted by Champagne, when} 
you may fee feveral other pieces by the 
fame hand, and likewife fome by Raphael* 
Titian, and other eminent mailers. The 
hall of Apollo h^s fome excellent pieces, 
and antong the reft the four feafoos by La 
E 3 Foffe,. 

78 the Gentleman's Guide 

Fofle, and fevcral pidtures, by Guido. 
The halls of war and peace are at both, 
ends of the gallery •, the former has fome 
fine paintings, reprcfenting the actions of 
Lewis XIV. by Le Brun. 

From the hall of vxar you pafs to the 
great gallery, the moll beautiful and mag* 
nificem in Europe. It is thirty- feven 
fathom long, and feven broad, ending 
with a great arch, which leads into the 
fore-mentioned halls, and adorned with 
two marble pillars. On the garden-fide 
there are Seventeen windows which look 
into it ; and on the fide of the king's 
apartments as many arches, filled with 
large pier-glafles. Thefe arches and win- 
dows arefeparated by twenty-four pilafters. 
The roof is excellently painted by Le Brun, 
and reprefents in a'legorical or emblemati- 
cal figures, part of the memorable tranf- 
aftions of the late king's reign, from the 
Pyrene an treaty to the peace of Nimeguen. 
The reft of the gallery is adorned with 
bulls, vefiels, tables of porphyry and ala- 
bailer, and with eight anticnt llatues, 
among which thofe of Bacchus, Venus, 
Germanicus, and Diana, are mollefteemed. 

From the great gallery you may proceed 
dire&ly to the queen's apartment, which is 
of the fame dimenfions as the king's, but 


in his Tour through France. 79 
of different workmanfhip, adorned with 
paintings of very great value, chiefly by 
Vignon and Coypel. Palling to the land- 
ing place of the great marble ftair-cafe, 
you come to the king's apartment, diftrir 
buted into fcveral chambers. Firft you en- 
ter" into the hall of guards, adorned with 
gilding and looking- glafies. The next U 
the hall where the king dines in public, 
embelliihed with pi&ures of feveral bat- 
tles. From thence you pafsto the great 
hall, which is worthy of admiration rorit^ 
riches and beauty ; particularly for the 
cornifhes, with the Mofaic work 2x\&baffb- 
relievo's. The king's bed-chamber is or- 
namented with a great deal of magnifi- 
cence, and good order. His bed is of 
crimfon velvet, with a beautiful and rick 
embroidery (ibniettme^of tUmaikj and 
other times of gold tiflue, according to 
the feafon) placed in an alcove, and in-, 
clofed with a gilded baluftrade. The moft 
exquifite pi&ures adorn this royal cham- 
ber, and the reft of the furniture is mag- 
nificently elegant. We fhall take notice 
of the pictures in the council-hall in ano- 
ther place. The billiard-room has a noble 
fine billiard-table, at which Lewis XIV. 
ufed to play very often •, it is likewife 
embellifhed with a great mafty excellent 
E 4 piftures, 

80 The Gentleman's Guid* . 

piftures, and* with a clock of very curious 
tororkmanfhip. From this room yoiiprai 
ceed to ftvtral Othef chambers, all finely 
adorned With'pairttihgViff drie df them 
there is a globe Trtfofe circles move juft as 
thofe in the heavens do. At length you 
come to the little-gallery, which istfie laft 
piece of the kihg's apartment. The ceil- 
ings of this gallery, and of the two halls 
ar the* end* of It, were painted Uy Mig- 
nard.' This gallery is likewlfe full of 
fome of the betl performances of painters 
of the firft rank. *Th*hce you £roce«fd to 
the apakments -belonging to the Daupliih; 
and the xtft of the rOyal family, which 
confift of chambers, cabinets," halls, &e; 
laid out with a great deal of art.' "" 
J The chapel belonging' to the palace is 
— *^**dffitf fit* hiece of afchite&ure* 

built of free-fibnc, in the Conntman or- 
der, twenty-two fathom long, twelve 
broad, and about fourteen high. On the 
top there is a fine JDaluftrade, with eight 
and twenty ftatues. Nothing can be more 
beautiful or richer than the inward etnbel-' 
Whments of this chapel. The great akar 
is of the finefl marble. The facfifty is 
yery neat. You afcend' to the galleries 
by two ftair-cafes with iron rails, richly 
gilt. The king's gallery faces the great 


in his tour through France. S* 

altar, aver the great door, and is thirteen 
feet and a half wide; The two lamps are 
gilt in an exquifite tafte, and the glafleS 
are exceeding beautiful. The queen's gal- 
lery is on the right ; and the gallery: that 
runs round the chapel is nine feet and a 
quarter wide, fupported by fifteen pillars, 
and fome pilafters of the Corinthian or- 
der. The baluftrade is very rich and ek*- 
gant. The roof is elegantly painted by 
eminent hands. - 

The gardens abound with mafter^piirces 
of every kind. The orangery is <ane of 
the faireft pieces of Tufcan architecture 
to be fecn at Yerfaillfg. The.defign is by 
Le ^(laitre ; but it was revifed and finif&- 
ed by Manfart, though iadee^ withgreft^r 
fileg^ace than foiidity. The eight groups 
©f bronze; which: yoai fee in tfie parterre 
of water, and which reprefent eight rivers 
of France, were caft by the two Kellers. 
The vafe of Latona has two fheafa thiuty 
feet ba^h* {he group yjf marble is by 
M^rfy. This flower-garden is &y Lr 
Notre, and the parterre of the oraqgery 
is by Quintinie. The equeftrian fEatue 
at the head of the Swifs piece, or bafoa, 
on the other fide of the orangecy, . was 
made by cavalier Bernini for Lewis XI V/j 
but no* finding the work, fo corcpJkte as 
E 5 he 


ti *fhe Gentleman 9 ! Guide 

he could wifli, he changed the features of 
Lewis XIV. and made a Curtius of it. 
The figure of Autumn in the balbn of 
Bacchus is by Marfy, and the vale of 
Saturn by Girardon. The colonnade is a 
periftyle of thirty-two columns, fupported 
by as many pilafters in the Ionic order. 
The roofs are of white marble, embellilh- 
ed with beautiful bajfo relievo's ; in the 
middle is a beautiful group of marble by 
Girardon, representing the rape of Pro- 
fcrpine. The group of metal in the large 
balbn of Apollo, is by Tuby, and reckon- 
ed one of his beft pieces. The Enceladus 
is a very fine group, fet up in an o&agon 
bafon; from the mouth of this giant, 
opprefled by the weight of mountains, 
flows a Jet d'eau^ or fpout of water, that 
rifes feventy-eight feet high. Tuby made 
the balbn of Flora, and Renaudon that 
of Ceres. Of the three excellent groups 
in the baths cf Apollo, Girardon* made 
the middle one, and Marfy and Gueria 
the other two. The fountain of the pyra- 
mid, is executed in bronze by Girardon i 
Tuby and Le Hongre made the two bar 
fons'below ; the vafes you. fee there, were- 
carved at Rome. The cafcade of the ca- 
nal where the nymphs are bathing, is a 
Jfcjuare, where feveral mafks feem to fpout 
V out 


in his Tout" tftroUgh France. % 

cut water for the ufe of thofe nymphs. 
This work is by Girardon ; and the rivers 
were executed by Le Hongre and Lp 
Gros. The dragon of the fountain that 
bears that name, was made by Marfy; 
the group of the bafpn of Neptune is by 
Dominic Gendi, a difciple of Algardi. 
Thefe two laft pieces furpafs all the other 
figures at Verfailles. The triumphal arch 
remains to be feen •, it is built of marblp 
of different colours, and adorned with 
three fine fountains. The figures are by 
Tuby and Coifevox ; the fountain of Vic- 
tory and Glory, both by Mafeline, have 
a great number of decorations, which 
produce a very good effeft. 

The Menage ry is a fmall palace buik 
by Manfart. The two apartments for 
winter and fummer, are adorned with ex- 
cellent paintings, and finely furniftied with 
pier-glaffes in gilded frames. There is a 
vaft number of little fountains, which 
fprinkle thofe who are not upon theyr 
guard. The volery, or bird-cote, is this 
fineft in all France, and bell {locked. 
Several apartments in this palace are aft- 
pointed for the breeding of animals of 
all kinds, from the moft common to the 

E 6 From 


84 Tke Gentleman's Guide 

From the menagery, there arc fevcrai 
alleys that lead to the royal and magnifi- 
cent abbey of St. Cyr, of the order of St. 
Auguftin. It is fituate in the park-, about 
three miles from Verfailles, and was found- 
ed by Lewis XIV. for the education of 
two hundred and fifty young ladies. The 
number of nuns is forty. The king has 
'referred the nomination of the young la- 
dies to himfelf . To obtain admiffion, they- 
tnuft prove four degrees of nobility on thle 
father's fide. No girl can enter under 
fcven years of age, nor ftay there after 
the age of twenty years and three months* 
When they go out, they have either a 
thoufand crowns in money, or oneof thofe 
places which the king has the difpofal of 
in feveral convents. The building is ex* 
tremely fine : the architect was Maniurt, 
who finifhed it in 1686. 

Trianon was built after die defigns of 
J. H. Manfart. This little palace may 
be looked upon as a kind of furameiv 
houfe to the gardens of Versailles ; it is 
built in an excellent tafte, and is more- 
over embelti&od t>y the richeft decora- 
tions. The front is ftxty-fbur fathom iji 
length, and has tw^ returning wings, tet~ 
mioated by two pavilions. The fineft 


in hit *toitx through France. % 

viewa of the.pal#ce^ndpaprk*o£ Verfaifles,. 
are in the gfeat galtery, and were painfed 
chiefly by CotteL AUegrin has painted 
the fame fubje&s, and the (ketch of a 
portico in the gieat {alow- There ajie 
alfo fome of Houafie's pidtures i& the bit- 
Hard-hall The greup of QkiWsenj ia, the 
upper parterre^ ai$ by Girardon. Tuby 
carved Laocoon and hi§ foi$,. whiefr-ftand 
m tht garde** of Masoniem tiiia it an. 
admkabte group, : cypjed after the an- 
tique. The vafes and dragpas of gik kftd>> 
wWdv are upon tih« Ji^ge piece* of water 
that terminates d\e gardens* a»e eattiemslj: 
wM wosagbt and finished. 

-£(/? 4jf tktyrintifd P*mth%* #t VerfaiHes- 

hk the chape4of Verfailka, the chapel 
«£ the Hdy Sacrament » painted by Sit- 
wlfare. . * 

The chapel erf 'Sz> Lewis, by Jquwhcc. 

The chapel of St. Terdfa* by Santenre. 

The chapel of ths. Yixgut, by BwiQgne: 
the younger.. 

The principal vauk, painted fey Antony 
Coypel, reprefents the Eternal Father ifi 
lib gtory. 



%6 f he Gentleman's Guide 

- In the five firft vaults of the gallery, 
on the right hand, as you come in, you 
fee St. Barnabas, St. Jude, St. Bartholo- 
mew, St. James the lefs, and St. James 
the greater, all painted by Boulogne the 

In the fixth vault, on the fame fide, 
Boulogne the elder has reprefented the 
vifion of St. Paul. 

The faints, Peter, Andrew, Philip, 
Simon* Matthias, and Thomas, are alio 
by the fame hand. 

La Fofle has painted the refurre&ion in 
the vault of the Chevet. 

In the vault of the king's gallery, Jou- 
venet has reprefented the defcent of the 
Holy Ghoft. 

The great gallery was painted by the 
famous Le Brum 

The largeft pi&ure in the middle of 
the vault is in two parts : one is the king, 
taking upon him the adminiftration of 
affairs ; and the other, the antient pride 
of the neighbouring people, in 1661. 

The fecond pifture on the left hand of 
the great faloon, is the king taking a re?- 
folution to wage war againft the Dutch in 

The third, on the right of the great 
jaloon, is the king arming by land and 
ica, in 1672. The 

in his Tour through France, tj 

The fourth, on the left of the great 
faloon, is the king attacking Holland in 

The fifths which fills the whole vault, 
is the paffage of the Rhine in 1 672. 

The fixth, over the arcade of the faloon 
of war, is the league of Germany, Spain, 
and Holland, in 1672. 

The feventh, on the fide of the great 
faloon, is Franche-Comte reconquered; 
in 1674. 

The eighth, which takes up the whole 
vault, is th« taking of Ghent, in 1678. > 

The ninth, over the arcade of the fa- 
loon of peace, is Holland accepting of 

The fmall piftures of the gallery,, in 
the key of the vault, are, 

1. The relieving of the people during 
the famine in 1662. 

2. Theedift againft duels, in 166.1. : 

3. The peace of Aix-la-Chapelle, in 
1668. » 

4. The war for the queen's rights, in 

5. The police, eftabliihed at Paris if* 

6. The acquifition of Dunkirk in 1 662b* 
On the fide of the looking-glafles : '• 

1. Hoi-- 

$8 f*fo Genttman's Guub 

i. Holland iuccoured in 1665. 

2. The defeat of the Turks in Hun* 
gary, in 1664. 

. 3. The re-eftablifhment of navigation, 
in 1663. 

4. The finances put in order, in 1662. 

5. The eftablifiung of the hofpital of 
the invalids,, in 1674. 

6. The renewing the alliance with the 
$w'j&, in 1663. 

On the fide of the windows : 

1. The infuk of : the Corticans repair- 
ed, in 1 664. 

2. The pre-eminence ceded, by Spain. 
to France, in 1662. 

3. Juftice reformed, in 1667. 

- 4^ The, polite arts protected, inri 663.. 

5. Embaflies from the extremity of the 
earth, in 168 6. 

6. The jundtion of the two &as, begun 
in 1666 , and finifhed in 1680,. 

The pidures that may be feen, during, 
♦he winter, in the king's apartments at 
-YerfaUlps, are as follows : 

In the guard- room, over the chimney,. 
<* battle painted by Parocel. 

In the dining-room, over the chimney,* 
a battle, irmch cfteemed, by Pietro di 
Cortoacu ' ^ 


in his Four through France. $£ 

The eleven pi&ures reprefenting fieges* 
by Parocel. 

In the king's anti-chamber, over tfic 

A nativity. 

Either before Ahafuerus. 

Chrift in "the tomb > ail three by Paola 

Over another door, a picture by B^flkno^ 

Over tjtie chimney, a repofe^ krteV $e 
flightlh'to^Egypt, Vy Gentifcfchi. ** 

Pyer the door, the entering into the 
arlc, Xy BalTano; * 

t% t)avid and Bathfheba, by Paolo V$rQ~ 
nefe. '■ 

* Judith and Holofernes, by the fame, 
hand. . 
c Tri the bed-chamber, over the door: 

The Marquis of Aitonne, by Y^and^yke*. 

bt. John, by Caravaggio. 

In winter St, John the evangelift, bjr 

A David, by Domenichini, 

Over the door^ a Magdalen, by Alex- 
ander Veronefe. 

A poj*trair x by Vandyke.. 

Over the c©roifli, St. Jote the evan- 
gpRft, by Vakhtini> 

The marHage of St. Cttharifie, by 
Alexander Veronefo 

St. Luke 

90 fAe Gentleman's Guide 

St. Luke the Evangelift. 

Sl Matthew. 

Chrift paying tribute to Caefar. 

St. Mark ; all four by Valentini. 
In the council-cabinet, over the door : 

A little Pyrrhus and a Bacchanalian, 
both by Pouflin. 

The departure of St. Peter and St. 
Paul, by Lanfranco. 

Chrift healing the blind men of Jericho, 
by Pouflin. 

In the perriwig clofet, three pi&ures 
over the door,, reprefenting menageries, 
by Baflano, 

In the clock-chamber, over the chim- 
ney : 

The elevation of Chrift on the crofs, 
by Le Brun. 
- Over the doer; ...^ 

The Samaritan, by Guido. 

The marriage of S, Catharine, by Nicplo. 

Rebecca, by Coypel. 

The daughter of Jethro, by Le Brun. 
Over the door : 

Adam and Eve, by Albano. 

Chrift carrying the crofs, by Mignard. 

Latona and the peafants, by Albano. 

The marriage of Mofes, by Le Brun. 
, Mofes taken out of the waters, by La , 
tfofle. . 


in his Tour through France. 91 

lh the anti-chamber of the king's little 
apartments, over the door : 

Mofes fpurning away the crown of 

The defcent of manna. 

A holy family. 

The rapture of St. Paul. 

The Arcadian fhepherds. 

The plague. 

Mofes's rod changed into a ferpentj 
all feven by Pouffin. 

A nativity, by Baflano. 

The good Samaritan, by Molle. 

Venus and Vulcan, by Mignard. 

Angelica and Medor, by Molle. 

St. Bruno, by the fame. 

In the king's little apartment, over the 

Diana returning from the chaee, bjr 

Over the chimney : 

SJilence, by Le Brun. 

The incredulity of St. Thomas, by 
. A landfcape and figures, by Banboccio. 

A holy family, by Pouffin. 

A fmall Virgin, by Guidp, ; 

A nativity, by L. Caracci, 

A landfcapc and concert. 

A Silence. 


5? 3fc GtntlppMns (fuidf 

Jhc ^aching of St. John : all iftree 
by A. Cafacci. 

The Virgin and Chrifl^with many an- 
gels, by Andrew Azib. 

A fmall Virgin, by Guido. 

Over the door : 

The view of Fontainebleau, by Van- 

The view of Vincennes, by.the.ftrae* 

Theplayaffton the yioiin* bgr Gw^Qnc* 

A fmall lancflcape ai»4 an kprffVt* \>J 

The refurreftion, by the fame. 

The facrifice of Abraham, by Holbein* 

A mufe, by Giotgipne.. 

A fmall laridfcapp, by Payl Brit 

In tfye faloofi, oyer the door : 

The views of St, Germains, and of 
Yjecftillc% bpth by Vand^naeulen. 

The annunciation, uy j^. w«u<*a.a« 

The bearing of the crofs, byRotenamen 

A nativity, by Jofephin. 

Cjrce, Ulyffes, and his companions,, 
bv Albani. 
. ' The preaching of Sti John, by the fame. 

The marriage of St. Catharine, by Par- 

The martyrdom of §t. Stephen, by 
Corneille Pollain, 

Ditto, by A. Caracci. 


in his foHfttettigft Mfie. $fl 

The liege of Roc&fle, byCU«& L6r- 
rain. > 

The facrifice'ofAb&Ittk by Ciradci. 

The annuncidttdft, hfy A'lbShi. 

Bibife, by the f*tie. 

The Virgin and Jefus, by DomeiiicMitf 4 

Parnaffus and the ftflufes, by Perin del 

The Eternal Father in fifi glory, by 

Abfalon^ by Caracci. 

A holy faffiily, by Raphael. 

Apollo and^Daphne, by Albani. 

Chrift healing a fick v j?erfoh, by Pafolo 

ChriftiiS J tlte f tdttib; by'VaAdykfe. 

L'afi^c'd^an&-v^^ by 6a- 


The pafs of r SQlav by' Clatide' Lorain. 

Venus artd the'Iiovefc, by JulioTtbmaho. 

A landfcape ofSt.' J6hh preathirigv by 
Ph. Napolitari. 

A fair, by tte'fcnte. * 

^teb^fih^ofot/rllofd^by Albtfni. 

In the cabinet of fhells : 

Hetodia^ b^ 6idi$dn£ 

A'k«dfGa^>B^ : '- 

Henry IL : by -TiMhft; 4 . 

Thfe ad&atfoii tf£ t&mih^iA&i- by 
Paolo Veronefe; 5 ' •' . - * 

St. Cecilia, 

9+ The Gentleman 9 s Guide 

St. Cecilia, by Mignard. 

Jofeph and Potiphar, by Albant, 

St. George, by Raphael. 

A Virgin, by Mignard 

The flight into Egypt, a landfcape, by 

St. Michael, by Raphael, 

The fair farrier, by Leonardo da Vinci. 

Griffd, by Raphael. 

A virgin, in a garland of flowers, by 

Chrift and the apoftks, by Paolo Ve- 

A landfcape, by Claude Lorrain. 

The portrait of Henry IV. byPorbus* 
In the gallery, over the door : 

A carrying of the crols, by Paolo Ve- 

jocunda, by Leonardo da Vinci. 

The baths oi Diana, by Albani. 

The fenfual man, by Corregio. 
* St. Francis, by Domenichini. 

Heroic virtue, by Corregio. 

Loves, in a garland wof flowers, by 

The Virgin and Chrift, by Titian. 

The unnailing from the cj-ofs, by ditto. 

St. Cecilia, by Domenichini. 

The circpmcifiop, by Julio Romano* 

An Ecce Homo, by Gujdo. 

A holy 

in his four through France. 95 

A holy family, by Parmcggiano* 

The, union of defign and colour, "by 

The charity of Battus, by AlbanL 

A Magdalen, by Guido. 

A holy family, by Raphael. 

The Virgin and St. Elizabeth, by 
Leonardo da Vinci. 

The nativity, by A. Caracci. 

Herodias, by Solario. 

A fmall nativity, by A. Caracci. 

Omphale, by L. Caracci. 

St. Paul's trance, by Domenichini. 

The efpoufal, by Corregio. 

The virgin and rabbit, by Titian. 

The Caftilian, by Raphael. 

The affumption of the Virgin, by 

A portrait, by Raphael. 

Our Lord's prayer in the garden, by 

The portrait of John Bellini and his 
brother, by J. Bellini. 

A portrait, by Leonardo da Vinci. 

A holy family, by Albani. 

A Virgin, greatly efteemed, by Raphael. 

St. Francis, by A. Caracci. 

A portrait, by Garafalo. 

A portrait, by Julio Romano. 

The annunciation, by Albani. 


$6 The Gentleman** Guide 

A portrait, by Holoein. 

A Fmall landfcape, by Paufl^riflw . ^ 

An oval Virgin, much efteemed, by 

A Virgin and St. John, by Raphael. 

Hope, , by Mignard. 

A V irgin, much efteemed, by Corregio* 

St. Catharine, r \>y J5a Vinci. 

Faith, by Mignard. . 

The Virgin, and St. Catharine, by 

A portrait, by. Holbein. 

A repole after the flight into Egypt, 
by Corneille. 

Ahead, by Sir 'Anthony More, 

A Virgin' and Jefus, after Corregio. 
- A portrait of Aniie of" Cleves, by 
Holbein. , • , ^ ..,• . ..,. 

A Virgin and Chnft afleep, by Guido. 

St. Jerome, b^ Guercini. 

A r Mary .Magdalen, Jby Titian. r , . 

The maftyraom of St. Stephen, by 1 A. 
Caraccu , _,^ , ,._ , 

In tfiie king^s great apartment^ in the 
ftaterchamber^ over the door : 

A virgin, by Vandyke. . 1 

Over the chimney, in fumnjen ,., 

The portrait of-Lc;wis &JV. by Ritault. 

Hercules on the foi$al pilei by 'Guido. 


in his Tour through France. ^ 

f * Hercules fighting the Hydra, by the 
fame. * t 

St. Francis in anextafy, by Valentini. 
Thomiris, by Rubens. 
Hercules and Achelous, by Guido. 
The Centaur and Dciapira, by the 

Over the door: 
The portraits of the Palatine princes* 
by Vandyke. 

In the bed-chamber, kifummer* 
over the door : 
A charity, by Blanchard. ; 

Chrift in the fepulchre, by Titian/ 
X he holy family, by Raphael.- . 
The marriage at Cana, by J. Baffano* 
An aflumption, by A. Caracci. 
St. Seb.aftian, by the fame. 
The. Virgin* Chrift, ,and St. Agnes; 
fey Titiap> ; , ; -, 

The pilgrims of Emmgw, by J^B^f- 

St. Michael, by Raphael - - 

Over the door :, 
A woman wifhinggoodlucjc, by Cara* 
.^agio. / .; . ^ : : -i; . ■ j\ 

In $hd coneert-room, in the winter, 
o^er.the tippr: < t 
The Virgin and St. Peter, by,Guer«fi|i. 

v : v F The 

y& The Gentlmurts Guide 

<' The pilgrims of l Emmius, by Paolo 


Eirft gallerf i ' 
A nativity, "by Dofle. 
A Virgin, by Mignard. 

Over the chimney : 
A Virgin, Chrift,, and St. John, by 
Paolo Veronefe. ,r 
« - ' Second gallery : 
A Virgin, by old Palma. 
An EccieHomo, by Mignard. 
. In fumme^r, the family of Darius, by 
Le Brinv 

* Over the door : 
Stu Jdhjun the defafrt; by Raphael. 
• III tlte next chamber : 

Iphigenia; by LaFoflc. 
An^ angel guafrdian, by Feti. 
In the faloon of the cabinet of medals : 
Chrift healing die woman of the bloody 
flu*, ' by Paolo Veninefe. 

In fummer, a nativity, by Gaudentio,. 
The flight into Egypr, by Guido. 
A Virgin and pilgrims, byPouttin. 

In the great faloon : 
The Pharifee's feaft, by Paolo Veronefe, 

In the cabinet of medals : 
A Virgin, Chrift, and St. John* by 
Raphael. - * 

in his Tour through France. 99 

The ^narriage of St. Catharine, by 
Paolo Veronefe, 

A Virgin, by the fame. 

The Virgin, Chrift, and St. Michael, 
by L* da Vinci. 

The Virgin and Chrift, f by Andrew 

Chrift on the crofs, by Paolo Veronefe. 

A Virgin,, Chrift, St. George, and St. 
Benedict, by Paolo Veronefe. 

The angel leading Tobias, by Andrea 
del Sarto. 

In the apartment of the duke of Orte* 
ans, in the bed-chamber, over the door ; 

A portrait, by Raphael. 

A portrait in its ftnft» by Vandyke. 

A circumcifion, by Dofle. 

A Virgin, Chrift, St. John, and St* 
Antony, byPalma. 

Chrift in the fepulchre, by J. Baflano. 

Chrift on the crofs* by Dorigny. 
. Over the door : 

Two foldiers, by Feti* 
In thex:lofet: 

The portrait of Joan of Sicily, by 

A Circe, by Guerckd. 

Titian's miftrefe, by Titian* 

The triumph of Titus, by J. Romano* 

Ft* Tjhe 


V The' portrait of Pofttormej by RaplwSeL 
Judith holding the head of H6loferncs, 

by L. Juftrus- •* * • ■ 

, The pictures not fhewn at the king's 

apartments, are kept in the cabinet* d£ 

k Surintfjidince des Batimens, where, 

among others, you may fee, 

The four elements," by Albani. -' 

. A Virgin, Ghrifty and St. Jehn* by 

L. da Vinci. * 

.' A country wedding, by Rubens. 
A large landfcape, by DomerfieMfci. ; 

- 'The ghoflf s>f- Samtiel a£peariig to 

Saul, by S. Rofa. 
The four feafons, by Pouflin. 
Several other pi&ures* by the fame. 
A Sufanna, :f by'Ti toret. " * 

. VeitaSv&rid lAdenie, by JPaolo Veroftefe. 

Apollo and Daphne* by Carlo Maratta-. 

• A Virgin arid Chf i&alleep, by the fame. 

A large landfcape, by Paul Brill. • 

A Sufanna, the judgment of Daniel, 

the judgment of- Solomon, -all three by 

Valentini. * . J . 

Tiqnoclea$, by'BbmenMiini* * 
Venus and Mars, by L. Juftrus. : '. " 
Chrift's baptkl**, by theiaritev* 

A fea-pGrV by'Cl. Lofrain. 

•Mary olMcdiCis, by VaiWIyfce. * 

■ , c 'm The 

in his Tdur th*Mgh France - to i 

• - T^.-porttait.;9f c q^eo;.Mar^ft^t^ by 
Rubens. * • .. ;u ; \ 

• r Mtffe taken^jQt <>i?\}the F#e**^ by 
.Paolo. Veronefi? f '_ , . . i w •• ,s . • *- »•* 

The nativity of the Virgin, by Paojp 
.Veronefe, ; o . • ■ ' 

A Virgin, Chrjft* And Sk.Mtffitina, by 
Pietro di Cortona. . : h ,i ^j :! l 

AfeXrianon f .,in;thei^i«|ci ftMqp^ou 
•Jije, > 'i : • < -. i.. . « vj ' ;j J ; !•■ A 

juno, and the rapQrdf )Qrfohya* .% 
Jlhwrdies/v [/:^ - ■; .-.--* *:* ~\ 

The pi£tures of flowers and vafes 4*1 tf £ 
*thi*e: jarxf < pieffeft, areibp Pflfctiftei imdi 
Fontenai. * .-. i l . s • oi J v 5 .s» A' 

. ' Ip- <th$ J*opn& JtaJ 1,< - . tbsre .4fe i . two 
piftures of nymphs, by BlanchartL* >'> 

in th«: ^HjA.haii; ywM&,y#Ay| at 

her toilet, by;^fiulQgfl£ the elder. 

-< i Gttpid ^fleep> ifcy, M^jnanL; . M v^.M * 

The judgment of Mjdas*>byjCfiBij^|J| 
the "elder. '! i-r .', ..h ', tl j 
< f •VtAus- . aqd, > Adto&fo and Veijus :*ith 
Ahfi troves, qye* the dpota, by Boulogne 
the younger. " " - ■ I ■ 

r\ fat *n4 rtatvife-iby .Boulogm the elder. 
/i Prphsufrfc^keadh^ 
Iris, over thei :$hi#iaSy, ' by 4*hfc .&me 

hand,. : - ..'; <v „Jl i 4; -' ;;• . 

.'1A the fourth hall, you fee 

F 3 Diana 

102 The Gentleman's Guide 

Diana, Endymion, and Mercury, by 

Juno menacing Ino, and Mercury 
cutting off the head of Argus, by Duver- 

Hercules alone, and Hercules with 
Juno, by^Noel Coypel. 

In the fifth hall, are 

Zephyrus and flora, by Jouvenet. 

And the four views or Verfailles, bf 
Martin the elder. 

In the firft room of the next apartment, 
you fee 

Narciflus, Cyanea, Alphcus* and Are- 
thufa, by Houafle. 

' In the fecond, Thetis and Flora, by 

juno and Flora, by Boulogne the elder* 
Over the doors, are 

Morning, noon, evening; and night, by 
Martin the elder. 

In the third, you fee 

Six pieces of the hiftpry "of Apollo, 
painted} jby^qel Coypel, Jquvfcnet; and 
Boulogne thb younger. 

Over the chimney of the fiHt room, in 
the apartment of thi late Monfeigneur, is 
• St. Uuke, - byJLa Foffer r] 

In the anti-chamber, there is - 
' - . ' " ■ . '■ A St* 

in his Tour through France. 103 
A St. ..Matthew, by Mignard % and a 
St. Mark, by La Foifc/ < 

In thejce chamber, you fee >M , >r J 

St. John in the v Ifle of Patrrios, f bri&'of 

the belt pieces of Le!B run, and fburlaJirdj- 

fcapes, s by Le Lorrain. ' ^ 

Ufi of the Statues at Ver failles. ■ ' 

In the great court 6?Yerfafflfc£ '$rCthe 
right: " " ' " ; ''' ' ;/?: *''*'* 

Iris", by Houflea\u ) l V ;, *' !i ' ; J y l 
Juno, by Desjafdiris* '"' '"\ Ml 

Zephyr, by Roger. >-\* )\ 

Vulcan, by Errard. 

A Cyclop," by Maniere. ' \ J / ,,h 
A nother Cyclop,^ by DroviUer l ' 

On the, left: , , '->V* 


.Ceres, by fuby/ \' " : y .'' * v :: * 
Pomona, by Mazeline* 
Flora, by Maflbn. f \ n 

Neptune, byBuifter- * :; lw * 

Thetis,, by Le Hongre. . . , > ' 

Galatea, pyHoiifleau. '*) 

About the pedimerit of the grand frdiit : 
Hercules, by Girardon, 
Mars, by Maffy. 

On the right of the 1 j grand front: ' 
Vi&ory, by Elpignola. " * ' '' 
Africa, by XJe*nbiigr& J 

F 4 America 

104 The Gentleman's Guids 

America, by Renaudin. 

Glory, by ditto. 

Authority, by Le Hongrc. 

Riches, by ditto. 

Generofity, by Le Gros. 

Strength, by Coifevox. 

Plenty, by Marfy. 
On the left df the* grand front: 

Fame, byLeComte. 
* Afia, by Maffon. 

Europe, by Le Gros. l 

Peace, by Renaudhv ', 

Diligence, by Raori. 

Prudence, by M&flbn. ' 

Pallas, by Girardon. 

Juftice, by Coifevox,. 

Riches', by Marfy! 

In the great gallery V 

The Venus of Arlesi a Bacchus* % 
Venus, Germaritcus, Diana, a prieftefs^ 
Urania, a veftal. Thefe eight v are an- 
tiques. ' ; ■ 
Upon the great landing-place : , 

Sik,np, Antinqps, Apollo, Bacchus ; 
& four iff brafi'/Caft by the Kellers. A 

Diana, by Roger*. 

Apollo, by Raon. 

The half-moon of Apoljo's bafon.' . 
On the right : 

Titusj AntinOusj Plenty, Aptfllo. Att 
four aftttfjues. " Orpheus 

in his S^ur <Jhrixgh3PriQce. *9g 

Auguftus, and fc-fenaf or ; antiques/ 
On the kft: ' , i, 'i 
A fenator, Agripjfiha, Juno, V-i&pryvTi- 
tusf HercCitea, JBrutjus. All&veji jtktiqjjes. 
. ' z' .Supporters pn,the,right: 

Vertumnus, by Le Hongre. .' jr 

Juno, byCUinJjfc 1 --' •■::». . . 

Jupiter,. by the fam*y..C . 

Syrinx, by Ma^lere. - J } . ;. 

The binding of Proteus, by Solds*. 
On the left: ' : . 

Pomona, by Le Hongre. 

Bacchus, by Raon. f [ . 

Spring, by Arfis and Maziere,. 

Pan, by Maztere. 

Ino and Melicerta, a. group, by G'rar 
mere;: • ♦-'; « • .«• ... ' 9 

In the great alley, on the left : ' 

Achilles Ulyfies,.fc>y Vigier.. 

An Amazon, by Butet. 
rjLSidoi by Paulctier.. '.-. 

A Fawn, by Flaman. » 

." r Vemj9 coaling jcut of the .hatfc; by 
Clairon- .■ . • 

Fidelity, by be Fevre. .• , . ; 

Milo of .Crotcma, ^6 3droirable:piece v 
by Puret. .-•.» ,- .;! ; ' <. . j * '•{ 

Caftor and PoHoix, ;%\<3oifevf>». I : 

A dying Myrmillo,.. Jby .Mamere.. * 
;:.:^M F 5 * The 

io6 thtXZtKtUmattiGutie . 

The Pythian Apollo, bjr Mazelbw^ 
Urania r by Cstflier, . v < ■ . ; 
Mercury, tyMdo* • «V 
Antinous, by LeGnfe; •*>'<■«-"■■ 
Silene holding Batthu*, by Mazieir. 
Venus with the beatitifyl thighs* by 
Clairon. . , • -i j .c «.- 

Tiridates, byDeitfdre,'. . 
Fire, by Dandre, \ } * \ 1 ' 
Lyric poetry, byTttby;'' ' • ' -1 - 
Jknrora; by Marfy. \ ' i • • ' 
Spring, by- MihicreV \ ; *' T 
Water, by Le Grcfc./ \ vi '* ; c 

Cleopatra, by Vandevev ^ 

Ontherfefcr: •- w ; 

Artemifia, by Le FeVre, 
C yparifia, by Flarhan. 
Venus, of Medicis, by Fremery, : 
The emperor Commodus, by Jouvenef* 
Jupiter, by Granier. 
Knavery, by Le Comte. 
Andromeda and Perfeus, by Pugte. 
Cinna and his wife, by* EfpignolaA 
The nymph in the fheli, by Coife*ox* 
Jupiter atid Ganymede, by LeFiroiu> 
Urania, byFfemery* . ; 

Commodus, fey Cowaux. 


Fauftina, by Renaudin: \ 

Bacchus, - by Grationv > 

Auwftj by Hurtefc \ v.v A 

i I Trigane* 

i flijgft <?W through, France. x 07 

Triganes, by Efpagnapdel* 
Antinous, byLaCrobf, 
Melancholy, byLe.^erdri^, 
Auy by Le Hq^re. 
Eveoing, by Eksjardins, 
Noon* toMftffy. 
Europe, oy ftlazelihe, 
Africa, by Guerin. 
Night, by Raon. , ', 
The earth, by 'Mpflbiu 
Paftoral Poetry, by Qranier, 
Autumn, by R aaudin, 
America, by Cornuu 
Summer, byHutinot. 
Winter^ by Girardop., 

The river Achelous* by Maziere. 
Pandora, vby jLe^Gros. .. 
Mercury, by Vancleve. » 

- Plato, by R^yQ/ : , .;'.-" 
Circe, by Maniefe, { '. 
Hereujes, byLjtCqmtc^., 
A 'B^chana£ by *j5e paeii." 
A fawn, by J~Ioufceau.. ,, x . 
piogei)es >; by Efpagn§hdel v , . . * 
Ceres, by Pouletier. . . ' *- 

Apolloni\jf, fry jVIcjfp. . .".,»,> 

liberates, by -,Gcanier,' . \ ' ' . 

Theophraftus, by HiutdL '. \ 

Lyfias, by DeCiey." T \ 

• F* * ; ""%irc S5 

>io8 , The Gentleman'* Guide 

Ulyflcs,* by Maniere^ 
The Ctfangerj*:* 

Lewis*XIV; by Desjairfins. 

An Ifis of touch-Hone, arttique;- - 
The north parterre : 

Venus the bafhfu V by Coxfcvbx. * 

The Rotator, by Freiiiery.' 

Heroic poetry, by Dntaillyi 

A phlegmatic per/on, by EfpagnamleL 

Satyric poetry, byBuiiter. 

Afia, by Roger. 

A fanguineperfon, byjouvenet. - 

A choleric perfon, bysHouzeau. 

The dragon Yfotratairu 

Fame writing the king's life, by Do- 
menico Gendi. 

Fauftina^ by Fremery. 

Berenice, by Efpingolal 

II. MAR L Y.< 

The palace of Marly is (ituated in a 
park near the river Seine, three miles 
from Verfeilles, and fifteen from Paris. 
It was built by Lewis XIV. and the 
celebrated J. H. Manfart drew the defigns 
of it. The body of the building is fquare, 
being one and twenty toifes each way- 
The four fronts are. equal, each with a 
flightof fteps, adorned with groups and 
' * - vafes* 



^a©s. ' The .palace contain* mt i&rge 
* pavilion, which is in.tfhe midftoftTOWe 
oti^rs of a imaller, fize. The principal 
pavilion cpnfifts of one great -halLiadie 
4bcm of an o&agon, which -you cntet by 
four porches : the whole building 1 it in an 
admirable, taite, 'as Welt as the gardens. 
There was formerly a fuperb-* cafdade,. 
which has been .defbdyed on account of 
the too great expence to fupply it. % Thc 
gre#t hall,? a R>otn iatnous'sbr its beauty 
and exttnvis fe tho Ionic orders and 
adorned wk3* fbardfitBneys, ^re* whick 
are painted the four feafons* . 

• Spring is by-Arnony>Coypeli 

♦ «Sun*mer, by Boulogne the youngeiv 
Autu mn, , by La Foffe. 

• And winter, 5 by Jfouwnet. 

The four porches which tead to tfefa. 
: Sn* -laloon, ate -adorned with, pi&ures, 
by Vandermeulen,. reprefenting the fieges 
«f feveral towns. 

In the firft porch, are Luxemburg, and : 
- the. taking of Luxemburg. 

In tht fecond porch* Maefekht, Cam- 
fcray. - • -• * 

In the third jporoh, Toumay, Gudt* 
narde. : : , 

In the fourth porch^Valenciennes and 
-* Douay. ■ * . * ' ' ^ w : , ... ... 

i jo Tie Gentleman* s Guide 

•, In the king's anti-chamber are to fee 
feen the caking of the following towns, 
by the fame painter •, viz. Narden, Lop, 
and Utrecht* 

In the chamber are the fieges of Ypr$s 
and Conde. 

In the cabinet, Salines and Joint. 

In thfc cabinet formerly belonging Jo 
Madame de Maintenon, he has 4U0 paint- 
ed Gray and Friburg. 

Martin the elder painted, in the apart- 
ment of the duchefc of Orleans, the fol- 
lowing places : viz# Rees, Orfoy* Wefel, 
and Fort Schenck. 

And in that occupied, by Madame de 
Mainxenon* the town&«f Aire and Duef- 

In the upper gardens, called Belveder, 
there are four admirable groups : viz. 

Mercury carrying off JPandpra, by Bou- 

The Laocoon, . Hercules, #nd: Diana, 
* call by the KcUens. 

But the greatrft curiofity of M**rfy, ris 
the admirable machine which conveys 
the water from Marly to Verfailles ; the 
chevalier de Ville.was the inventor of it, 
and a branch of the, river Seine turns the 
; wheels. ,.TJi» machJ0$ .xaife&.fa hundred 
and forty cubical inches of water to die 
; height 

in hti *£<mr through France. t if 

Iheightrof fixty fathom ; from whence* by 
-an aqueduft of five hundred fathom, it is 
carried into the refervoir of Verfailles : it 
is faid to coft the king five-and-twenty 
thpiifend pounds fterting per annum, to 
keep it in repair. 




Yincennes is an antient? caftle or palate 
fituated in the lite of France/ on the eaft 
fide 6f Parity ih the -rhidft of a wood, 
where the tkizens' of Paris -divert them- 
felves with walking and other exercifes." 
It w&s- begun in l|8|f by Philip Augus- 
tus, 1 ahd- the work * carried <>n by feveral 
princes, fonie of whom chofe it for their 
. refidctaceJ Under J fc#firis XIV. it was 
. repaid aftd beautified in 1660, when 
C W& cfthftru£io#s fcers-added towards the 
.]pafk» which cpnt^tin various apartments. 
-The attbke^ was f Lewis le \fyu ; and 
Manchole, an excellent Fkmiih painter, 
. decQtated the -kificte*. The palace has a 
fpwy^ &$}}>> wit& a ftately chapel, and 
pleafant walks •, it is alfo furrounde4 with 
a good ditch, a wall, and eight Iquare 
tbwer& ,^ Paris, 

wais planted by eardin^i Mazarine. 

t •"*• 

V The g^l!»y w* btrilt by Mary*df 
^Medieis, *rid Godwins- 4bme good'Jpaiiio- 
-jngs/ • ' • . -i. * '■ : 

-■The -ceiling of the 'kfhg^t apartment is 
^painted by Champ&gne* and the ceiling 
of the queen's, by Scve. 

Michael Dorigni, the fon-in-law of 
Sim«m Ifou&y was aUfo T **iiploryed there. 

The great gate towards the park is an 
"excellent piece of arehittttttwr, bftiiK in 
the form of a triumphal arch, and adorned 
■ with the Doric order. There is an oak 
'here, under which St. Lewis tifed to ad- 
minifterjuftice tohisfubje<5ls.- Thfe holy 
ehapel at Vincenrtes, « though a Gothic 
ftru&ure, 4s much adn*ife€L The glafs 
windows- were painted in a peculiar ma$- 

• ner by John Coufin ; and this k reckoned 
•an excellent ''thing in its-kind. /There i& 

; alfo a* very 4 ptafenf totftewt- bf MiniWs 
•» the fbrefr foond&^^&ttvk* VlJJ. 

* One of its principal <?ufi6fiti& %• ato'ex- 
« eellent pifture of the day : of judgment,. 

by f th£ above-fnentioned John Cofcfm, to bk feeh ih l the^fiferilty i *<S , dng- 
ihgtb thiatcoriveht.'' : i'*^' f 

• . .... i;-.x^ c ,: ... . - 

Meudon is a fmall town about fix mile* 
;4 ftfem Paris, remarkable for a royal pa- 


in hisVbur through iran^e*. i$$ 

lace, whfere the* late dauphin (the prefent* 
king's grandfather) uled commonly tx* 
refide. This palace (lands on an emfc 
nence in the midft of a foreft : it has * 
moft beautiful avenue that leads to ifc 
three quarters of a mile in length ; on the; 
right is a* -convent, with i pleafaflt garden* 
belonging to the : capiteMn, ^nd-^ri the 
left the vin<tytiftfe of iMfcudon. r The p*4 
lace was begun by Philip de L/orme, 
who built it for the cardinal of Lorrain * 
afifer^atds* it ' caiile into* the poflfeffion o$ 
M. ,J d^3bduvois; l At- the* deatfc ^jf thfa 
miififltety *£'■ king eX(fchAng€ftl^ &*&£f 
wp6n i! Sefn<^ 5*hfch fi h*i beeA left to *&$ . 
dauphin by M^emoiMle d'Qf leans, fct^ 
Meudon : the improvements'iiiade by hia 
foy# highnefc, rendered k'oAeW the* 
fineft rtHttendes^h^^Tranf^ Afrthaf, 
entrance of-'thp ^oAriy^thtfpiikcfe'tlfcr^' 
is a l^^^lle^f^btiiHiAg^n ^ ri^tay. 
and another brt -the* left; wHidfc open-k£ 
form of a femitircle, b&t are disjoined': 
from the body of the houfe.: • in the* mid- 
dle of the front ^ r a lpfcv^dva^qed build- 
ing wifh a 'pOTticoi 1 tmlchyou enter by 
three doors. Ab.ove. it runs an order of 
archite6luit, J c6nfifl&ig-oF archef and pil- 
lars finely deftgned, and above them' ans>- 
ther order, accompanied with pilafter/, 
' J * Th* 

114 The Gentleman's Guide 

The wings are not fo high as the principal 
building, and each of them is terminated 
by a fquare pavilion. The infide of this 
palace was adorned with the richeft fur- 
niture, and with a fine colle&ion of fta- 
tues, paintings, medals, and other anti- 
quities, which were removed upon the 
44ath of the late dauphin, and a great pare 
of them fent to his fon Philip, king of 
$pain. Martin the elder painted the gal- 
lery. The front towards the garden con* 
fifts likewife of a lofty advanced building, 
with wings confiderably lower, which ter- 
minate on the right and left* with two 
pavilions of the fame height, with the 
body of the building* The gardens, of; 
this palace are much admired for their, 
fine walks, parterres, canajs, and water-: 
works. Adjoining to the gardens there 
is a fpacious park, furrounded with a 
brick wall, and adorned with woods* 
batons, and refervoirs of water. The 
woods are cut through and divided by 
beautiful ridings. , . 


This palace is built in the form of a 
caffile, and furrounded with a dry, ditch* 
A magnificent (tone gallery runs round 


in his Tour though France. i f$ 
the middle of the whole ftrudture, which 
is of an oval figure, and the roof is co- 
vered with thin flat freeftone inftead of 

The chapel is remarkable for an ex* 
cellent altar-piece, reprefenting the Lord's 
Supper, by Pouflhu 

The profpe& from the caftle is admi- 
rable, especially towards the river and the 
plains, having Paris, St. Denis, and Marly* 
within fight. There is a curious mall in 
this caftle, with fquare pavilions built all 
along, for the conveniency of the players 
and ipeftators. Among the improvements 
made^ to this place by Louis XIV. he ad- 
ded the terras of above three thoufand 
paces in the great parterre, and the vai- 
ley-garden. There are abundance of dry 
grottos, which afford pleafant retreats in 
the fummer, and feveral wet ones, with 
curious water- works, and Artificial bird** 
which make an agreeable found. In one 
of the grottos there is -a' Virgin playing 
-on the organ, whole eyes ace to artificial^ 
ly moved, that fhe feems to be alive ♦, in 
another piace there is an Orpheus play- 
ing on the lute, and keeping dire, while 
thebeafts, birds, woods and *otks fetm 
to fallow him^ with feveral reprefentafions 
Of oheiike nature, all put into motion by 


*i;6 -&M Gentleman's Quid* 

yria&* The adjacent foreft cottons \xfr~ 
•wards of fivcthoufend acres, ancj is cut 
trough with ai* inflate number of large 
ridings, in the form of liars, which have 
.a poft fixed in the centre, withth^'name 
iQf the ftar painted thereon •, and is well 
replenifhed with gaoaSi whgohj renders it 
4< moft agreeable fituatKH* £w minting. 
Jt Was :i».thi$ cfeftteithffc.tbe late*kiflg; 
Jan*$ refided with his court during his. 

/Sxjk, - .. . c. 

1....L. .. .' . i- - 

r7(&: EON T A-I N£-B£»E AnU* 

%:n i */'»; it . ..*•■• A .. •]{■••: i)i .; 

•b-FdnflfihKbkau.13 -4 fiiUU <xwnio£<Jte 

jGatinois, m the ifleJafrFranee** & rcalksl 

4>ecaufebf it* fias waters.; it isiituated ip 

*he nriddle of a foreft three jniks frotfv 

itfre rive*&>irifc . Jtwcive ; from Meljan, ; *r£ 

ifpi*y-twQ : , fr<*n rati*. There: are only 

,three or. four -ft teds in the ttorn ,(*U filled 

cwith. Jmblic «im) which terminate in the 

cafcie. The French kings have chofen 

this for, a; huating-feat, by reafon- of 'its 

ifituation proper for that diirferfion.^ The 

caftkror jtekce contains. feme jaagntficeat 

:pU€8 ; yet: it is^ahtep irregular pi?CQ> 

Aaiing bc«n.bui^afc^^rhli6incs:witlKrtit 

any order orfymmetry/^Thie oldlpalace 

-wa» firifc built by laewfei Vili m A#fc 

.1- . ' but 

in hiS s &*fr i }hr*ugk'l?i2X\ct. i\-f 

Sut improved: by Itapcisi. Henry :IVv 
and chiefly by Lewis. XIV; As you ap- 
proach the pplkce, you pais thro' the court 
<*f offices to come tb the court of the old 
caftle, known % the* name of -Donjon, 
and built byitfhmcis L 'tiereryoa fkc tha 
front df the gtttett gate of the draw-Jmdgej 
ftipponed' by feveral -marble pillars, and 
fame orna*frcntal ftatueis. The architect- 
fiffe'Of this old < caftle i& muchetteemfed* 
Rourut the court there are a great many 
fmatt- turrets 'andg^terits-, hut<the great- 
eft a^k*frty<^ pari? of the buildings is 
a fmalk:abinet adorned with ibme beauti*- 
ful pidtures, and a chapel^ whofe ceiling 
ft adihkedfoi<its^workman(hip. 

From the old caftle you pafs on to thfc 
cGwt of fountains* Which is adorned with 
*- ! g#eat-many fin^ brafs and marble 
h&tfies j l^utlng Water. This court an- 
■fifrers to three fidgs of a building whidl 
form another palace, fo that there are 
four fcaftfe£or pal&ccs, and as many gar- 
^ns^in^FoHtainebl^aft. But this is moft 
^fteeiliecJf<*'the Ifcatfty of* it& apartments 
&Ad galfeftesi : T&?< hall of the hundred 
•Serifs is pfcihtteet iri^fco, by Prithaticio, 
l&aitre Roux^an&Salviati. * The gallery 
*^f the ftags ij a* hundred pates Ibng, and 
tfi8*$ all- alohg t$£ Waiigery y H *is> enriched 
i-vu* with 


M« The GentUmak's Guidt 

with paintings reprefenting all the royal 
palaces, and the fineft country-feats id 
France. Thefe palaces are feparated from 
one another by very large horns of (tag* 
that have beea killed in this foreft. Near 
this gallery yon fee another finall one, 
where Henry IV. is beautifully reprefent- 
ed with all his court in their hunting equi- 
page. Above is the queen's gallery, 
adorned with feveral pictures reprefenting 
the victories of the later kings of France. 
From this gallery you pais to the cabinet 
of Clorinda, enriched with beautiful 
paintings, containing the hiftory of Tan- 
cred and Clorinda* 

From this cabinet you proceed to the 
queen's apartment, remarkable ( for its 
ceiling and gildings ; afterwards yqu pafs 
through the queen's bed-chamber to come 
to the king's apartment, which is adorned 
with fome very good pointings, particu- 
larly Jocunda, anfi a queen of . Sicily, 
Leonardo da. Vinci, and the portrait of 
Michael Angelo drawn by hipifelf* From 
thence you pafs to the gallery of Francis I. 
where are feveral paintings reprefenting 
the hiftory of this pripce * but the ire? 
coes ar$ now very much damaged. The 
little cabinet towards the pool-garden is 
enriched with fome exquiate paintings* 


....__. J 

in his Tour through France. x r^ 
and the ceiling is admired for the elegant 
tafte of the carving and gilding. Next 
you muft fee the gallery of the antients, 
adorntd with the reprcfentation of feveral 
pieces of antient hiftory, which are fomc- • 
what effaced. Thence jrou defcend by 
the great ftair-cafe, fkcing the court of 
the white horfe, to fee the royal chapel, 
-which is called the church of the Trinity, 
and belongs to the Mathurin friars. The 
paintings of this church are by Freminet, 
a famous Parifian painter : the high altar 
is richly adorned, the ceiling beautifully 
gilded, and the pavement of the fineft 
marble. On a wing of the court of the 
.'white-horfe is the gallery of Diana, or of 
the labours of UtyflTes, where the hiftory 
of this hero is painted beautifully in frefco, 
by Primaticia 

After the apartments, you muft fee 
the gardens, whore the orangery is moft 
deferving of your attention. Among 
. feveral b'rafi flatties in the middle of a 
large bafori; you fee a Diana flopping a 
ftag by the horns, furrounded by four 
hounds; aHfcrciilest; a ferpent between 
two children: and a Cleopatra. The 
pool-garden w fdrrounded with feveral 
canals, which have very large fifh, spe- 
cially carp. This pool is bordered with 


:beautiftil. alleys, in the middle of which 

is an oftagon cabinet. Next you proceed 

.to the pine-garden, and thence to the 

iparteneof the great garden, where you 

have a moft beautiful profpefifc of the 

cattle. In the middle isu large teifan, ja 

* which there rifes an aquatic rock, which 

.pours out its. waters in a moft wonderful 

, manner. To the right of this parterre 

you fee a piece of water level with the 

.ground, in the middle of which is a moft 

beautiful ftatue of Apollo, The grottos 

and cafcades ace next to this parterre at 

the entrance of the park, which is, divided 

.in the middle fay a large canal. The 

-fine walks along the alleys of this par& 

are moft delightful, being inclofed with 

.palifades of a fitrprizing height, aad 

extending further than your eyes c4n 

reach. The forcft of Ftmtatftehlegu was 

. antiently called the foreft t>f Bievre, aiid 

contains upwards of fix-and-twenty thou- 

fand acres ; it is of a round form, and 

the palace ftands in the centre. . 

*■ * i ~ 

.. VIL St. CL OiUPi 

St. Cloud is afmalltown of the lfle f>f 
France, pfeafently iituated upon tjbo river 
Seine, about . fix: miles weft xrf Paris* 


. in his Tout through France. 1 2 r 

This town was ere&ed into a duchy and. 
peerage in 1674, by 'Lewis XIV, when, 
Francis de Harley, archbifhop of Paris* 
<and his fucceflbrs, were created perpetual 
<Iukes and peers of France,, with the titlfe. 
of St. Cloud. It is a very an tient place* 
and was originally called Nogent, whicli 
iiame it changed to honour the memory 
of Clodoald or Cloud, third fon of Clodo T 
mir, king of Orleans, and brother of Clo- 
vis II. In the collegiate church they pre- 
ferve the relics of St. Cloudy and theheart 
of Henry IV. who w$s killed here ir> 
1589, by James Clement, a Dominican 
friar. They have likewife a very good 
manufacture of earthen ware, <and various, 
porcelaine, ami a fto«e bridge over th? 
Seine, confifting of fourteen arches. 

But the principal curiofity of St. Cloudy 
is the palace belonging to, the duke of Qr n 
leans-, which, for fituatipn, wafers, woods* 
architecture, fculpture* and, payings, l $ 
reckoned one of the fineft in the kingdom. 
It is fituatsd at the fide of a i$o**ntain, at 
the foot of which the river Seine pfeafent* 
ly glides. The avejiue to the pajace \s 
ypon the declivity af the hill*, adorned 
with three fine walks of trees, having the 
town on the right; and the park on the 
left. Tjhis ,av$nue terminates st the baf? 
court, from whence you proceed to the 
G " great 

122 Tfie Gentleman' *>GuiJe 

great court at one of ,the angles, 'becaufe 
of the irregularity of thagrourid.«\'<The 
palace confifts cf a targe advanced build- 
ing in the middle of the front, and' two 
wings, each of them flanked with a pavi- 
lion. The apartments are extremely mag- 
nificent, and richly furnifhed -, the paint- 
ings efpecially are vaftly admired, being 
reckoned Mignara's belt pieces. Before 
you enter the guard-hall you may fee the 
Dilliard-room on the right, the ceiling of 
which is moft beautifully adorned with 
paintings and gildings. The great hall 
before the gaHery is remarkable for the 
amours of Mars and "Venus, repf dented 
iit feveral beautiful piatotts. The fa- 
mous gallery of Apatid>an(f h* ttorb'fcaflsV 
from whettce there 'U'tt fl^^%fcft^6f 
Paris arid *te . ddj«ertKoufttfy, ?*n?*te^ 
a place charming aitd pleaforit. The^ftiofc 
admired 'p^iwwcMs' gallery ar£ tfe 
royal tfefeofr^ birth «f 

Apollo ' jajich Bi«t*£ sthtt rifin£ fun, **he 
Zephyr* Afl*Jinb\the twtottiiAg dew, Au- 
rora m*%r * <h*utowxk Cttpitt fttewihg 
flowers Wfope fetfr y ; Apolta invferittngffttf- 
fie, CJ imenefflfefcwing pjiaetorf to the§tM> 
Ap Ho ariAaViftifei Circe artd C4*$d> 
Icarus falling, and erpccialiy thcfcuH&~ 

fon$ > 

in hi?? our through France* i £ $ 

ftns, which are exquifitely drawn. Of 
the'dght bas-reliefs in cameos in the gal- 
lery with gilt frames, the two largeftare, 
Marfyas challenging Apollo, and Apollo 
caufing Marfyas to be flead. The two 
leffer, are Apollo with the Sibyl kneeling 
before him, and Apollo with Efculapius 
by him. The other four bas-reliefs placed 
in the other half of the gallery, are the 
rtietamorphofis of Ceronis, of Daphne, of 
Clitia, and of Cypariffa. Towards the 
left of the further end of this gallery* 
there is a fmall hall, adorned with a ceil>- 
ing elegantly painted. The great cabinet 
is enriched with an infinite number of An- 
gular, and valuable curiofities, collected 
With great care andexpence* and ranged 
wjth the greateft order and tafte. the 
chapel is lmall, but Very beautifaL 

The gardens am^fppfed with* agteatf 
deal of art. Their fituation is quite charm- 
iftg ; for the river Seine running clofe un* 
der them, forms a beautiful and large 
canal* which water* a long terras, planted 
with rows of trees. Thcfe gardens are 
embellifhed with groves, fkloora, bafons* 
water-works, and efpecialiy w&h grand 
cafcades. TThe upper gardens are very 
fpadous : ttri the top of t&c hill there ure 
leveral large pieces of Water, distributed 
Q z intff 

x 24 *fh$ Gtftl wafts Guide 
into Spouts aridffceafs, and divcrfified m 
feverai manners. The ; park is almoffc 
twelve miles in circumference. The oran-. i 

feiy, the labyrinths, and the baibns*. 
ave each their particular merit : but the 
greateft beauty of all. are the two admi- 
rable cafcades, which are reckoned a 
matter-piece- in their kind^ and very well 
deferve the traveller's 'attention ; the high- 
eft was defighed by LePautre, and the 
fecond by J. H. Manfani 

Com p eigne, fituated about fifty miles 
north-eaft of Paris, is one of the moft an- 
tient palaces of the kings of France. Iv 
was repaired and beautified by Lewis 
XIV. The prefent king frequently re-< 
fides here. The foreft^ which contain* 
2,9,000 acres, abounds with game. <; T * 

Choisy lately belonged to the prin^eff 
of Contt, fecond dowager % it w^s called 
Choify Mademoiielle, becaufe it was for- , 
merly in. the.pofleflion of Mademqifelle; 
de Montpenfier, It belongs now to the 
king, who has improved the buildings 1 
and jtjii &a\l^£hony Le-Roy, (q that it- 
ceafes in £tim$ f vme^fu^e ^ be a private 
feat. TJie hoiife is very beautiful and, 
richly adorned. The : gardens are extreme- 
ly fine :. among : ot£er^ the eight ftatues* 

in his Tour through France. 125 
Copied by Aagjaicr, from antiques ac 
Rome, are greatly admired. 


Sce avx is a feat belonging to the duke 
"ef Main*. In Ac apartments and gar- 
-dens there isr abundant matter to .fatjsfy 
the curious* The Aurora paimed ijn the 
payillion, called hf the name of Le Brun, 
is by that famous artift, asarealfothe 
fine paintings in the chapel, where lie has 
reprefented the antient law fulfilled by 
the new. 

Clagny, ne^r VerfaUJes, . b a feat be- 
longing to the duke -of Maine's fon ; it 
Was built by Lewis XIV. for Madame de 
JMontefpan. The defigns are by Francis 
Manfart. The whole houfe is in a very 
good tafte* but the spurt and ftair-cafe 
are mpft ne&iarkabte. .The fmall piefces 
of canon in one of the halls are a prefeAt 
from the officers of the city of Paris to tfie 
duke, of Majne, when he was admitted 
great mafter of the ordnance. 

The houfe, which the prineds of Conti, 

fecond dowager, had at Iffy, is very fine, 

both in regard to the architecture, which 

i$ in a very good tafte, and to die forni- 

G 3 ture, 

I a 6 fke Gentleman 9 s Guide 
ture, which is extremely rich. The gar- 
dens are vety beautiful The nam& of 
the village of Ifly is faid" to be derived 
from the goddefs Ifis, who had a temple 

St. Maur is a feat belonging to the 
duchefs dowager of Bourbon. The tafte, 
the magnificence, andthe delicacy fb much 
admired in the palab ,dq Bourbon at Paris, 
which was^hfuilt by-.thjU princefs, may 
ferve to give us an idea of her country- 
feat. The fituation is extremely pleafant. 

Bagnolet belongs to, the duchefs of 
Orleans. The houfe is large and agree- 
able 5 the gardens are well laid out, aryi 
of a very great extent. . You cannot fee 
this houfe without a ticket, 'which is not 
difficult to obtain. 

The houfe of Conflans belongs to the 
archbilhop of Paris. The whole infide is 
magnificent, yet the gallery deferves chief- 
ly the attention of the curious. The gar- 
dens are extremely pleafant, and the little 
grotto that opens to the river, is inimit- 

There are few houfes in the neighbour- 
hood of Paris, equal to Maisons in mag- 
nitude and beauty. It belongs to M. de 
Maifons, one of the firft and wealthieft 
families of the law. The whole is re- 

in his Tour through France. i 27 
*nark,ably curjoi^ . and v among the reft, 
the j3ofcr on the garden T fide, which is 
.wrought. with infinite labour. The gar- 
dens .are alfo perfe&ly beautiful and very 

The . houfe of M. Croifat, , at Mont- 
morency, is o^e of the, pleafanteft in the 
neighbourhood of Paris. Befides the me- 
rit of the architecture, which is correct, 
the ceiling, painted by L,a Fofle, is greatly 
admired. This famous* artift has there 
reprefented Phaeton alking of his father 
to let him drive his chariot. It formerly 
belonged to M. Le Brun ; and the gar- 
dens, which arifwer to the beauty of the 
building, were defigned by him. In 
the church of Montmorency there is a 
tomb of the Conftable of that name,, 
reckoned one of the fineft monuments in 


From Paris to Lyons. 

YOU muft now (being fatiated, I pre- 
,. fume, with the amufements of this 
volatile city) refolve upon going to the 
Southward. , 

G 4 P°fl 

i2& ¥ht Genthmarfs Guidt 

Pdfi Road to JjYomfrom Pahis iy Mw« 



l *. 

Paris — •*- - 

Villejgif — - 

- Poft 


Fromentcau — 

_ 1 

. 1 

Effone — — 

— ; 

Ponthierry . — 

— ] 

. t 

Chailly — — 



— 3 

. t 

1 «? 

Bouron — 


Nemours — 

— ] 

r ■• 

Giandelle — 

— : 

La Groifiem ~ 

— - 3 

Fontenay — - 

— ] 

l*uy h Laude — 

. — * 1 

Montargis — 


La Commodate - 

— — . 

Nogcnt — * * 


Bezards *~ 


La Biuffiere ~- 

• -L— * r 

[ ' ' 

Belair — 


Briarre — «— < 

- "-*<•• 

-r ' • ' : f 

Ouflbn. — 


Bony —* 

^.. i - 


Neury ~ 


T '' ' 

La Celle * >— 


Cofne — J — 

* — 

T ...*i'. : 

Maltaverne % * — 


Pouilly .if -*- 

. _ 


. ,) 


in iis <£ovr through ] 

Prance.. xitk 


Idfeuyes - \ • "*«- i\ - *+*. 

,i / 

La Oja*it$ : '. •** •• ; . £ -^r- 


Barbeloup — — 


Pougues - - .-#•«• . . . -^-w - 

i .. . 

^NbVJBRS «^ t"-* .'.—». 


Magny * — » — r .. ■ 

li -:■ * 

Villars — : «. 


St. Pierre le Monftier — 

»..f. ..*■' : ; ' 

Chautenai ~ 

*_ • i 

Villeneuve -4-' — 

x t : 

La Perche — -.' • .-^ 

- 1 

Moulins — . N — • 

. .1 X 

Saimes — - 'i — 

-I — 

Beflay — ^*- ^ 

■ X-.. 1 

Efchiiolles — « 


Varennes — ; — • 


St. Geran ~' — 


La Palice — ? — 


Droiturier — i — 


Stii&dattisi d!Efij*aux- — 

. I., • ••.'- i 

PacoucTine *- - - 

i * .; . ; 

St. Germain L'Eipiaace 

•*£ • ' « 

Roanne — ' i - ^ 

•«"i. ■ • *• * 

St. Siphrorien de Lay- 


La Fontaine > — 


Tarare — *• • 


La Croifette ~» - 

» ' 

La Brefle v*- - 

..'« '• 

La Tour -*- - 


&+YVHS — 




X30 The Gentleman's Guide \ 

Poji Road from Paris to -Lyons, hyvtity 
of Dijon in-Burgundy : 59 Pqft&:>) 

Tou follow the preceding route as far 

as Fontainebleau* 


you turn off 

towards Burgundy* 



;. ' * 


*c » 

Moret — 


" f 

Fauffart — — • _ 


Villeneuve la Guiare i£ 

Pont fur Yonne - • 

x • 

Sens — ,-- — - 


• * . 

Villeneuve le Roy 



VilleVallier ~~ 

I ... 

: ♦- ." >' 



. * 

Baffeu - .u — 


:• ' r ' 



- , 

St. Bricfe r/ V •" — 

I ' 

/. I, *v. M 

' Verniantoh 7 ' --*•-:. < 


ItiA Chflife- 

: Pc^tTLiffani-- " + 

'w* • 

■'•' fc%ftss, '1 

Lucy le Bbis - - 

F ;, r ? -. 

r #♦ .• " - <■.•* -V ' 

Xufly les Forges- 


I j^ui)i:A*ly il 

Rouvray " "-'» ** 


/ '! / * .1 

Maifon Nfcwrfe' * 

v 1 ' ; '" 

'in. ,, ».• . ." 1 

r'Viteaux" X\ '*'*- «- v 


)• : « •..,.'* 

Chateiire * ]*•'•*• 

'*t' 1 

c : ;- '. »i'. • -» r 

-'Pont de Pauls r -♦' 


. v! ;,:■ -.' 

LaCude ■ »■- .*■ ■ 


• * % 1 

- -# ., - * . * 


in fiis Tour through France. 131 


Dijon - - . «* 
La Baraque - - 
Nuys - - - 
Beaune. - 

1 • .., 1 

1 > 


Chaigny , w r ., - 
Chalons t - - 

Sennecy - - - 
Tournus - - - 


i InaChaifej 

St. Albin - 

2 Poft and .a 

Macon, -_ - 
Maifon Blanche /' - 

St. George de Reoant: 
Villefranche - -. 

LesEchelies y> - 


La Chaux - ' - 


Lyons. >- - - x - 

jPoil RoyaU Le 

: i: There is alfo a piligcnce from Paris to 
, Lygns* thfijprjcf is 100 lhres each paf- 
' &Ag?r, 4or whicK the c;oachmai> beat* all 
: expences on the road* 
r Ifdefupusof travelli^;imQ.di?fomhp5n 
. parts of France, ir^ the leaftexpenfive man- 
. ner, youmuil take the route of Lyons, 
inftead of that of Orleans* whujth will fare 
.you gt leaft twelve guinea? •> for\I'ffiall 
. land you at Avignon, which feone^ hun- 
dred and forty eight league* from Parp, 
without travelling by ftteft any more than- 
'; •"" G 6" ••■' fort^' 

H$i • 3%/ GentUmatfs Guide 

forty three leagues, which is from Auxerre 
to Challon : was you to take the root 6f 
Orleans, you eouldnot poffibly return by 
water, as I propofe you ffomld~go •, for it is 
never pra&ifedon account of therapidity 
of the current, which frequently runs in. 
the Rhone, at the rate of feven or eight 
miles an hour ; and to travel by land is 
* extremely fcxpenftve, "and" would make 
"the difference 1 (if nor more) that Ihave 
above 'calculated •, "it is alfcr, in my opi- * 
nion, much more pletfant y as due agree- 
able company you krt' fure'ta mteet'with 
in thofe boats, 1 and "the Variety of -delight- 
ful profpe&s, l will make the time pafi 
joyoufly i and; all this, without thte fa* 
~tftrffe or 'being jolted in a villainous ftage- 
coacK^cbiitdining in general fourteen paf- 
fengejs^ ar *& & m fummer,. fuffpcated 
c wNfT thfc ; 83fe atid heat : reftlre W&fcfore 
f a^rfP^i^ii^thbd; as, believe* tie, 1t\* 
ThFRfc $6u ^an^utftie. The pattoni Af 
jthfifc .boats are always to be fbuhd^atPbfrt 
r j>t : fZfti; from/whbice thfejMgd three tefriea 
~a w£& ; to lAtixerfe, which is thirty tfette 
*J&y&s : 'fnitf'V&x^ they ^ei^oft com-' 
??<§? ibfy* d6tiftrii&<!d, 'beiiig' decked high> 
^inovlgli tq i V/^^dmler, arid fafhed oneaih 
"5^T^fcr*thfe^p r you # will only pay fHre 
^Wt^ 1 anxl'4' , lialf|)^nny a pbtintt tot yotir 

Tana a 4«df>5» : 'theyrh^w Dm hodesdbdi^g 
the bmt, na fails beiiig mode life of $ tWy 
>mU xircfs you a dirfnefr, , or fppper, c&r 
-twenty or thirty fi>Is* and 'imriifh ; you 
with good wine ; fo tfaafc-yoa may enjoy 
yoiTffeif as comfortably :as in ah cating- 
houfe. . . .». ; _...» ' 

Thdfe are the only boats Jthat do not 
ftop co dine ami lie * all tkc Daft that I 
fhall hereafer condud yxMiito, iioibot^. 
This fatigue may be .dtfparaftti /whh'for a 
couplcof nights, *s<it iaimotertiittiipHfr* 
bable you may ha*e a ^te&et&fcete (with. 
-feme oi the French fajdip% iwiw aoe ex- 
-tremely agreeable and eittdtainiiig. 

There are different apartments in* 
thefe boats * a»& ti^ywhorigo^inthdt in 
them, have always rtbe prefceenne, bs 
they may perhaps dn^rtwroviihhtliJtDf 
their paffengera l>e£brc: crikey (teach Jttetir 
journey's end. * . :. " ;.i.\i 

Having hinted ^atrtiieja^biiity stfhdhe 
ladies, 1 think it in^^ch^HyiBcktdTary 
to adv4fe you to be extrerndy - cautious 
in your^amoars, (if tawy you poopofc/)»: 

The adr of die feutherapancs ofl£naoce 

-fe warm andimpregnadng, coafeqoenriy 

the women extremely amoroos, and: the 

inajority of-them hafvoicia jrfieinpower jto 


; f$4 ' Zk&Gmttoum's Guide 

: confer upon you a certain favour, whkh 

• if it does not cofr you your life, may flick 
by you all your days ; it being reputed 

■ to be equally deftru&ive as that of the 
^Neapolitans *, the furgeons here make a 

very ierious affair of fuch an accident, 
- ^and will run you up a bill of fifty guineas 

before you can look round you ; fo that 
. a misfortune of this nature will throw 

yuur .frugality out of window, and fet 

• your conftitution on the wreck. 

You will no doubt be frequently *> 

• cofted in the ftreets,, by fellows who are 
i k>okers*out tabawdy-houies ; ;afldngyott, 

• if you want a jolie fiUe ^ and happy a*e 
they, when they can. lay hoW Qf an En- 
gliihenan, as the girls lay,, they bleed 

. freely +. the . rcwar^on thofe occafions, is 

to break your cane oyc* t&eir (bovjlders ; 

\ for many unguasded foreigners have- befcn 

• iedueed by thofe; notoric^ villains^ Into 
places from whence they h*ve never more 

' made their appearance, 

. -Jflrali fupppfc you now to be landed at 
; Auxerre in Burgundy, an. anttent, dirty 

town, built on the fide of a hill, md e*- 
o tremely ■ irregular, abounding , with mul- 
\ titudes of churches and convents, few of 
; which merit any notice. The btfhop's 

palace is reputed to be the fincft in 
\... '"; 'France, 


Otxmisl which, >M1 th# is ^pi^sfceri* 
The Petit-Paris is the beft in^iand very 
^onyenient* £s,,iMs j*ext 4ck#< t£ |he Bu- 
reau, from whence jfhe *£^ ; coactef fet 
. ,out: ijt fomet^e^v^a^p^s^^t yow will 
.be lObUged; tQrwak twq pr tjarre yjays'for 
itbfi «<#<& t :;&<?«$ -J^bftjfoe : <#f^ sjojl 
,ypu /JieyW ;!^ aJ#J?p,(wljiGh fl^ot likjejy 
.t^ bapp^ jgree f^.fo jftu&.ja/nq&tU- 
,afld tor thne$ liy»e& five fol^s [A day, you 
will be, accommodated Up^ yoyr ^wilji^ 
>ith a bottle of good burgundy ,at each 
pineal, if yoq qfctferit^ jfjQHy0q/Kp,ufe 
. this pr#q*utipi?, t^ey will probably qu^ge 
you dwbje tha$ fum~ -\> \ v. r . 
. ; Jnft<^4 of taking your place in the 
Chalons coach, I would, have you take it 
in. tjtfit of Pijon, which wilLcolt yow on* 
;\V: {9V*fm lij^^^by this^mewy^u ^il 
have the pkafure of feeing) that : .tptffi, 
; wh^ rb«ing th^ c^piital, /j*ras whcrp the 
< du£e of Burgiupdy kept his court befyf e 
. thaft province wsp united to the crowii.of 
^>wper M Here, tl}e/Fren$h J^nguage is 
fpoke \yjth greater propriety thap at £aris> 
^ or any othej t^n-, in^th^ (kingdom, ,jju> > 
. Blois Kfui, £fnn|eiJ£ ^^[M^^feputdtion. - 1 do 
not knew, ^ny ^own.^in ; j!^ce,.pre^ra|ile 
.. tothis x for, ^c.t^^^^P^^^^ 1 ^'' 
\ k ! ma** 

\#5 *tf*>{kkl&mm y sGaMr 
iHah» ^ 4ie has-perfe(9fcdihifflfelf i^tfe 
Trench torig*u£' <{ ::'* /.i»'-.""-iI:/£ i.": 
- r Airis * p&&m6ftt ttwti,- -twer -rtfeat And 
VJean \ : 'Tittot&l : 'lh 'a-fn»ft pleafing,. 
l K^ltf«y, »*itt <! '<*rtttriv<']Jkin, and hath. 
}deligKtfi*wallW bttth^thkisttd, without 
•Its-v^^-m^cfditefiiksnJre ttib&fceh, 
\here" ; *h9, 'fltf >fibc*ntod«& llivftoi you. 

-^3ioy,- ir wkh -the eouflMdt^bf the *>ar- 
fftarherit. 'There! are abundance <$£ge&*jry- 
'fire 'toere'on flemfer'fortuftes, -witfcf'the 
'Wd^tpftribri } ^ttkind^etf p«m8oHs 
y befetg e^ftii^f'^n^it^^togitk- 

tjemen of the towft»i^4^^!pettte' <a 

''ftrahgers, aiKiHatte ftahy>agi!fealflfe4rt!ufe- 

■ments ^whlch are -flot expo6fi%« i i in fcort, 

all its ItthabUktttlr'ffie^ di9h^a3kf and 

generofifyvtfeat 'I Wet*ntft' : *W*hift*ady 
: OtheV fcatt <tf!Frane\-V *-wl«>f<i «b '-wi-.I ' 
; TO^rfnefc of' Conis 1 n**'* l ptfere , 'ii* 
. '^hrcentefr' of t&? iown,:*ltffi1t'8idfc Aj$dH> 

ferae in fr^'tflJo^i^Xiyi^R H6rfe- 
*i?aefc } and, -abpviea^letiklant^-l*© has. 

ajfo -a mofc^elightrul p£k-,'%hfch alt 

-the gent*y frequent 1 '^- 1 K?liaa#T: ;<he 

'•walks 'are fc compTefcW^llUickd^a^ to 

yroteft yo»' endMyfiwrkihe'lbn--|h?ne > 
"'-whreh vwt>idd' J be-©thenWft e^cmefyin- 



in Ms Tour through France. 137 

Dijon is fixty-eight leagues S. W. df 
Paris, and contains about ten thoufend 
inhabitants* has no trade except for wmes* 
which are famous all the world over •, and 
in thefe their principal riches confifr. 
The hofpital, the Jefuits-hatt, the-Char- 
treux, and many other things,'are worthy 
obfervatioo, which the Nouveau Voyage, 
as I faid before, Wrill point out, without 
your afking a finglc queftion. 

Before you depart from this city, yoa 
ftould make a party, and vifit Befanjon 
•and Citeau •, the former being one of the 
ttrongeft frontier garrifons befongingto 
^France ; and the latter the richeft body* 
t>f monks in the kingdom, whofe revenue 
is fcarce known, but fuppofed to be hai£- 
a-million of livres annually, about 
£11375. This convent is only four leagues 
from Dijon, and obliged to entertain alt 
ftrangers with hofpitality and politenefs : 
they never eat meat, but you will fee at 
their table fifty difhfes of fifli, eggs, and 
garden-ftufF, ferved up in the moll ele- 
gant and delicious manner, with the moft 
exquifite wines that Italy or France can 
produce. Thus thofe ufelefs muck-worm^ 
live,' At yourdepirturefrom this convent; 
you areftrre to be attacked by perhaps aft 
huodrcd balf-ftarved, miferable objeQv 


13>8 %ht Gentleman's Guidt 

prancing after you in wooden fhoes, and? 
lcarce a covering to keep out the cold. 

You are now returned, and have taken 
your place ia the ftage for Chalons, which 
is fourteen leagues, and will coft you fix 
livres. You will dine at Beaune,. a town 
famous for little elfe than its excellent 
wines %. and a well managed comfortable 
hofpital, which has elegant apartments 
detached from thofe of the common 
people, ever ready to receive ftrang^rs 
of any nation,, who may chance to be 
taken ill upon the road \. he may fuit 
himfclf from twenty fols r to fi* livres a 
day, and is found medicines and advice, 
at the expence of the crown ; what he 
pays, is uippofed to he for the ufe of the 
furniture, the broths and other provifion, 
which he may have occafion tor. The 
fick are moft carefully attended by an 
order of women drefled in white, with 
diftinguilhing marks according to their 
fenionty, many of whom are young and 

Thofe nuns hold their profeflion (tho f 
we may, naturallv fuppofe it a very di^ 
agreeable one) the moft meritorious in 
life-, as, in obedience to God's ordir 
aance, they feed the hungiy^ojothe 
the naked, and, a/lift the diftrqlfea^ k 

in his Tour through France. ,i%$ 

You will fup at Chak>n$ v w^reyjpu 

will fee nothing curiojjsj except another 

hofpital, founded on the ffpie huinafce 

regulations as that of Beaune ; if you 

. have tipie* it h worthy your obfervation, 
as you will there find apartments for the 
reception of ftrangers, commanding the 
moft healthy pleafing profpedts ; and 
furni(hecl;j^ughpu^with filk and da- 
maik, the very lining of the rooms and 

„ bed covers not excepted 

You will be plyed on the quay by failors, 
fome belonging to the Diligencepar eau y 
fome to the Cache par eau% that .is* the 
Diligence by . water, and the coach by 
water; But by all means prefer the Dili- 
gence, as you are lure of better company* 
and quicker paflage. The price to Lyons 
is only eight livres \ the diftance twenty- 
four leagues. This machine is much 
more comfortable than the laft you was 
in, as you will flop to dine, fup, and 
lie ; and on the fecond day arrive early in 
the evening at Lyons-, where the Park, and 
Palace Royal, are the beft inns, and where 
you arc almoft fure of meeting with, fome 
of your countrymen, who are oti their 
travels ; ypu will be entertained *t either 
of thofo houfes in an elegant manner, 
(lodging included) fot four livres ten fols 

a day i 

140 the Gentlemen's Guide 
a day * which, though dearer than a* 
Paris, you mnft make a fh'rft with for the 
little time you intend ftaying in this maft 
extravagant town* Where a lodging room 
on the fecoftd floor will coll you at Icdft 
a guinea a months 


JDefcription of the *ify qf L*on% and feme 
ether towtn in the forth of France. 

V YONS, 1 60 teagues &W- of Paris* 
is buik on the extreme point of a 
peninfola, formed on one fide -by the 
Rhone, and on the other by the Saone ; 
both of which make a junftion a little 
below Lyons, and empty themfelves into 
the Mediterranean fea : this happy fitua- 
tion (being efteemed the center of Eu- 
rope) added to the indefatigable ingenuity 
and induftry of 1 50,000 inhabitants, ren- 
der it extremely commercial ; their ma* 
nufaftures confift of gold and iihrerftuffs'^ 
all manner of filks,: velvets, and laces ? 
filk ftockings, and various forts'tif wool- 
: fen goods : kistftee^ied'theTe^td?lty 
•in ( France 1 jand -yields <to # i»n8 44 (Wraept 

in his Tear shr&ugh France, 141. 
Paris) for trade, riches, and magnificent 
buildings ; the houfes (which arc com- 
puted to be 7000) are entirely built of 
free-ftone, and would make a noble ap- 
pearance, was it not for the extreme 
narrownefs of the ftreets, which are badly- 
paved, and ever dirty ; and the villanous 
ragged paper windows, with which every 
houfe (except thofe of the richeft mer- 
chants) is fo abominably defaced : there 
are the remains of a multiplicity of Ro- 
man antiquities, fuch as baths, aque- • 
idu&s, amphitheatres, &c, which, with 
ieveral convents and churches, merit no- 
tice : the cathedral is a fine Gothic ftruc- 
cure, particularly famous for its curious 
clock, and the variety of its motions \ at 
every hour, a cock at the top claps his 
wiings : thr^e times, and crows twice ,\ 
after which an angel coming out at the 
<ioof, falutes the virgin Mary, and at 
the fame time an Holy Ghoft ddcends, 
" ap4 animage of God the Father prefents 
itfelfviwl gives the benedi&ion: the 
Hand to the minute motion is in an 
oval* apd yet the point of the hand al- 
ways touches the edge of it. There are 
two principal fquares in Lyons, one called 
La Place de Louis le Grand, ornamented, 
in. the center with an equeftrian ftatue of 


i %2 *fht Gentleman 9 s Guide 

that king, placed on a lofty pedeftal of 
while marble, and furrounded by feveral 
beautiful marble fountains, which, in 
honour to his memory, play every holi- 
<ky : this fquare is laid out in pieafing 
walks, with a Ihady grove on one fide, 
which is much frequented by the gentry 
and citizens. The other fquare is called 
La Place des Terreaux ; where is to be 
feen the moft magnificent town-hall in 
France, and fome fay in all Europe : it 
is a large ftately building, in the form of 
an oblong iquare \ and on each fide are 
wings 420 feet in length j in the middle 
of the front is a cupola, and in the an- 
gles, beautiful, proje&ing pavilions •, the 
great gate is ornamented . with two co- 
lumns of the Ionic order, ahd leads into 
a large hall, richly ornamented with pic- 
tures ofthe kings'amj .qtiefn^ef Franc* ; 
the roof fioply pafittffU» ?he hofpital and 
charity houle are h^^dforhf, buildings, and 
laid to .contain ^o^ ; fouls, who arc 
maintained, without tbejftg arty expence to 
the city^ ,-by two^^rcjf-^tslihat. crols 
the Rhona to p*uphipe,| taking in each 
boat, a hundred ftaflenggrs, & a time ; 
the fare is a perajyfFrench, which every 
one pays with* ple^fom, knowing it to 
be fp well applied/ I was credibly in- 

in his Tour through France. 1 4j % 

formed that each boat collefted on a Sun- 
day, or holiday, 1500 livres, which an- 
nually muft amount to a confiderable fum 
in a catholic country : I fincerely wilh 
that the incojne arifing from the innume- 
rable ferries in England, were applied to 
the fame charitable ufe-, it could diftrefs 
no man, as they are always the property 
of the rich, and would be a comfortable 
fupport to the poor and decrepit in the 
neighbourhood where they arc. The in- 
habitants of Lyons eroding into Dauphine 
" is only done by way of recreation, as they 
in fo fliort a timetranlport themfelvesfrom* 
the town to the country. It is highly en- 
tertaining to fee the various inventions 
thefe happy people find out to amufe 
theriifelves ; and when tired, down they fit 
on the green, and regale with their cold 
collation (which they always take with 
them) in the moft pened tranquillity, till 
the dufk of the evening; then retire 
home, finging, capering and dancing.; and 
convincing the thoughtful phlegmatic 
Englifh, who happen to be fpe&ators, 
that they know how to tafte the enjoy- 
ments of this life ; into which we are 
moft certainly lent to be more happy 
than we, too frequently, make ourfeives ; 
or the dark gloomy atmolphere* which 


MM. <Tfu Gtnt lemon's Guide 

£> continually hangs over our heads, will 
fuffer us to be in our native climate ; 
though our heavy foods and liquors, 
add greatly to our unhappy hypocondriac 

The play-houfe here is ipacious, and 
richly ornamented with gilding, and glafs 
branches, all the leaning-places faced with 
crimfon velvet, and much more frequent- 
ed by gay dreffed company than thofe at 
Paris, and the a£tors efteemed equally 
good. Before you leave Lyons, vifit the 
convent at Croix JlouiTe > from the gar- 
dens of which you have a moil delightful 
and extenfive profpedt of the Alps, and 
the country adjacent to the city, which 
is moil beautifully variegated with rifing 
grounds, meadows, convents, country- 
feats, gardens, vineyards, &o* the whole 
forming the moft pleating topdfeape that 
the eye can pofliWy &efrqkL 
. Having fufficiently iatisfied your curio- 
fity, ypu will now, I.fupppfe, think oi 
taking your leaver and tfepatting for AvU 
goo, which is 48,kagufs 4tiwtf > you 
will i'^-the Diligtnw.pfir em equally as 
co$nn\odk>us as *£e laft ypu^w^s in ; it 
Hops to dine, fup y and lie \ and fotfight 
livres m\\\ conduct you thither in' great 
Safety in three. . days j. fothat you may 



in his Tour through Frahce. ^45 
ti&ly judge of the rapidity of the Rhone, 
as no fail is made ufe of, except now-and- 
then to avoid a fhoal: when you get a 
little below Lyons, you will be highly 
delighted with various and beautiful pro- 
fpedts ; the hills on each fide are immenfe* 
ly high •, caftlefc on the very fummit of 
feveral of them, which, tho* barren in 
themfelves, are made (by induftrious hard 
labour) as fertile as the iflandof Calypfo : 
here peaches, figs, almonds, plumbs, 
ne&arines, pomegranates, and, in ftiort* 
fill the fruit that can flatter the tafte, or 
pleafe the eye, are in the greateft abun- 
dance ; and vines heavily loaded under 
their purple produce, artfully hanging in 
fpftoons from tree to tree, and impofing 
on their more fturdy neighbours, a fa- 
tigue which their own weaknefs renders 
them incapable of fupporting. 

As foon as you pafs the bridge of St. 
Efprit, (which crofles the Rhone on 
tWty arches) a fine champaign country* 
(which is Low Languedoc) will open on 
your right, where every thing that con- 
tributes to ufe and pleafure, is in the 
greateft abundance; you will there fee 
olive trees, and vineyards in the greateft 
purity and perfection * the former of 
which (being an ever-green) renders the 
H country 

146 the Gentleman 9 s Guide 

pountry at all feafons moil pleating to th£ 
eye : though they are planted thick toge- 
ther, the wheat, and other grain that is 
fowed under them, comes to greater per- 
fection than any fowed in the open 
fields \ the ground never wants manure, 
as the fatnefs of the fruit (many of 
which efcape being gathered) fupplies 
that defeat. 

You are now arrived at Avignon, one 
hundred and forty eight leagues from 
Paris, fituated on the eaft fide of the 
Rhone : La Ville de Paris is the beft inn, 
where you will be accommodated in a gen- 
teel manner, (lodging included) for three 
livres five fols a day. This town, though 
in the kingdom of France, is governed by 
the pope, whofe vice-legate always refides 
there, in a palace famous for little elfc 
than its antiquities and fituation, as it 
commands a mod pleafing and extenfive 
profpedt, terminating in eminencies, diver- 
sified with villages, feats, fummer-houles, 
vineyards, meadows, and corn fields : 
this fertile country affords all the necef- 
faries of life in the greateft plenty, con- 
fequently draws multitudes of people, 
who live in great decency on very fmall 
fortunes. The town is furrounded with 
ahandfome lofty wall, built of free-ftone, 


in his "Tour through France, 147 

flaked here and there with fquare towers ; 
without which are delightful walks, where, 
on a Sunday or holiday, one is fure to 
meet with more pretty women than 1 
verily believe Paris can produce ; I own, 
I thought myfelf transported, by fome 
magic art, among my fair beauteous 
country-women ; on expreffing my fur- 
prize at fo pleating a fight at a public 
table, a lady who fat near me very polite- 
ly told me, that it was not to be wonder- 
ed at, as Avignon had been for many 
years the refidcnce of a vaft number of 
handfome Englifh gentlemen, who were 
obliged to fly their country with the un- 
fortunate chevalier in 1745 •, I told her I 
was highly fenfible of the compliment (he 
paid me, and was happy to find the ladies, 
under the protection of his holinefs, fo 
open and hofpitable to ftrangers -, that I 
efteemed it a great misfortune I was only' 
a paflenger, otherwife I flattered myfelf, 
that, in a little time, I might (by my own 
good endeavours) creep into fomc of 
their favours : fans doute, Monfitur^ with 
a fmile, and a roll of the eye, (which 
contained more than could a volume) was 
all the anfwer the enchanting goddefs 
favoured me with. 

H 2 The 

148 The Gentleman's Guide 

, The houfes are all built of free-ftone 5 
but the ftreets narrow and irregular ; the 
cathedral is a Gothic ftru&ure, contains 
vafk riches and admirable paintings, with 
many relics, and the medals of nine 
popes who have refidcd there. I -own I 
was fo ambitious, as to wilh myfelf mafter 
of St. John's head, which is in folidgold," 
ornamented with jewels, gold medals, 
&c. in the greateft prpfufion. I am per- 
iuaded I could apply it to much better 
ufe, as it is only expofed on certain faints* 
days, to be kiffed by fome thoufands of 
people, who come many miles on foot 
tor that purpofe, and are fo^fuperftitious 
as to think, they are by that means for- 
given all their fins* be they- ever fo atro* 
cious : to fpeak truly, they feem in this 
country fo wholly taken up with the .qare 
of their fouls, that they totally negleft 
the good of their bodies \ being often on 
their knees, when they ought to be earn- 
ing, their bread. - 

The police in this city is admirable ; 
in every quarter of the town* there is 3 
wiagiltrate always fitting to render juftice, 
as well to ftrangers, as the inhabitants ; 
over eyery baker's, butcher's, fiftunpng- 
er's, and fire-merchant's doors,, are the 
prices wrote up for thefe commodities at 
' * each 


in his Tour through France. 149 
each feafon of the year ; which, according 
to fcarcity, or plenty, are raifed and 
lowered by order of the council : there is 
a magazine of corn in the centre of the 
town, which is bought up when cheap, 
'and in cafe of a fcarcity, is opened and 
retailed to the poor, and poor houfe- 
Jceepersi, at the price for which it was 
bought : this praife-worthy regulation 
puts it out of the. power of thole rapa- 
, cious monopolizers of grain, cattle, and 
coal, to ftarve or diftreft the moft ufeful 
and laborious part of the nation •, who; 
like the ufelefs, inactive drones, devour 
the honey their induftrious countrymen 
have fo hardly toiled for. Surely, fucfi 
laws as thefe are worthy our imitation ; 
and I wifh I could fee them eftablilhed 
throughout England. 

This town, tho* extterriely large, con- 
tains only 9000 fouls, with an innumer- 
able number of churches and convents 5 
few manufactories, and little commerce, 
except in wines, oil, and corn, which 
are its chief riches. The Jews, who live 
in a particular quarter of the town, enjoy 
their religion in a handfome fynagogue : 
a privilege refufed them in France •, and, 
though fubjeft to heavy taxes, and diftin- 
guilhing marks, (which cuftom, and 
H 3 their 

i$o The Gentleman's Guide 

their own intereft have taught them not «r 
*fteem a puniihment; are in a very thriv- 
ing condition \ for moft of the trade of 
the city goer through their hands. Thr 
married men are obliged to wear yellow 
hats, and the women have their cap^ 
bunched out on each fide, as big as a 
penny loaf ; the batchelors and maidens* 
red hats, which when they crofs into the 
dominions of France, they immediately 

Your next trip i&to Aix, a parliament 
town, the capital of Provence, and only 
twelve leagues diftant 5 you will find every 
day at the door of the inn, coachmen and 
chaife boys plying- pafiengers, any one of 
whom will fet you down fcr fix livres. 
It is proper I fliould acquaint you, that 
between feveral towns you have now to 
tifit, there are no fixed ftages, therefore 
no ftipulated price * and it is the cuftom 
of thefe voituriers, as they are called, to 
afk a louis cl'or, when they mean to take 
one third •„ therefore never . offer them 
more, and you will find they will in the 
end take your money; there are fuch 
numbers of them continually pafiing and 
repairing, that if one will not, another 
will : I ihould again inform you (as I 
would not deceive my reader in any one 


" 12* 

in his four through France. jgt 
point) that thefe carriages are as decent 
and comfortable as our ftage coaches, 
fafhed on each fide, and calculated to 
hold four or fix pafiengers, and very dif- 
ferent from the Noah's ark before men- 
tioned ; the only obje&ion to them (if it 
can' be deemed one) is, that as they are 
drawn by mules they do not exceed thirty 
miles a day ; but this I efteem an advan- 
tage, in that pleafant climate, to a man 
who makes a proper ufe of his travels, as 
he has an opportunity, not only to make 
juft obfervations on the country he goes 
through, as to the nature of its produce, 
goodnefs of its foil, &c. but alfo at every 
town he flays at to dine and lie, he has 
time enough to infpedt the various curio- 
fities, and acquaint htmfelf with the ma- 
nufadtories, trade, riches, cuftoms and 
manners of the people •, which, by being 
hurried through, (as our nobility and 
gentry commonly are) in poft-chaiies, he 
-would be deprived of. 

* The :beft inn at Aix, is the Croix d'Or* 
where, for the fame price as at Avignon, 
you will be well lodged and entertained ; 
this town will perhaps pleafe you better 
than any you, have yet feen in France, tho* 
deficient in amufements, except when the 
parliament is fitting : in winter it is ex* 
H 4 tremely 

15* 27** Gentleman* s Guide- 

tremeiy pleafant, never too cold, but ia 
the fummer, hot, and extremely un- 
healthy : it is feated in a valley, entirely 
furrounded with lofty hills, which keep 

• off the refrefhing breezes that might other- 
wife make it pleafant and temperate : the 
wall round the town (being irregular and 
decayed) greatly offends the eye while 
without •, but when within, nothing can 
be more pleafant : the ftreets are well 

„ paved, ever clean, and of a great breadth 
and length ; the houfes are beautifully* 
built orwhite ftone, and moft of them 
ornamented with balconies and fculpture ; 
and, in general, exceed thofe at Paris.. 
The public walk is near a mile long, and 
extremely pleafant, compofed of fQiir 
rows of ftately elms, which form three 
delightful allies : in the center of the. 
middle walk are four magnificent foun-. 
tains, one of which difcharges water in 
great abundance, almoft fcaldmg hot,, 
which has many virtues, one of which is 
faid to be that of curing the moft con- 
lirmed p~x •, but if it has thi$ power,. 
Providence would have been kind to have 
placed one of equal efficacy in every 
ibuthern town in France. 

On each fide of this noble avenue, are- 
grand uniform buildings, in which thes 


in his? our through France. 153 
rtobility and gentry refide, efpecially ia 
winter ; fo that it is faid to be the gen- 
teeleft frequented provincial town in the 
kingdom : the town-hall, the parliament 
houfe, and feveral magnificent churches 
and, convents, are worthy your infpedtion. 
There arealfo feveral public libraries, 
a mint, a chamber of accounts, a court of 
taxes, and many other public buildings, 
where the affairs of the province are izu 
tied. To have an extenfive profpcct of 
the town, and th? country round it, you 
fhould vifit the Couvent des Freres Pre- - 
cheurs, from thence you will diicover the 
hills covered with vines and olive trees 5 
the yplains and vallies, diverfified with 
jpeadows, . corn fields, and terpentine ri-'- 
vers ; and bordered with trees, which 
make an agreeable verdure, almoft tfo 
whole year. 

x Aix, tho* large, is not peopled in pro- 
portion -, fcarce any manufactures, anci * 
little trade, except and oil, which » 
are very excellent. You will find cap* 
riages at your inn, fettingout every hour ; 
for Toulon, which is" fixteen leagues 
diftant ; in any of which, you may get .a 
paflTage for eight ljvres, to the Croix dc 
Malta, which is the beft inn in that town 5 
you will no doubt be aftoniflied at the dirt 
H 5 and* 

154 The Gentleman's Guide 

and poverty that prevails in this garden 
of France, as it is termed, only (as I ap- 
prehend) becaufe oranges and lemons grow 
there, and almoft in as great perfection* 
as in the Weft-Indies : the people, by 
their rags and meagre yellow look, fhew* 
very confpicuoufly, the mifery that reigns 
amongft them, proceeding more from the 
barrennefs of the country (which is moftly 
rocks and pebbles) than their own indo- 
lence, though a perfon, who did not* 
make enquiries,, would think their dif- 
trefles partly owing to that-,, for they 
fcem a flovenly people, in having piled* 
up againft every houfe a great dunghill :• 
on my-enquiring into the reafon of this 
unhealthy and indecent pra&ice, I was- 
informed, that they had no other method 
of making manure for their land, than* 
by fpreading ftraw in the ftreets* which 
was ground to pieces by the carriages 
frequently pafling and repairing. 

For fome miles before you reach Tou- 
lon, youwillcrofs the fame chain of moun- 
tains which form the Alps. •, a road that, 
had I not feen it, I fhould have fcarce 
thought the world had produced fuch a 
one. This road is in many places ex- 
tremely narrow, being cut out of the folid 
tock, which is. of tea jOQfeet.perpendicu*. 


in his Tour through France. 15$ 
fer above you, and feems to threaten de- 
ftroition to thofe who pafs •, for on the 
other hand, in a deep gulley, lie many 
large pieces of the rock which the heavy 
rains have loofened and wafhed down, and 
during this feafon it is fcarce prafticable 
to travel at all. 

On the tops of feyeral of thefe barren 
rocks, are villages and caftles, which arer 
often feen above the clouds •, and to come 
at them, the inhabitants are obliged to 
make the circuit of the hill many times. 
Here were places to retreat to in the time 
of the civil wars, and are ftill inhabited, as 
the air is pure, and the fky-larks enjoy 
perfeft health upon them. When you are 
with'n a few miles of Toulon, the whole- 
face of the country wears a moft joyful ap- 
pearance, though thofe lofty hills are ftill 
feen ; but then they are clothed with ever- 
greens, fuch as oranges, leniona, ©lives y 
and fig-trees, which are fo delightfully 
interfperfed with country-feats and vine- 
yards, &c. on- the one hand, and a moft 
extenfive view of the Mediterranean on the 
other, that the whole forms the moft beau- 
tiful profpeft imaginable. You enter Tou- 
lon over, a draw-bndge, through a moft 
magnificent gate, ornamented with tro- 
phies and infcriptions in honour of Lewis 
H 6 XXV,. 

i $6 The Gentleman's Guide 

XIV. The town is ftrongly walled in, has?" 
a wet ditch, is well fortified, and feems : 
capable of making an obftinate defence,, 
as there is no rifing ground within (hot,, 
or ihell, that can command it, except the^ 
enemy was in pofleffion of the harbour,; 
which, I was informed, was ftrongly de- 
fended : I would have examined the for- 
tifications towards the fea, but it was re- 
fufed me : the town is final), but well in- 
habited ; the houfes neatly built of white 
ftone •, the ftreets narrow, but regular *., 
well paved, and ever clean, occasioned 
by the many fountains which conftantly 
walh them, and carry all the filth and dirt 
into the harbour, which they told me had 
totally deftroyed the worms which were 
formerly fo deftrudtive to Ihips bottoms. 
This, though a garrifon town, ha$ no bar- 
racks, fo that the foldrars are all billetted 
on the inhabitants : they have a fpacious . 
fquare in the center of the town, ia which 
they daily perform their exefctfc, The 
king's yard may appear curious to thofe 
who have frequented thofe place* lefstjhan- 
I have \ but I think it vaftly inferior to any 
of our capital yards : what merits to be moft 
admired, is, the harbour, and two beautiful 
moles, where 200 fail of fhips may lay in 
the greateft fecurity, perfc&ly land-locked, 


^ in hisfmr.thr&tfgKVxaxixic: rgf 

arid the great propriety and exa&nefs_t her 
different ftiips of war- obferve when they- 
rjg, or difmantle ; each has her refpedlive 
ftore in the inner mole ; her name wrote - 
over the door oppofite to which lhe may 
come at all times (there, being no tide) 
and either receive, or deliver her ftores ; 
totally avoiding the confuiion and delay 
1 have often feen in our dock-yards, by 
mixing them confufedly in aloft together,,, 
trufting wholly to a tally, which often . 
breaks off. Their guns and anchors are 
ready; <m th^ wharfs ; their calks put on- 
bpard empty, then (lowed, and filled by 
pipes contiguous to the water-fide -, they 
told me, they could equip twenty fail of - 
the line in. three days > but that I could 
never believe* except they had. Englifli 
feamon to {hew them the method-, in 
which c^f© certainly tljefe .conveniences . 
wQukl greatly expedite an attempt of that 
nature. It is ijppofijble fqr ^n Englifh- 
man to fee,, without the greateft pity and 
companion* thfcfc poor unhappy men calle4 
galley flaves* chained by the leg together, 
and their chains of a mereilefs weight; 
many of whom have been guilty of no 
other crime thah fmuggljng three or four 
pounds of tobacco, 'oiffalt, or perhaps 
killed a partridge, pheafant^-or hen, (to 
: hinder* 


\$t The Gentleman** Guide ' 

hinder their families from ftarving) on the 
eftateof fome tyrannical defpoticfeigneurr 
cruelty of this nature, for fuch flight of- 
fences, is certainly flying in the face of 
our moft merciful Creator, and moft pro- 
fanely proftituting die power he has been 
pleafed to inveft in the great, over the reft 
of their unhappy fellow-creatures ; and to 
add to their mifery and affliction, they are 
obliged to do all the flavery in the king's 
yard, that the horfes do in ours..; and 
have no other food to fupport their hard 
labour* than a pint of peafe, or califaners, 
per day, with a pound of bread, and wa- 
ter to drink, and at night they are cram* 
med into a galley, which lays afloat, and 
contains (as they told me) fourteen hun- 
dred of them ; lb we may fuppofe, they 
have as little reft in the night as the day. 

As a friend to my country, I fliould be 
very forry to fee flavery introduced, or 
any other arbitrary power that could in* 
thle leaft degree violate, or curtail, the li- 
l>erty an Englifhman claims as his birth- 
right : but upon: a ferious consideration* 
I am fully perfuaded, that had we a num- 
ber of gallies ftationed at the different? 
ports belonging to. his majefty, to receive 
the multitudes of fturdy malefactors* 
(many of them in the prime of life) who 


in his Tour through France. 1-59* 

are annually executed in England, Scot- 
land, and Ireland, it would be attended, 
with the moft happy confequences to the 
public, as, no doubt, the dread of flavery 
in a country where liberty is, and the fee- 
ing the feverities people in that fituation 
muft fufFer, would be more likely to pre- 
sent the innumerable thefts and robberies » 
which are committed, than thefe fo fre- 
quent executions •, for it is plain, that 
thefe unhappy people, take very little 
care about the iafety of thfcir fouls ; and 
whoever has attended 'at an execution, 
muft have perceived, that the fear of. 
death gave them very little uneafiriefs. 

You muft agree for your paflage from 
Toulon to Marfeilles, which you might 
with greater pleafure perform by water, 
(as you go back almbffcthe fame road you 
came) was it not for /the danger of falling 
into the hands of die Algerine \C#uizersi 
who are at war with France; Tke dif- 
tance by land is ten leagues, forwhibh you 
will pay fix livres. MaHSillefc is 169* 
leagues from Paris* fituated in a bottom, 
encompaffedon the north, eaft r and weft j;.;-y 
fides by a lofty hill, at the riiftjince of; 1 ' 
about two miles : on the fouth^is a '1x19$: 
convenient harbour, where the fhip&b^ihg ? , 
land-locked* ride in the moftptffoft fcf& 


10a The Gentlematfs Guide 

ty, and come clofe up to the merchants 
doors •, the paffage is fo narrow, and wa-- 
ter fo fhallow, there not being above fix- 
teen feet at the harbour's mouth, that a 
king's frigate cannot venture in with fafe- 
ty •, the entrance is well defended, having: 
a citadel on one fide, and four tier of guns 
on the other : there are feveral iflands, arid 
a large bay without, where ihips may ride 
as fate as at Spithead : on the land fide, 
the town appears to me incapable of mak- 
ing any defence •, the. wall with which it is 
enclofed, is tumbling to ruins, and there 
are feveral eminences that command it, 
which are in much lcfs than point blank 
fliot : this town is cfteemed only fecondary 
to Aix, which is called the firft city of 
Provence, though this is confiderably the 
moil important in point of trade ; it is 
large, rich, and is faidtohavc been a town 
^oo years before the birth of Chrifi ; it is 
divided into the old and new towns-, the 
former ftands on an eminence, and con- 
fifts of old buildings, and narrow ftreets ; 
but in the latter, the haufes are magnifi- 
cently built with white ftones, and, like 
thofe of Aix, adorned with fcuipture and 
balconies-, the ftreets are broad, well 
paved, and ever clean : the public walk 
is in the center of the low town, a Wile 


in his Tour through France. 1 63 

m length, and extends from the gate of? 
Toulon to that of Aix ; it is well (haded 
with lofty trees -, and on each fide are 
beautiful houfes, in which the principal 
merchants refid'e., The inhabitants are 
fuppofed to be thirty four thoufand, tho* 
before the plague which happened in 1 720* 
they counted almoft double that number^ 
Their manufa<Stures confift in gold arid 
Giver fluffs, filks and laces of all forts*: 
filk ftockings, woollen cloths, fluffs and 
ferges : they alfo export great quantities 
of wine, oil, and wool, and by their ad- 
vantageous fkuation, have engrofled the* 
greateft part of the trade of the Levant/ 
The cathedral (which they tell you was a 
tfcmpleof Diana) is richly ornamented* and f , 
with feveral convents, churches, the mint,, 
change, arfenals, -town-hall, armory, aca-* 
demy of polite arts, and obfervatory, me- 
rits notice : from the latter you have a, 
raoft extenftve view of the Mediterranean, 
and that delightful plain on the land fide- 
ot the townv which forms a half moon ; 
and is laid to contain no lefe than twelve, 
hundred country feats, interiperfed. with; 
gardens, vineyards, olives, and all other 
forts of fruit trees ; it appears more like 
a town than the country,, which greatly. 
fe&e$ off the |>leafiim of it* profpeft, be- 

162 The Gentleman's Guide 

tng confined (as I faid before) by a higfc 
chain of rocks, that nearly encompafs the 
town. The galley flaves feem to enjoy 
more freedom here than at Toulon, as 
many of them (though heavily chained) 
are allowed to work for themfelves, and 
have little Ihops on the quay : I was told 
this indulgence proceeded more from pe- 
cuniary views, than humanity ; as it put* 
a confiderable fum of money annually in- 
to the admiral's pocket ; be that how it 
may, I was glad to fee it. The beft inns* 
are the Croix de Malta, or la Nouvellfe 
Rofe, where, for four livres a day, you 
will be well accommodated. 

This is a gay amufing town, and fre- 
quently the fefidence of travellers forfome 
time ; fhould you chufe to add to that 
number, you fhould take out at the play- 
houfe an abonnement, that is, a ticket, or 
agreement, on which your name and the 
day of the month are inferted : this will 
only coft you eighteen livres, and, fhewn 
to any of the keepers of the different 
lodges, will (during a month) give you 
free admittance to whatever feat you chufe 
through the whole houJe; and if yoi* 
pleafe you may change your box between 
every a&, which is the cuftom of the 
French gentlemen, ^xcepf they aie accom- 

in his Tour through France. 1 6$ 
panied by ladies : this method will fave 
you one half, therefore you fhonld ever 
pra&ifeitinevery town you propofe flay- 
ing any time : you fhould often frequent 
the plays* as it is not only a cheap, inno- 
cent way of pafling a long winter's even- 
ing, but will give you (with proper atten- 
tion) a great infight into the French larw 

The next town you have to vifit is 
Aries •, to come at which, you mud go 
thro' Aix, five leagues from Marfeilles : 
this town is 153 leagues from Paris, is 
fituated on an eminence, on the eaft fide 
of the Rhone, and abounds in Roman an- 
tiquities : it is an unhealthy fituation, be* 
ing almoft furrounded with a low marfhy 
country : its chief trade confifts in wool, 
corn, wine, and oil, which are conducted 
from thence into the Mediterranean, by 
tartans, polacres, and gallies, that come 
clofe up to the town : this being a tedious 
navigation, (occafioned by the rapidity 
of the Rhone, which always runs to the 
fbuthward) prevents its being frequented 
by any fliips of burthen. The cathedral 
and town-hall, are fuperbftrudtures ; the 
former, richly decorated within,* arid the 
latter, elegant, regular, ami finely fituat-. 
ed - p it is of a fqiiare form, adorned with 


t64 The Gentleman 1 s Guide 

three orders of architecture, one above the 
other-, the portico is magnificent, and 
embellifhed with the bulls of the counts 
of Provence; and the roof fupported with 
twenty double columns. Among the 
numerous antiquities, are the ruins of a 
Roman amphitheatre, fuppofed to have 
been built by Julius Caefar. 

There are alio the remains of a circus, 
confiding of a door with two columns of 
marble of the Corinthian order ; a Ro- 
man capital •, and a large colleftion of 
Roman tombs, monuments, urns, &*c. 
Near the city are what they call the Ely- 
fian fields, where the Romans ufed to* 
bury the alhes of their dead, and they are 
now made ufe of as a churchyard* This 
city has a communication with Langue- 
doc over a wooden-bridge, placed on 
flat -bottomed boats, oppofite the town : 
die Lyon D'or, or the Dolphin, are the 
only inns ; where, for three liv res five ibis, 
a day, you wilt be well accommodated. 

In coming from Aix to Aries, you will 
erofs a moil extenfive plain, without a 
houfe, tree, the leaft verdure, or any. 
thing to be fcen but pebble ftoncs : they 
told me the Tea had formerly been there,, 
and that it continued equally barren for 
near three thoufand. acrgs •, yet what is 
. . - ■ * mofti 


in his Tour through France. 165 
fhoft fuiprifing, is, that it turns 6ut more 
profitable to the proprietors, than if it 
produced wine, or corn, in the greateft 
abundance, as it is entirely covered with 
fheep •, which, though ever fo poor, be- 
come fat in three weeks time, on a little 
white flower, ever in bloom, which grows 
underneath the ftones •, to come at which 
they are obliged to fcrape with their feet : 
it alfo gives the mutton fo fine a flavour, 
that it is fent as prefents, when killed, to 
a great diftance, as we do venifon. 

Your next object is Nifmes, which is 
five leagues diftant, and 14,8 leagues from 
Paris : the fituation of this town is ex- 
tremely pleafant, having on one fide, hills 
covered with vines and olives, and on the 
other, a fine country, fertile in all forts 
of grain. According to fome hiftorians* 
Nifmes. is 580 years older than Rome, 
and was formerly reckoned the largeft 
city in Europe, There is no city where 
there is to be found fo numerous a col- 
lection of Roman antiquities : the amphi- 
theatre, the fquare houfe, the temple 
of Diana, the great tower* feveral ftatues, 
and a multiplicity of inferiptions, are tes- 
timonies of it. The amphitheatre is cer- 
tainly a work of the Romans, and was 
built (according to appearance^ during 


\66 the Gentleman's Guide 
die empire of Adrian ; it is of an oval 
form, with two ranks of arches placed 
one over the other* each compoied of 
fixty arches, which make 105 fathoms in 
circumference ; there are four principal 
entrances, placed north, eaft, ibuth, and 
weft : this building is compoied of ftones 
as hard as marble, and put together with- 
out mortar : the middle (which ferved for 
the gladiators, and warlike exercifes) is 
one hundred feet diameter, and atprefent 
filled with fmall houfes •, on many ftones 
of thisfuperb monument there are inferip- 
tions ; alio, a wolf lucid ing Romulus and 
Remus *, and a reprefentation of the gla- 
diators engaged. The fquare houfe is 
twelve fathoms long, fix broad, and twelve 
high, richly ornamented with ftone pillars 
of the Corinthian order. The moft able 
architect that France ever produced, de- 
clared he neVer faw fo perteft, and high : 
finilhed a piece of work ; and added, that 
to this he was wholly indebted for the art 
in which he excelled : as it is built upon 
a height, you afcend to it by a grand flight 
of fteps, and is at prefent converted into 
a beautiful church, belonging to the 
Auguftines. The temple of Diana is an- 
tient, and of great magnificence ; it is or- 
namented with ten marble pillars of the 


in his four through France. tfy 

Corinthian order; a beautiful cornifli aH 
round, and feveral fuperb ftatues in mar- 
ble, many of them quite perfect •, yet what 
is molt aftonilhing, is the ceiling, which 
is formed of (tones fix feet long, three 
broad, and eighteen inches thick, without 
the leaft vifible means to fupport them; 
The grand entrance is to the eaft : to the- 
north and fouth, there are covered allfesj 
through which they condu&ed the viftims 
cleftined to be facrificed, without incom- 
moding the prieft or congregation. They 
are entirely ignorant, by whom, or at what 
time, \t was built. The great tower is fitu- 
ated on an eminence near the temple ; it 
is at prefent much decayed, and in ruins i 
they fcarce know to what ufc it was ap- 
plied, except to lodge prifoners of ftate, 
or the public treafure : near to it is a large 
piece of Roman pavement, which is very 
perfect and beautiful ; being formed of 
different coloured (tones, it refembles 
much a Turkey carpet. 

The fountain of Nifmes takes its fburie 
near the temple of Diana ; where (from 
the centre of a fmall pool, not fix yards 
in circumference) there boils up water as 
clear as cryftal, in fuch abundance as to 
fupply the town, a vaft number of mills, 
and form extcniive canals, bafons, and 


t£8 The Gentleman's Guide 

cafcades, beautiful beyond expFeffion, ,£# 
-built of hewn ftone j walks formed, trees 
planted, in the mqft uniform manner ima- 
ginable ; fo that, in (hort, neither expence 
or pains have been fpared to fender the 
whole the moft complete high finiftied 
work throughout the kingdom. 

The inhabitants are computed to be 
40,000, the houfes tolerably built of hewn 
ftone, but the ftreets narrow, and irregu- 
lar; there are fcvcral beautiful walks, both 
within. and without its walls. Their ma- 
nufactures chiefly confift in filks, filk 
ilockmg3 and woollen goods. The cita- 
del is walled in, has a ftrong tower at 
each corner, and two battalions of horfe 
and foot are commonly lodged there : 
the curious traveller fhou Id, by all means t 
vifit a magnificent : houfe, called the Ca- 
verac*. and the Pont du Gard, which is 
three leagues off: tjie former has ruined 
feveral Qf its owners, .having coft them 
(as they fay) to ornament it, from time to 
time, fixteen millions of livres. The 
Pont du Gard" appears to have been con- 
ftrufted foon after the amphitheatre of 
Nifmes, to conduit the water from the 
fountain of Aure to that city : this aque- 
duct is nine leagues long; and where it 
croffes the river Garon, and in a valley 



in his Tour through France. 169 
between two lofty mountains, is extreme- 
ly curious, being built like three bridges 
one on the other ; the firft is compoled of 
fix arches ; the fecond, eleven ; and the 
third, thirty-five ; and the height of the 
whole amounting to 182 feet: there is no 
infcription by which the world can judge, 
by whom, or in what time, this magnifir 
cent monument of antiquity was built ; 
there are thefe three letters, A. E. A. of 
which nothing can with any certainty be 
made. The beft inn at Nifmes, is the 
Horn, where, for three livres five fols a 
day, you will be well entertained. 

Your next trip is to Montpellier, which 
is eight leagues diftant ; your carriage 
thither will coft you four livres ; you will 
ftop to dine at Lunel, where you may vifit 
the Port, as they^call it i there you may 
form to yourfelf fome idea (from the mul- 
tiplicity of barges coming and going) of 
the riches that accrue to this province, by 
the afliftance of a fmall canal, which has 
a communication with the Mediterranean 
fea, owing to the fmall expence at which 
they transport their corn, wine, oil and 
manufactures wherever they pleafe> and 
without which conveniency, it would be 
impra&icable : you will arrive early in the 
I evening 

1 70 The GtntlemarCs Guide 

evening at Montpellier, where the beft inns 
are the^Petit Paris, and the Cheval Blanc. 
This town has been long famous for 
(what I, and many of my countrymen 
fadly experienced, it d?es not in the leaft 
decree poffefs) a ialubrious air, and fkil- 
f u f phyficians : I pafs'd fix months there, 
at a very confiderable expence, on pro- 
fnifes of having my health perfectly efta- 
blifhed •, when, to my great concern^ af- 
ter having gone through all their various 
operations, I found, in the end, my health 
much impaired. I can acquaint my coun- 
trymen, and indeed I think it my duty 
to do fo, that the climate of that town is 
fo much altered for the worfe, that the 
inhabitants themfelves fcarce know it to 
be the fame : it has been changing thefe 
ten years, and every year becomes worfe 
and worfe. I declare, upon . my honour, I 
have known it rain almoft. three months 
without intermiflion ; and at intervals fuch 
thick (linking fogs, as nothing but the 
banks of Newfoundland could equal ; and 
feveral times, for three or four days on a 
ftretch; the fky fo heavily loaded, that I 
have neither been able to fee fun, moon, 
or ftar •, and the ftreets quite wet with 
the humidity of the air. In fummer it is fo 
infufferably hot, that till the cool of the 


Hn his Tour through France. 17^ 
^evening there is no ftirring out. Its fi- 
xation, though on an eminence, in my 
opinion, could never have been healthy ; 
./as between it and the Mediterranean* 
(which is about three leagues diftant) it 
is one continued marlh and fwamp ; ever 
.covered with noxious vapours, which* 
« when the fea breeze fets in, blows dire&ly 
.on the town,, and the country adjacent; 
. the fad effe&s of which, its unhealthy in* 
habitants, with their yellow meagre looks, 
are the moft convincing proofs. The 
j^hyAcians may be good, but I own none 
-of us, while I was there, fpund them fo* 
though we tried their flail •, and what is 
ftill more ftrange is, that they will allow 
the. Englifh phyficians no merit at all, and 
feem, merely from a fpirjt of contradidtion* 
to adt in dire6t oppofition to them. In 
England, I was ordered (my diforder "being 
nervous) the cold baths at all feafons* 
with other reftringents •, inftead of which* 
thofe judicious French-bred phyficians* 
put me into the hot bath, an hour at each 
time ; repeating them fuccefjively* till they 
, amounted to.fixty ; ftill perfifting, though 
I often fainted in them* and when out* 
fo much relaxed and enfeebled by them, 
that I had not ftrength to, crofs the room ; 
and at the fame time kept me on a half 

I 2 fhuVd / 

172 The Gentleman's Guide 

ftarv'd diet ; forbidding me wine, or, in 
fhort, any thing that was comfortable to 
life. They pretend to be very famous at 
curing La Verole, without falivation ; but 
I can aflure the world, that three Englifh 
gentlemen, after going through their dif- 
ferent teazing operations, went away quite 
difiatisfied, having the fame pains, and 
other excruciating fymptoms, that ever at- 
tend that diabolical diforder. Let a man's 
complaint be what it will, he muft either 
bleed, or take a glyfter: this indelicate 
pra&ice is fo much in vogue in this very 
delicate and polite country, that both 
men and women (though in perfeft health) 
take two or three a day ; and will talk of 
them with as much freedom, as we do of 
our diflies of tea. It is common to hear a 
gentleman or lady fay in company, that 
their dinner has not pafs'd •, they will e'en 
go and take a lavement, and in a few mi- 
lutes return and fay, it has performed 
admirably : the women fay, it refrefhes 
them, and helps their fkin to a fine colour; 
but I muft impartially fay, I never faw 
any of their women or quality, or faftrion, 
that had another than that which a pro- 
ftifion of paint and powder gave them ; 
and own my ideas were often fo indelicate, 
as to fancy I faw them charg'd in rear, 


in his Tour through France. 1 7 ? 
with this darling machine of theirs, of 
which I have been juft now fpeaking. This 
is a long digreflion, which I fhall make no 
apology for, as my principal defign is 
to prevent any of my countrymen travel- 
ing fo far in fearch of health, to be diia- 
greeably difappointed ; and fully perfuad- 
ed am I, that the air of Montpellier is 
deftrudhve to all inward or nervous com- 
plaints ; which is what, in this gloomy cli- 
mate, we moftly complain of ; though I 
well know the phyficians, on their arrival 
there, will tell them (for their own inter- 
eft) that they will fend them home new 
born ; which is their frequent expreflion. 
The town has nothing curious to induce 
a ftranger to ftay longer in it than three or 
four days, except he arrives there .about 
Chriftmas ; at which time, it is very gay, 
as all the nobility of Languedoc meet 
there at that time, to fettle the affairs of 
the province, though it is not the capital, 
but efteem'd nearly the center. There is, 
during that time, a play, which, with an 
indifferent concert, are all the public a- 
mufements. The people in trade are re- 
puted by the French themfelves, to be 
the greateft extortioners, and fure not to 
let a penny efcape them, be the means to 
come at it ever fo unjuft^ as an inftance, 

1 3 tb* 

.-. —*K»* 

1 74 Tfie Gentleman 9 s Guide 

they had the' confeience . to charge at* 
Engiifti fea officer that died there, 300 
livres (twelve guineas and a half) for only 
eight days lodging; this, to my know- 
ledge, is a faft. 

The houfes are, 'as the ftreet and peo- 
ple, extremely irregular arid dirty : the 
inhabitants are fuppofed to amount to 
40,000, who trade very largely in wine,, 
cordials, oil, verdigreafe, and falt-petre. 
They have feveral manufactures in filk, 
and woollen goods. The environs are 
extremely pleafant 5 having on one fide 
£a place de Peyreau, which forms a fine 
terras, in the center of which is a fuperb- 
ftatue of Lewis the XIV. on horfeback : 
from thence, on a clear day, may be feeiv 
to the eaftward, the Alps, which forrti the 
frontiers of Italy j to the foiith-weft, the< 
Pyreneai* mountains, Which form thofe of 
Spain, each efteem'd fifty leagues diftant ; 
and to the fouthward, a moft extenfive 
view of the Mediterranean : not far from 
thence is a noble aqueduft, built like 
two bridges one above the other ; and- 
the king's garden, where .(on certain, 
days) public leftures are held on botany. 
On the other fide of the town is the Efpla- 
nade, a beautiful Walk, borcfered on each 
fide by olive trees^ from whence there is a 


in his 'Tour through France. xys 
pieafing profpeft of the fea, and the coun- 
try adjacent to the town ; near which, is 
tRe citadel, a place of no ftrength, though 
Well waird Ini as it is commanded by fe- • 
veral . rifing grounds, and has only a dry 
ditch. There is commonly kept there 
four battalions of infantry. Should an 
Englifliman cKufe to refide here .any time, 
the Grande Rue, that is the great ftreet, is 
the genteeleft'quarter to refide in ; where 
twelve or eighteen livres a month, is the" 
price for a genteel chamber; which, in the 
time of the ftates* would let for fixty y 
and if he does not chufe to mefs with the 
officers, there is a genteel ordinary, where 
the Englifh commonly eat at, in the Rue 
d* Argehterie, which is contiguous to your 
lodgings. - "* "... 

'Before you leave this unhofpitable city, 
you ftiould hire a hbrfe arid "vifit Cette, a 
ibug fea-port town, four leagues to the 
fouthward, where jhe royal canal of Lan- 
guedoc forms its junition with the Medi- 
terranean. At your return you will find, 
as before, coaches fetting out every day 
from the'Cheval Blanc for Be2iers, fixteen 
leagues diftant ; eight livres will be enough 
to give for your paflage : you will arrive 
time enough in the evening to examine 
properly Pezenas, a finally neat town fitu- 
I 4 ated 

J 76 The Gentleman* s Guide 

ated in a plain on the river Peyne : this 
town the Englifh have chofe, of late years, 
to refide at, far preferable to Montpellier ; 
as the air is confiderably better, all forts 
of provifion in great abundance, and the 
people hofpitable; and indeed differ as 
much in their manners as if they were not 
born in the fame country. You will on 
the next evening arrive early at Beziers, 
fituated on a lofty eminence ; at the foot 
of which runs the river Orbe, over which 
is a handfome bridge. The cathedral is 
fmall, but finely decorated within \ and 
oppofite to it is the Belvedere, or Terras, 
-which commands a mod: enchanting and 
extenfive profpe&of the fine country ad- 
jacent to the town, and the valley through 
which this beautiful river runs ; rifing 
gradually on each fide, and forming an 
amphitheatre covered with olives, vine- 
yards and corn fields ; and on the other 
lide, the ten fluices of the canal, which 
form fo many beautiful cafcades, of near 
120 yards in depth. 

The bi(hop*s palacfe is magnificent, and 
commands a fine view ; oppofite to it is 
the town-hall, which forms one fide of a 
large fquare ; on the wall of which are fe- 
veral antique infcriptions. There is at 
the bottom of the Rue Franpoife, an enor- 

in hU Teur through France. 177 

mous ftatue of Pierre Peerne, which (to 
amufe the people) they paint, and crown 
with laurels every year. Hiftory fays, 
that when Beziers was taken by the Eng- 
lifb, this valiant captain hindrfed them 
ever taking poffeffion of the grandeft and 
mod opulent ftreet in the town. The 
en v:ron;> of this city are efteemed the mod: 
tit-vrruful in France. .The inhabitants 
arc <uppofed about 10,000, whofe riches 
principally confift in corn, wine and oil. 
There are a few manufadtures in woollen 
and frlk. The houfcs are tolerably built, 
but the ftreets narrow, irregular, and bad- 
ly paved. 

I now propofe to embark you on the 
royal canal tor Touloufe, where it empties 
ltfelf into the Garonne, and is twenty four 
leagues diftant. The expedition will both 
delight, and aftonifh you, as it is the moft 
admirable and ufeful invention of the 
kind in Europe, and pours, withitsftream, 
riches, plenty, and the produce of all fo- 
reign countries, into every province, town, 
'and village it comes near, by opening a 
free communication between the Weftern 
Ocean, and the Mediterranean Sea. Hif- 
tory fays, that the Romans had firft con- 
\ceiv*d the defign of this canal ; but that 
( the inequality of the earth, the mountains, 
Ij "• the 


1 7* The Gentteman's Gaitt 

the forefts, and the rivers that oppofed it& 
paflages, had appeared fuch unfurmount- 
dble obftacles, as to oblige them to lay a*-, 
fide their intention : but Paul Riquet, a 
Frenchman, who, (according to the fame 
hiftory) was more refolute and cnterpriz- 
ing than any of the Romans, undertook 
to complete this grand defign in 1666 ^ 
and, before his death, had the fatisfac- 
tion to fee it brought to the greateft per- 

This indefatigable projeftor removed: 
all thefc inconveniencies, either by fluices, 
which contain the water in the defcents ;. 
in piercing mountains, building bridges, 
or rather aquedu&s, under which thofe 
torrents and rivers pafs; there are fifteen, 
of thefe fluices, on the fide of the ocean ; 
and forty-five, on that of the Mediter- 
ranean ; and thirty-feven aquedti&s, thro* 
which thefe heavy barges pafs ; in general 
carrying between "fifty and fixtytoris : in 
different places, there are eight bridges, 
'forming one beautiful arch, for carriages 
to pafs cm either fide. 

The poft-boat (for fo it is called) which 

fets out at twelve o'clock every day, \% 

fmall; 'fitted up as complete fes a'fhip's 

"rabbin, and drawn by one horfe : it will 

'coft you only thirty' fob ~a day* ; ftops to 


in his Tour through France. 1 79. 

dine, fup, and lie -, and on the third day, 
early in the evening, will fet you fafe at 
Touloufe : yoy will pafs through feverat 
of the aquedu&s, as before mentioned ; 
•fome of riiem {landing on three or four 
arches ; under which run rapid torrents, 
and rivers that have not the kail commit 
.nication with the ' canal: in ■ other places- 
you will mount, and dejcend lofty emi^ 
uences, by thfc help of feveral fluices, fliut-- 
tin£ the door of one fucceGively, till you 
•have water to float in the next •, and ib on, 
f tiil you reach the top or bottom- This is 
v fbmewhat- tedious J but the pleafure of 
-feeing fo adrtiirable an invention, wilf 
make the time appear fliort; in a third 
place, and what J think rnoft curious of 
•all, is, your palling for the fpace of 48b' 
feet, under a -lofty mountain, which is as 
completely - arch'd with hewn Itone as 
- Weftmirifter bridge ; on the top of which 
are vineyards, corn fields,, olive trees, and- 
'ieveral hbufes. .' 

' The curious traveller : fhould By air 
means flop at Caftelnaudari ; at which 
place he will arrive the lecond day to din- 
ger, and take poll horfes to St. Ferro!,, 
•(which is dnly five leagues diftant,) and' 
<vrew the refefvoir which fupplies the canal 5 
•with- water: it is computed to- b&a league- 
' " 16* rouncf^ 


i So The Gentleman's Guide 

r ound * buik intirely of hewn (tone, and 
of a vaft depth ; underneath which there 
are feveral brafs cocks of an enormous 
fize ; which, when the canal wants water, 
are open'd by iron bars, to fupply it : there 
are three rivers conflantly emptying them- 
felves into this refervoir. 

This canal, during the months of July, 
Auguft, and September, is let to become 
dry, in order to its being clean'd out, as 
it is a (landing water •, confequently a 
great deal of mud is collected, and the 
people employ'd in the craft, are prefix'd 
to work on this occafion if they cnufe it, 
which is the rhoft eflential means of having 
that bufinefs effe&ually done j as it is 
much their intereft it fhould be fo. This 
ftop is not the lead hindrance to trade ; 
as at that feafon the people are employed 
en their harveft and making their wines. 

The barges are all mark'd with the ma- 
iler's name, numbered, and the prices of 
freight ftipulated according to the diftance 
they carry it : and through their whole 
conduft, the greateft care and regularity 
is pbferved. I was credibly informed, 
that when the canal is clean'd out, though 
it is term'd fixty leagues in length, that 
they can float all the craft in three days 5 
from whence we can form fome idea of the 



in his tour through France. 1 3 i 
excellence of the work ; the plentiful 
fupply of water; and with what joyful 
rapidity it rufhes forth to the public 

This canal is faid to coft thirteen mil- 
lion of livres ; half of which was fupplied 
by the province, and the reft liberally 
given, by that great encourager of arts 
and fciences, Louis XIV. and ftill, as a 
greater mark of his unbounded generality, 
granted to Riquet (the proprietor,) and 
his male heirs, all the jurifdi&ion and 
revenues belonging to it; fo that the 
crown does not come into poflefllon till 
the extinction of that line : all goods 
tranfported on it, pay for every hundred 
weight twenty fols ; and the king himfelf 
pays the fame for military ftores, &c. fo 
that the revenues, (efpecially in time of a 
brifk trade) are very confiderable. How- 
ever, the charges attending it are aifo very 
great; for it is calculated that the falaries 
of the feveral dire&ors, receivers, compt- 
rollers, clerks, and watchmen, annually 
amount to one hundred thoufand livres, 
befides the great expence of repairs ; and 
are obliged to keep thofe poft- boats con- 
ftantly going, and coming, though not a 
paffenger fhould be in them. In one of 
thefe you may. again reaflume your voyage 


i«4 Th$ Gentleman's Guide 

Ocean. This amazing indolence can be 
attributed to no other xaufe than the 
boundlefs ambition of the merchants, 
who all aipire to have a feat in the coun- 
cil ; whLh once obtained, they and their 
children are then ennobled, and confe- 
quently lay afidc trade and induftry. 

The minds of thefe people feem rather 
bent on ftudy and amufement ; and in- 
deed I know no town in France where an 
Englifhman may learn the polite arts and 
fciences atfo eafy a rate, or live cheaper, 
or more to his fatisfaftion on a fmall in- 
come ; for provifions, wine, and every 
jieceflary of life, are here in the greateft 
abundance -, though the French language 
(except by the better fort of people) is in- 
sufferably fpoken, which is the gjreateft, 
and only obje&ion I have to its being the 
refidence of my countrymen. 

There is commonly a play, and con- 
cert, which with catd playing in abun- 
dance are the only amufements. The 
convents, and. churches, are innumer- 
able; adorned with a profufion of pi&ures, 
images, and gildings. The cathedral is a 
handfocne ftru&ure, but contains nothing 
remarkable. The Carmelites, the Char- 
treux, and the Cordeliers churches, and 
convents, merit great notice, being mag- 

in his Tour through France. 185 

nMcently ornamented, and in great tafte : 
in a cave belonging to the latter, there 
are above a hundred bodies rang'd about 
in great order, (landing upright againft 
the wall ; many of them had been buried 
two or three hundred years, in the ifle of 
the churclj, and had (at different times) 
been taken up, to make room for others : 
they are in general as well preferved as 
any Egyptian mummy I ever faw : their 
teeth in, and fo perfedt in their features, ' 
that I verily believe, were their acquaint- 
ances living, they might eafily recoiled!: 

The monks value themfelves vaftly 
upon the virtues of their mother earth, 
on which this church is built ; arid they 
daily return thanks to the blefled Virgin 
for this her fignal favour : they are a very 
rich body, compofed of about 120 ; and 
live (like feveral other orders of monks 
in France) entirely by begging ; which 
they in general do with a moft undaunted, 
and indecent affurance •, bolting into one's 
chamber without knocking at the door, 
and treating a denial with the greateft in-? 

The univerfity of this city is reputed 
the fecond in France, and confifts of- 
feveral colleges for divinity, law, phyfic, 


i S$ i Tie Gentleman 9 s Guide 

philqfophy, and the liberal arts. There* 
is. alio an academy of polite literature, 
foiihded by royal patent, which is com- 
peted 01 a chancellor, and forty fellows, 
or membprs, who confer prizes on thofe 
wjio excel molt in poetry. The town- 
h^ll is a grand building, and forms one 
fide of a beautiful fquare, richly ornament- 
ed in front with marble pillar? of the. 
Corinthian order : the marble, is* the pro- 
duce oif Langyedoc, where there are in- 
numerable quarries: thishandfome'build- 
ing has balconies at every window, richly* 
gilt, and ornamented with the mayor's and 
alftertqen's arm*. If- is called the Capitol i 
from ^hf age the AJdern^en are. called Ca- 
pitQuls, : eight; of thefe a^ apnualiyele&r 
e$ : thpy hav$ dip, a^mjniftr^ti^ of crir 
m^naj juj^jce i but can refoiye ; oq' nothing; 
without <#iU{}& a council, bf } citizens,.' 
Wjhich is always; comp.ofe.d, of thofe who 
h§iye bpen Capitouls, ami is nearly equal 
to. °W gfap<£ jy r /* lA ^ merchant's 
h^U (which ift yp.ftairs) are many fine 
pajlntings ; a^Q/Jg which is a representa- 
tion of Loujs 2£iV* entent^g into that 
city, and his confirming the privileges of 
the Capjtoul^ •, underneath w,hich is this. 
flittterin& inlcriptioa : 


in hitYcur through France* iff 

Dccu opt, max. 

I>, D. D. % 

Oitoviri Capitolini,. 

P. Q^ Tolos. 

Qb reftitutam Ludovico Magnp. valetudinenij 

Et confervntum 
* Eccleftae defettforem, 

Nobilitati Principera, 
Magi-ftratibus Legiflatorem, 

Populo Patrein, 
Orbi perpetuum rairaculunu 

On one fide of, this, hall, is the granct 
regifter in vellum* on which they, write* 
annually* every remarkable . indent that 
* gaffes, in the, ftate*,or towA.of Touloufe : 
you there fee the entraace-of all the kings, 
and. queens : one of which is pretty re- 
markable, .as., it {hews thc'greaj duty and* 
refped . Inputs IX, 'hadlfpc his mother^ 
to whom, the. citizens, o£ Toulo.ufe had;- 
refufed a canopy;, he. obliged; her,, at the 
city gates* to get out of her. ftate coach* 
and mount on a pillion, behind him ; con- 
fequendy the canopy tliat, was over his. 
Head, covered the queen equally,, and in 
this manner did he- parade the town, and 
brought to. fubmiffion thofe haughty citi- 
zens, who ever after, with great cQmjpfiire^ 
gaiil her the refped due tQ m.ajefty. 


t$fr the Gentleman's Guide 

Over the Garonne there is a handfome 
bridge ; at the end of which is a trium- 
phal arch, with a ftatue to Louis XIV. 
upon it. There is an Irifli academy in 
this town, where there is always a Vaft 
number of catholic ftudents from that 
country, who are educated at an eafy 
rate. The ramparts (being broad and 
lhaded on each fide by elms) would afford 
delightful walks, were they not fo pro- 
fufely and abominably ornamented in the 
fir-reverence order : in (hort, this beaftly 
cuftom of doing the offices of nature, 
even in the open day, prevails fo abun- 
dantly among thefe people, that it is with 
pain a perfon of the leaft delicacy or de- 
cency can walk through their ftreets 5 
which filthy cuftom, in a great meafure, 
proceeds from the negleft of the magi- 
ftratcs, though there is a defence in writ- 
ing, ftuck up at the corner of every ftreet; 
but were they to fet men to watch, and 
make a fcvere example of fome few that 
were taken in the faft, it, no doubt, 
(like other nuifances) might be eafily con- 
quer'd : moft of the French houfes are 
without a neceflary, and where there are 
any, they are commonly on the tops of 
the houfes ; fo I ftppofe they count it 
lefs trouble to drop their daizy at the 


in his Tour through France. iftj 
door, than, like Christians, mount to the 
place deftineji for that purpofe, which is 
often fix or feven ftories high. 

At my firft going into France, I was 
furprized at having two chamber-pot* 
laid under my bed ; and on enquiring the 
reafon, I was informed there was one for 
each ufe : but upon my alluring them 
that the Englifh had an averfion to odours, 
they thought proper to withdraw one of 
th$m. I think I have dwelt rather too 
long upon this dirty fubjedt ; therefore 
Til wave it, and proceed to fomething 

more entertaining. 

Without the walls of this town there is 
a multiplicity of delightful walks ; fuch 
as the king's garden, the Efplanade, and 
by the fide of the river ; all which will 
be more pleafant twenty years hence, as 
the trees are but newly planted, and afford 
but little fhade, which is much wanted in 
a fouthern climate. There are on the 
neighbouring mountains, fcveral medici- 
nal fprings, which are as much frequent- 
ed as Bath and Briftol wells; and equal- 
ly efficacious for feveral diforders 5^ the 
weak and infirm have a moft comfortable 
and eafy method of being convey'd thi- 
ther; which, as it is much more convenient 
than a litter, I fhall endeavour to defcribe. 


1 90 Ufa Gentleman's Guide 

This machine, or vis-a»vis y as it is called* 
* efembley touch a round paper fnuff box 
laid upon its edge, a door on each .fide * 
within, two feats, one oppofue the other, 
•fuppofed for the infirm and a fervant ; it 
is very artfully hung between two poles, 
as are the fedan chairs v a ad, the motion 
equally eafy ; a mule, or horfe, harnefs'd 
beforehand another behind, condu&stthe 
patient with the utmoft eafc and plealure, 
' wherever they pleafe, without either 
being expofed to the impertinence of a 
curious mob, or the inclemency of the 
weather : if the inn-keepers on the Bath 
and Briftol roads who lett poft chaifes 
were each obliged to have a couple of 
thefe ufeful vehicles (the expence not 
being great) it would be 'the means of 
favingthe lives of many worthy fubjefts, 
whofe fortune will not admit of their 
having fuch of their own. 

You fhould, before you leave this 
country, hire a horfe and vifit Montau- 
ban, a neat pretty town on an eminence, 
in a fine fertile country, and diftant from 
Touloufe eight leagues ; which having 
feen, and return'd; you muft; embark on 
the- Qaronne fod Boardeaux,. which is 
diftant forty leagues % whither you will be 
condu&ed in great fafety for fix livres, in 


in his tour through France. 191 

two days and a half : this great riveral- 
ways runs to the north weft, and is fall 
as rapid as the Rhone : the' feebnd day 
you' will ftop to dine at Agfcn, a neat 
pretty town, in a moft agreeable Tituation, 
bordering on the north weft fide of the 
Garonne : the inhabitants are calculated 
to be about ten thotffand, and extremely 
induftrious -, they have feveral manufac- 
tures' in filk and wobllen goods, and pro- 
vifions of all kinds in the greateft abun- 
dance. When you arrive at Bourdeaux, 
die Hotel de Prince, Hotel d'Orleans, of 
Hotel* de Cdnde, are the beft inns ; Where 
you are always lure of meeting fome of 
your countrymen •, four livres ten folsr is 
the price per day. The town is large, 
populous, and extremely commercial. 
The harbour (or rathei* that fide of the 
river on which the town is built) forms a 
half moon, and receives "ftiips of the 
greateft burthen, as the tide flows full, 
and change twenty-one feet : " the mer- 
chants houfes (Which range along "the 
quay near two miles' and & half in lfcngth) 
are all' built of hewh' ftbne, exactly uni- 
form; and moft of them ornamented with 
fculpture and ; balcbnies : in 'the!' cefctre 
there is a large fquare », one* fide off which 
is form'd by a magnificent change,- with 


i$2 The Gentleman's Guide 

an equcftrian ftatue of the prefent king, 
placed on a lofty and beautiful pedeftal 
of white marble ; on one fide of which, is 
a confpicuous mark of their weaknefs and 
vanity, reprefenting General Blakeney, in 
a mod fubmiffive manner on one knee, 
rendering the keys of Mahon, andfeveral 
trophies of war to Marechal Richelieu ; 
the other fide is a blank. 1 told a French 
fea officer (who was polite enough to fhcw 
me that as well as every other curiofityj 
that it was very unfortunate that France 
had not been fuccefsful enough to have 
taken another town ; as it then might 
have appeared a finifhed piece, in having 
each fide equal •, but that I would have 
them fubftitutethe Greenwich and* War- 
wick as emblems alfo of their viftories by 
fea ; he told me, witlf a fhrug of the 
ihoulders, that this was lefrto be done 
the next war. 

The city contains a few Roman anti- 
quities ; but fo much defaced, as to be 
made nothing of, except the remains of 
an amphitheatre, built by the emperor 
Gallinus. The change, parliament houfe, 
cathedral, and Carthufian convent, merit 
attention ♦, this laft being the richeft* 

# The only capital Jhips taken during theJate 


in his Tour through France. 193 

$nd moft magnificently ornamented, of 
that order, in France. The harbour is 
defended, and commanded by the caftle 
Trompet on one end of the quay, and 
the caftle Haa on the other ; in both of 
which there are garrifons kept. 

Thefe fortifications appear to me to be 
conftrudted on fuch a plan, (having only 
one tier of guns, and nearly parallel with 
a firft rate's upper deckers) as jfhips of 
the line would pay no regard to-, for 
they could come within piftol-fbot of either 
of them, and in half an hour filence all 
that dare oppofe them : but the ftrength 
of Bourdeaux, I take it, chiefly confifts 
in the difficulty of its navigation, beings 
twenty leagues from the fea : the {hoals 
in this river are innumerable, and of fo 
dangerous a nature, that few merchant* 
Ihips that get on tfctjem (except on .a flood 
tide) ever get off-, the bottom being a* 
foft mud, and fandy, they make a bed 
for themfelves *, aftd in a tide's time are 
fwallowed up: but could proper pilots 
be procured, P apprehend it would be no 
difficult matter to raife. a million 'fterling 
of thefe wealthy inhabitants, before they 
could have any ajfiftancc , , 

Six leagues telotfld^itdfr/ii there is atf 

iAand oppofite to Blaye, between which 

K the 

194 ?7" Gentleman's Guide 

the {hips muft pafs ; this channel is de- 
fended by ibme guns on each fide, which 
appear to me, as they are well elevated, 
of much more confequence than thofe at 
the town. 

The trade of this city, as before ob- 
ferved, is extremely considerable ; and to 
encourage commerce, a toleration is 
granted to moft nations that frequent it, 
but prrticularly the Scotch ; who, on ac- 
count of the fervices they formerly render- 
ed to France, enjoy confiderable privi- 
leges •, and one of the gates of Bourdeaux, 
even at this day, bears the arms of Doug- 
las : and as fhips from that country have 
peculiar immunities allowed them in 
trade, they (hip moft of their wines from 

The proteftants, in fome meafure, en- 
joy their religion here with more freedom, 
than in the fouthern towns of France : 
their minifter always appears in a layman's 
habit; and performs divine ferviceinthe 
houfes of fome of the principal merchants. 

The environs of this city are extremely 
agreeable, but the town, quite the con- 
trary; as the houfes (except thofe on the 
quay) are old, and irregular : the ftreets 
are the fame ; ever dirty and badly pavM. 
The garden of the bifhop's palace is al- 


in his Tour through France- 1^5 

^ways open from two till nine; which* 
with the royal garden, are the moft 
agreeable walks about the city. St. 
Michael's church is remarkable for its 
lofty and well finifhed fteeple: from 
whence you have a beautiful profpect of 
the harbour, and fhipping, with a moft 
fertile country adjacent to the town, cover* 
ed with vineyards, corn, country feats, • 
and meadows ; through which run many 
pleafing rivulets. 

Your next town to vifit, is Pokftiers^ 
the capital of Poi&ieu, fituated on a hill, 
at the foot of which runs the river Clain : 
it is fifty-two leagues from- Bourdeaux, 
and feventy-five from Paris : you will, as 
faid before, find plenty of carriages ; in any 
of which you may be conducted for a 
louis d'or. If a man was to judge of a 
town for the extent of it, this ought 
to be the fecond city in France, but it is 
almoft defart, and never has recovered 
itfelf fince the civil-wars. The Romans 
erefted feveral monuments •, the remains 
of which (though in a very ruinous con- 
dition) do them great honour. 

Near this town, in 1356V the Englifh 

gained a very fignal vi&ory over the 

French : in which battle, king John, and 

Jhis fan Philip, were made priloners : our 

K 2- army 

196 The Gentleman's Guide 

army was then commanded in perfon by 
Edward the black prince. The cathedral, 
which is dedicated to St. Peter, is richly 
Ornamented, and contains innumerable 
antiquities. Here catholic fuperftition 
feems to have a full fcope : in the church 
ofi St Hilaire, they (hew on one fide of 
the organ, a large cradle fix feet long, 
ajjd two and a half broad -, in which they 
fay, if a fool, or a madman is tied down, 
after the priefts have offered up a few 
prayers to the blefled Virgin, out he 
comes perfe&ly reftored to his proper 
fenfes : if there was any truth in the vir- 
tue of this cradle ; and all who were 
fpolifh, or craz'd, would apply ; the one 
would never be empty; nor the other 
b#vc time for reft or refrefhment. 

The abbey of St. Croix, is a monument 
of the piety of St. Radegonde, queen of 
France; it forms a' crofs, and was built 
(as they fay) in the time of Charles Magne: 
it is fumptuoufiy ornamented with fine 
paintings, which were prefented by Philip 
William of Naflau, prince of Orange, 
to Charlotte Flanderine of Naffau, his 
fifter *, who was at that time the abbefs of 
thia monaftery* In thi$ convent is a place 
qdkd the footftep x>f God; where it is 
confidently reported that our Saviour, as 

a hand- 

in his Tour through France. 197 
fbme young man, crowned whh glory, 
appeared to one of the nuns ; who was 
much troubled at this apparition, till he 
acquainted her who he was ; and that he 
came to comfort, and afliire her, that fhe 
was the choiceft jewel in his crown : then 
he departed, and left the mark of one of 
his feet in the cell ; and therefore they call 
it, le pas de Dieu : but I fancy (if the 
truth of the matter was known) it was her . 
lover, who miaht have been unfo^j^j.^ 
furpris'd by the good mother abbefs •, and 
that the above relation is only the produc- 
tion of her happy genius. 

In 1206 the Englifli being before 
Poi&iers, they found means to bribe the 
mayor's clerk to procure tHe keys, and 
txpeh to them the gates of the towA 1 to 
accomplifh which, he awak'd his matter 
in the night, and afk'd him for the keys 
to let an officer pafs to king Philip ; the 
mayor fearch'd for them to no purpofe 
under his pillow; and, alarm'd that he 
could not find them, haflily got up, and 
put the citizens under arfns 5 and Went to 
the cathedral, to thank God that he had, 
time to prevent the treafon ; and earneftly 
praying to the blefled Virgin, that fhe 
would aflift him : fhe, good image like, 
extended one of her arms, and prefented 
K 3 the 

• i$i 2*fo Gentleman's Guide 

the keys to him ; in confcquence of this 
miracle, the chapter enjoy many privi- 
leges, greatly to their own emolument. 

About iooo yards from the gate du 
Pont Jubert, is a ftone in the form of an 
oval, which is call'd La piene levee: 
that is the rifen ftone ; it* is twenty feet 
in circumference, eighteen inches thick - 9 
and is placed on five (lone pillars three feet 
high: they tell ftrangers, (with great 
^arneftnefs) that S. Jtadegonde carried this 
ftone on her head to this place, and the 
five pillars in her apron j and that the 
devil pick'd up the fixth, and ran away 
with it ; but antiquarians give a more rea* 
fonable account, and fay, that it is a fe- 
pulchre of the antient poets. 

la the centre of the royal fquare is an 
equeftrian ftatue of Louis, XIV. The 
pedeftal (which is of white marble) is en- 
grav'd all round with various inferiptions 
to the glory of that monarch. This city 
is governed by a mayor, (which office 
ennobles him) and twenty aldermen* 
They have little commerce, as the inhabi- 
tants are naturally indolent, love fociety, 
and are extremely p : lite and hofpi table 
to (badgers, though they ftay very little 
time among thenv as there are feldom 

• any 

in his four through France, ,199 
any public amufements ; the houfes are 
antient, the ftreets narrow and ill pav'd : 
the bell inn is the Grand Monarque ; and 
three livres a day the price. 

Your next trip is to Tours, the capital 
of the province of Touraine, and a parlia- 
ment town, fuuated in a fertile and exten- 
five plain, between the rivers Loire and 
the Cher, which join about two miles be-'* 

*~.. w*x^ w „ •.aaci j^aiuug oy in antes, 

empty themfelves into the Weftern Ocean. 
The houfes are well built with a very 
white ftone, and make a grand appear- 
ance ; the ftreets are broad, well paved, 
and always clean, occafioned by the water 
from fix beautiful fountains, which keep 
continually running through them from 
different quarters. 

This city has alfo fuffered confiderably 
by the civil-wars ; the inhabitants at that 
time were fuppofed to amount to 60,000;. 
whereas, at prefent, they do not count 
half that number. The manufactures are 
.moftly in the filk and woollen goods, 
though they trade very confiderably in 
wine, wool, and corn. The mall is 
efteemed the fineft walk in the kingdom, 
being a thoufand yards long, ornamented 
on each fide with two rows of lofty elms, 
K 4 and 

2oo The Gentleman* s Guide 

and commanding a moft delightful pro- 
fpeft : the inhabitants are fo jealous of" 
this ornament, that it is prohibited (under 
pain of paying ten livres) to walk there af- 
ter rain, till it isperfe<5tly dry. 

The cathedral has a moft beautiful 
gate, ornamented in the front with twa 
lofty towers : its library contains many 
manuscripts, of twelve hundred and a 
♦u~.ifonH vf>ir<* old-. St. Martin's church 

is one of the fineft In the kingdom, and 
may be fecn twelve leagues round. The 
convent of the Capucins is fituated on an 
eminence ; and their terrafs commands a 
fine profpect of the town, and country 
that environs it. The royal quay is the 
rnoft fpacious place in the city, and much 
frequented by the citizens to walk on* 
Le Pleflis les Tours, is a royal houfe,, 
built by Louis IX. who found it fo agree- 
able a fituation, that he lived and died 
there : this caftle is built of brick, and 
has magnificent apartments for the time 
in was conftru&ed j a Jfcaciaus 
park, and beautiful gardens, laid out in 
a high tafte. The parliament houfe, the 
academy of polite literature, fome con- 
vents, and the churches above -men tioned, ; 
merit notice : this city « governed by a 
mayor and twelve aldermen. 


in his Tour through Fr&ncz. ton 
< Your next trip is t6 Blois, fwdvtf 
leagues diftant ; which, if you pleafe, you 
may perform by water, and arrive there 
early in the evening. This town is moft 
pfeafaRtly fituated, partly on an eminence, 
and partly on a plain, bordering on each 
fide the Loire-, Over which there is a 
handibme bridge. This city wa9 for* 
merly the refideftee of the royal family ? 
at which time, and for many years after, 
k was reputed that the French language 
was 1'poke here in its greateft purity : but 
at pvefent, people in general agree, that 
it does not merit that chara&er. This 
town is rather large than beautiful, as the 
houies tod ftreets are extremely irregular 5 
ks chief Ornanafent is th6 royal palace, 
which has gardens* fountains, water- 
works, and a park fuitable to the magni- 
ficenc of the building: over every gate 
in this city, is an image of the bleffed 
Virgin; they were eredted ia 1631, at 
which time they had fuflered confiderably 
by a plague •, from which, they fuppofed* 
they were happily delivered by this queen 
of heaven, as (k$ is ftiled by them. 
There $re fevefal magnificent fountains 
in different quarters of the town, which, 
are fupplied by an aqueduft, fuppofed te 
* 5 PS 

aoa *the Gentleman's Guide 

be built in the time of the Romans. The 
cathedral, Jefuits college, town-hall, a* 
alfo feveral churched and convents, merit 
notice. The inhabitants are fuppofed ta 
be about 15,000, and trade chiefly in 
wine and brandy. The curious ought by 
all means to vifit Chambord, a royal 
palace, fituated in a bottom near the river 
Caflbn •, and in the middle of a park 
ieven leagues round, inclofed with a wall* 
where are kept a vaft quantity of deer : it 
was eretted by Francis I. who, it is laid, 
employed, during two years, 1800 men at 
work. Connoiflenrs aflure us, that a- 
mong all the Gothic buildings France 
contains, they can produce nothing to 
equal this caftle ; though it is not, nor 
ever will be finifhed : four grand pavilli- 
ons form the body of this building, which 
has in the middle, a moft fpacious and 
beautiful ftair-cafe, conftru&ed on 1 fo in- 
genious a plan, that people may come 
up, and go down at the fame time, with- 
out feeing each other: this (though to 
appearance improbable) is really true. 

This Gaftle ieems, as if k had been de- 
figned for making a defence, as it has a 
canal, and ftrong wall entirely round i*; 
with a lofty tower at each corner. The 
' '• chambers, 

in his four through France. 203 
chambers, antichambers, garderobes, ca- 
binets, and galleries, are of an admirable 
archite&ure, and the gardens extremely 
beautiful ; that belonging to the queen 
contains five acres, and has alfo a walk 
two miles long, bordered on each fide by 
two rows of fine elms, only fix feet afun- 
der, which afford a moft pleafing (hade. 
From hence your next, journey will be to 
Orleans, which, if you pleafe, you may 
perform by water. 

This town is feated, as Blois, on the 
banks of the Loire, in one of the fineft 
countries in France -, being extremely 
fertile in corn, wine, cattle, and excellent 
fruits ; and all the rivers adjacent a- 
bounding with filh, and the fields with 
game. This city (lands in a moft agree- 
able plain, and forms a crefcent: the 
lioufes make no figure, as they are meanly 
built, and irregular 5 the ftreets in gene- 
ral narrow, and badly paved. The public 
walk is of a great length, and formed 
where the old ramparts ftood, well fhaded 
with lofty trees. 

Orleans, on account of its fituation, 
and being fo contiguous to Paris, is 
adeemed the grand magazine of the whole 
trade of the kingdom \ efpecially in corn, 
:' ' K 6 tfinei 

204 The Gentleman's Guide 

wine, brandy, fpices, and grocery : there 
are feveral manufa&ories eflablilhed here 
in the filk and woollen way-, and great 
quantities of tanned hides are exported 
from hence. Over the Loire there is a 
handibme bridge, which Hands on thirty 
arches ; on which is to be feen a beautiful 
monument, placed on a ftone pedeftal, 
with feveral ornaments in the Gothic tafte j 
in the center of this monument is a cru- 
cifix, before which, the Virgin Mary is 
fitting in a mournful pofture, with a dead 
Chrilt on her lap ; on her right hand 
is the ftatue of king Charles Vll. kneel- 
ing, and offering his erown and fceptre ta 
the Virgin ; and on her left, the maid of 
Orleans in the fame attitude :. a folemft 
procefiion is annually obferved on the 
12th of May, in commemoration of the. 
deliverance of this city, which was be- 
fieged by the joint forces of the Englifti 
*l)d Burgundians in 1428, and wanted ta 
capitulate to the duke of Burgundy, who 
was then in^the Englilh army, and their 
ally* but the Englilh not being willing 
that the city ihould be given up to him, 
he was much dilgufted at it -, and Joan of 
Arc taking the advantage of this disagree- 
ment, {allied out at the head of th^fol- 
dkrs* and raifed the .fiege -, from which 



in his four through France. 20£ 
aftion fhe obtained, the name of tte 
Maid of Orleadis, and has alrnoft as much* 
homage paid to her effigy, as there is to 
that of the Virgin Mary. 
. In 1 344 this, city was raifed ta a duke- 
dom ; and was afterwards by Louis XIV,. 
given to his brother the duke of Orleans,, 
in whofe hcufe it ftill continues. The 
foreft of Orleans lies to the northward of 
the town, and is reputed to be the largeft 
in the kingdom, as it covers fifteen thou- 
fand acres of ground, and is interfperfed 
with feveral fine plains and villages. The 
rev nue arifing annually from the timber 
cut in this foreft, is fuppofed to amount 
to the fum of ioo ? ooo livres, and is the 
property of the Duke of Orleans. 

It may not be improper here to men« 
tion one, among the innumerable arbi- 
trary laws that prevail in this despotic 
kingdom : the king appoints perfons, 
who are proper judges of (hip-timber, to 
range all the woods and forefts of his 
dominions, immaterial to whom they be- 
long: thefe people, when they find any 
trees proper for the king's ufe, mark them 
with a flower-de-luce, which when done, 
(though it may ftand fome years after- 
ward) the proprietor dares not, under pain 


zo€ The Gentleman's Guide 

of death, lay an ax to the root of it 
The timber thus marked, is cut down 
when wanted y and the king pays what 
he pleafes,. and when he pleaies, for 
them ; which is feldom more than half 
the market price^ 



in his Tour through Frarrct. $of 

From Calais to Paris — 

Paris to Auxerre 

Auxerre to Dijen 

Dijon to Chalons — — 
Chalons,to Lyons - — 
Lyons to Avignon «— • 

Avignon to Aix 

Aix to Toulon 

Toulon to Marseilles — 

Marfeilles to Aix 

Aix to Arte* — — 

Aries to Nifmes 

Nifmes to Montpellier - 
Montpellier to Beziera- 
Beziers toTouloufe — ■ 
Touloufe to Bourdeaux 
Bourdeauxto Poi&iers 
Poi&iers to Tours — 

Tours to Blois 

Bteis to Orleans — — 
Orleans to Paris — — 

Paris to Rouen 

Rouen to Dieppe 

oy J^ana. 

ay water.. 

' Leagues: 


; 33 


, "4" 



; 16 

. 15 

' 10 

'■ 5 


- -5, 



- i& 



' 24 ' 



' ' ■ 


: ** 









•oft The Gentleman's Guide 


General Obfervations on the Climate^ Man~ 
ners, Government,, and Revenues of 

France. ( . 

P R ANCE is bounded by the Brkkh 
channel, and tihe Netherlands*- north ; 
by Germany, Switzerland, Savoy and 
Italy, eaft; by Spain* and the Mediter r 
ranean, fouth -, by the Atlantic or Weft- 
ern ocean, weft ; extending from the 
42 d to the 51ft degree of north latitude 5 
and taking up above 1 1 degrees of lon- 
gitude : the moi : eafterly part of Pit* 
vence tying feven degrees eaftward of 
London $ and thfc raoft wefterly part of 
Bretagne, four degrees odd minutes weft- 
ward. Were it not for the province of 
Bretagne, which ftretches above an hun- 
dred mites farther into the oce&a than any 
pther part of the kingdom, ^ie fcrtfi 
would be almoft fquare^and the breadth 
anct length pretty near equal j that is, 
about iive hundred and forty miles : but 
making allowances for hills andvallies* 
It is. fix hundred miles over, either way. 

... :f '\ Xte 

in his Tour through prince. #pp 

The air is temperate, pretty equally 
exempted from the extremities of heat 
and cold ; which happy fituation occaflons 
a great plenty of all things definable ii*, 
life; as corn, wine, oil, flax, oranges, 
lemons, and all other forts of other choice 
fruits : but the northern provinces are 
conftderably colder in winter than in Eng* 
Jand; fo that the poor undergo much, 
greater ^^J^s in a fevere fe^forv ^ 

In other re^>e£ls, FranGe has tue ao* 
vantage of any kingdom in Europe for 
trade, as there is icarce : a province in it* 
that is not well -watered with navigable 
rivers;, moft of which have a communi- 
cation with the fea* The Alps divide i$ 
from Italy * . and the Ityre^ieesirom Spain* 

The French* as to their perfpns, are, u% 
general, of a lower ftature than their 
neighbours, and of a much (lighter make ; 
but nimble, adtive>and well proportioned : 
their hair, and eyes, for the moft part* 
black ; and cheir complexions brown : they 
are.merry, fprightly, and acquainted at firft 
fight s but eKceflive vain' and talkative : 
their vanity is carried tb an unreafonable 
length in thtir pittures,. infcriptions on 
their palaces, ftatues, &c. there being tfhis. 
mpdeft one under that of Louis XIV. 
* Vito imnjwtatt;" it aifo ffiake&t tixem. 


2 16 the Gentleman 1 f s Guide 

more extravagant in their drefs, than In 
their eating and drinking: for though a 
Frenchman eats nothing but fbup meagre 
every day in the week, you will rarely 
fee him without his lac'd coat, filk ftock- 
fngs, powdered hair, and lac'd ruffles* 
which are often tack'd upon either falfe 
flecves or a fhirt as coarfe as a hop-fack. 

The French certainly do not eat fo 
g-eat a quantity of .Md meat as the 
EngKfh -, nor do they often drefs it in the 
fame manner; foup, fricafees, hafhes, 
and ragouts, are preferred before whole 
joints, boiled or roafted 5 they chufe to* 
keep their meat fo long before it is dreflcd, 
that it is fo very tender, tod ftinks la 
frequently, that an unfrenchified Englifli- 
man is fure to be often difappointed at 
his meals: they have great variety of 
wines, which is their common drink ; 
and no doubt contributes as much to their 
vivacity, as the freedom. they allow their 
women; for you may really court a 
Frenchman's wife before his face without 
his being the leaft jealous-: the women 
indeed are fo us'd to freedom, that they 
are not at all furpriz'd: tho* you fhould 
find them doing the offices of nature. 

The nobility Or gentry of France, never 
apply themfelves; to trade, or merchan- 
dize * 

in his Tour through France. 2 r r 
dizc ; the church, and army, being better 
fuitcd to their genius. Their military 
fkill, it muft be acknowledged, is very 
great: their being no people who attack, 
or defend, a place better than they do. 

The legiflative, as well as the execu- 
tive, power in France, is vefted wholly in 
the king ; his edifts have the force of 
afits of parliament with us ; and he ap- 
points the judges, and other officers, 
that are to put them into execution. 

The king has his intendants in every go- 
vernment in the kingdom, who are vefted 
with an almoft unlimited authority : the 
courts of parliament are fifteen in number: 
viz. that of Paris, Touloufe, Rouen, 
Grenoble* Bourdeaux, Dijon, Aix, Ren- 
nes, Pau, Befanpon, Metz, Dowa, Per- 
pignan, Arras, and Alface : thefe confift 
of a certain number of prefidents, and 
inferior judges, who purchafe their 
places, N either of the crown, or of thofe 
pofleffed of them, they being for life; 
unlefs they are found guilty of fome - 
notorious crime in the execution of their 

The parliament of Paris is much the 
moft confiderable in the kingdom ; for 
hither, the king frequently comes in 
perfonj and here, his royal edi&s are 



2 1 2 The Gentkmaits Guide 

recorded and promulg'd ; till when, they 
have not the force of laws ; but they mult 
not difpute about the merits of them* 
This parliament is compos'd of the princes 
of the blood, dukes, and peers of France, 
befides the ordinary judges; and takes 
cognizance of all offences committed by 
peers, where the court does not interpofe. 
The princes of the blood have their k& 
and voice there at the age of fifteen, and 
the "CCrS twenty-five; with thisdifference, 
that the princes of the blood enter a& of 
right, but the peers cannot fit there till 
they have taken an oath of fidelity, and 
fworn to do juftice to poor and rich* 
to obferve the rules of the court, and to 
keep their deliberations fecret. 

This parliament confifts of ten chief 
prefidents, fome hearing eounfellors, or 
judges-, four mafters of requefts.of the 
hpufhold; twenty prefidents, a mortier 
(fo call'd from the fafhion of the cap he 
wears) and 232 folicitors-general, regis- 
ters* notaries, Secretaries, &c. Thefe 
members are diftributed oh, £rflr, the 
grand chamber ; Secondly, five chambers 
of inquefts ; thirdly, two of requefts : 
befides thefe, there is another call'd the^ 
Tournelle, which takes cognizance of 
criminal matters, where the nobility are 


f in his Tour through France. 21 $ 
not concern'd •, for thefe are tried in the 
grand chamber. 

In the chamber of inquefts, depofitions 
of witnefles are taken, and the proceed- : 
ings are by way of bill and anfwer, as in 
the court of chancery in England. The 
chambers of requefts take cognizance of 
- caufes relating to privileged perfons : the 
reft of the parliaments, have much the 
fame diftribution -, only they are excluded 
from taking cognizance of any caufes 
which relate to the crown, or the peers of 
the realm: the king's edi&s are alfo 
regifter'd in their parliaments, before they 
have the force of laws in the feveral dif- 

The civil law generally prevails in 
France-, befides which, every province 
has its peculiar cuftoms •, but the king's 
edidts, ordinances, declarations and arrets, 
(for by all thofe names are their afts of' 
ftate calPd) repeal, or alter, any of them. 
Befides the courts, and officers of juftice 
abovementioned, the kingdom is divided 
into twenty-five generalities \ every one 
whereof has an intendant, on whom the* 
kingfeems to rely for the dueadminiftra- : 
tion of -jufttce^ both civil and criminal, 
and the ordering, his finances and reve- 
nues y 

**4 ^ e Gentleman 9 j Guide 

nucs ; and to whom all other officers are, 

in a manner, fubordinate. 

The police through France is confti r 
tuted on a mod judicious political plan, 
and executed with the utmoft feverity : a 
fervant is hang'd for the leaft breach of 
truft, though the value of the theft did 
not amount to a {hilling : in all cafes of 
poifon (though the attempt did not fuc- 
ceed) the parties concern'd are broke 
upon the wheel ; and murderers and rob- 
bers on the highway (hare the fame fate : 
fmugglers, if dete&ed in the fa£t, are con- 
demned to perpetual flavery in the gallies ; 
and all women who are brought to bed 
of a dead baftard child (having not at 
firft declared their pregnancy,) are burn'd 
alive : the feverity of this law faves the 
lives of fome thoufands annually of thofe 
unfortunate infants : priefts who reveal 
what penitents confefs to them, have their 
tongues tore out, their gowns ftript off, 
and are expelPd their employments ; and 
any perfon who hatli robb'd a church, 
has his hands cut off at the church door ; 
and at the place of execution (which is 
always in the centre of the town) is made 
faft to a ftake, and burn'd alive. People 
of family who are. capitally convicted 
-(though not executed) are difennobled; 


in his Tour through France. 215 

all their relations (were they a thoufand in 
number) fhare the fame fate; diverted 
of all their public employments, render- 
ed incapable of ever holding any, and 
ail marriage contrafts become void. 

The only good attending this arbitrary 
and inhuman law, is, that it checks their 
Jiobility, and gentry, from committing 
many illegal outrages, they otherwife 
ifnght be guilty of, were not their hands 
tied up by the feverity of this law ; many 
of them reprefenting petty monarchs, in 
the villages of which they are feigneurs. 

The taxes ufually levied in France, are 
the taille, or land-tax; the taillon; the 
fubfiftance money; the aids; and the 
gabels. As to the manner of levying the 
land-tax, after the king has determined 
what fum he will raife, an order is iflued 
to every generality, what part of it fhall 
be there raifed; then the intendant,- 
in the moft equitable manner, (like our 
commiflioners) appoints every parilh its 
fliare. The nobility and clergy are ex-' 
empt from this tax, as are alio the bur- 
gefles of Paris, and fome other free cities. 
The taillon was eftabliftied in 1549, for 
augmenting the foldiers pay, and is pay- 
able by the fame perfons as the taille, of 
which it is about one third. The fubfift- 

2 1 6 The Gentleman* s Guide 

ancc was firft levied by Louis XIV. to 
maintain his armies in their winter quar- 
ters : and is paid in the fame planner as 
the land-tax. The aids are all duties and 
cultoms on goods and merchandize, ex- 
cept fait. The gabels are the taxes arifing 
from the fait ; the f&rmers of the gabels 
are obliged to buy their fait at the fait- 
pits, at a certain price, and carry it to the 
ftore houfes eftablifhed by the king* where 
it is delivered out to the people. There 
is one of thefe houfes in every great town, 
and the diredtors, and other officers be- 
longing to it, are judges of all offences 
relating to fait ; and examine, if every 
family takes annually fuch a quantity as ' 
is prefcribed them by the government* 
There are befides thefe, the poll-taxes* 
and a tax which has been levied of late 
years, from which neither the nobility, 
nor clergy are exempted - 9 it is calTd the 
50th penny, or 50tjv part of the produce 
of the earth. ,The. tenths, and- free gifts 
of the clergy, amount alfo to a yery con- 
fiderable fum, for they are believ'd to be 
pofiefs'd of a third part of the lands of 
the kingdom. A large revenue alfo arifes 
from crown-lands, woods, fee-farm rents* 
forfeitures, fines, &c. which ajfe computed 


in his Tour through France* * i 7 

ed to amount to fifteen millions ffcerling- 
a year. 

The eftablifhed religion in France is 
well known to be the Roman catholic : 
all fpiritual caufes are cognizable in theip 
ceelefiaftical courts, for any cafe what- 
foever; provided they are not Wended 
with temporal matters, for, all temporal 
matters are fubjeft to lay-jurifii£tion. 
The privileges of the clergy ^re, firft, 
they cannot be brought before any lay- 
junftii'dtion for perianal jnatters ; fo on 
the contrary they cannot bring lay*men 
before their ecclcfiaftical courts for any 
caufe whatfoever * and, ih real and mix'd 
actions, the clergy themfelves rnuft try 
their caufes in civil courts : fecondly, 
, they are exempt from the land-tax : third- 
ly, neither their moveables which are em- 
ployed in divine fervice, nor their books 
canbefciztd: fourthly, itt criminal cafes 
they may, if they defire it, be tried be- 
fore the grand chamber: fifthly, aprieft* 
if he is to be executed for any crime, 
muft firft be degraded : fixthly, they are 
exempt from quartering foldiers on them : 
and, laftly, tReir perfofts cannot be taken 
in execution, in civil aftions. 

The king nominates to all bifhopricks* 

and livings, &c. and then {he pope fends 

L hk 

z 1 8 in his Tour through France, 
his bulls of confecration. The crown 
feizes all temporalities of archbifhopricks* 
and bifhopricks ; which is here call'd, the 
regal; and the king frequently grants 
penfions to lay-men out of bifhopricks. 

I (hall conclude by moft earneftly re- 
commending it to all proteftant parents, 
to be extremely cautious to whofe care 
they intruft tlieir children, when fent early 
into France for their education j as I can 
with xonfidence affure them, that the 
catholics (ever ftrenuous to make con- 
verts) ufe all their fpecious and oftenu- 
f tious arguments, to imprefs their idola- 
' trous and irrational religion into their 
tender minds. . 




O F T H E 
AND t) 



. Rue du Chevet St. Landry. 

E Fevre, Traiteur, al'HotdSt. EfpriV 
at 24 fols. 

Rue de la Galdndre* 

• Martin, Traiteur, a la Madelain, at 20, 
30, and-40 fob. . . 

Rue de la Huchctte. 

Mcunier, Traiteur, au Boeuf, at 28 fols, 
and at the ordinary. 

L 2 Quartxeiv 

eio The Gentleman's Guide 


Rue du Chantre. 

Dupuis, Hotel d'Armagiiac, at 34 ibis : 
Peyrot, Hotel du St. Eijprit, at 30 fob. 

Rue Jean St. Denis. 
Paillawl, 1 1'Hotel dtf Louis XV. at 
a 6 fols, an ordinary: Le Fevre, Hotel 
d'Enguien, at 30 and 34 ibis. 

Rue des Pculies. 
. Bay fquefne, a la Bonne Foy, fends din* 
ners abroad. 

Rue St Germain VAuxerrois. 
Grafiet, i. FHotei de Grammont, at 

% 5 and 30: Frederic, au Lion d* Argent, 
at 22 and 30 fob. 

Rue de VArbre See*- 
Roulard,a PHotelde Rhodes, at 22 fols/ 
and above. 

Qtt artier Palais Royal* 

Rue Traverser e. 
La,I-Quette» Traiteur, from 15 to 30 : 
Guignard, Traiteur, at 32 : Willig, Trai- 

— — r-* r4 *» ^ ~ j^ 

in his Tour through Fr-ance. z£ i 
teur, at 36, an ordinary : Poly, Traiteur, 
from 30 to 40 Ibis. 

Rue St. Anne. 

Chenais, Traiteur, #PHotel St. Anne, at 
20 ibis. 

&M£ Bet QrJies. 

Gucrricr, Traiteur, a I'HoteLSt. Michel' 
at 24 and 30 ibis. 

Rue St. Honor epr^ St. R00L . 

Ferre, Traiteur, a KHotel St. Paul, from 
15 to 40 fob. 

Rue 'St. Raeh. 

Languelieral'Hotel St. Martin, at 22: 
Tifleran a THotel du Grand Turc, atjo : 
Le Prctre,a 1'HoteldePfcardie, at 30 fols, 


Rue Montmartrt* 

Chatelin, a 1'Ecu d'Orleans., at 30 fols- 
Morin at 24 and 30 fols, 3 livres and 6 

Rue ties Wieux Augujiins. 

I/Hotel Touloufc, at 3-2 :ibls. 

L 3 Rue 

;%vz , tfte Gentleman's Guide _ 

Rue du MaiL 
G rap in, at 22 fols. 

Rue Gaillon. 
Meunier, from 20 to 30 fols. 


f! Rue de la Croix des Petits Champs'. 

Hotel Dauphin, at 32 foU: Hotel de 
Bourgogne, at ditto. 

*"' Rue du Bouloy. 

Hotel Notre Dame, at 32 fols: Gion 
Hotel du Bouloir, at ditto-. 

. . Rue ^Orleans. 

: Mondamer, Hotel de la Providence, at 
36 fols. 

Rue de Grenelk. 
* Hotel de Grenelle, at 32 fols. 

Rue des Deux Ecus. 
.' "Aubry, Hotel St. Antoinc, from 3 to 
24 livres. 

Rue des Bons Enfans. 

Hotel d'Orleans, at 30 fols, 


in his Tour through Fraftce. 22 5 

Quartier St. Denis. 
Rue Saint Sauveur. 
Nival, Traiteur,from 25fols to 3 livres* 

Rue St. Denis. 

Gauge a la Croix de Fer, at 32 fols : 
Gille a la Sellette, at 25 for dinner, 30 
for fupper : . Vuitafie au Cheval Rouge* 
at 30 for dinner, $$ fols for fupper. 

Rue Franfoife. 

Hotel de PIcardie, from 18 to 36; 
Hotel de Paline, at 40 fols. 

Quartier St. Martin. 

Rue St. Martin. 
Hotel de Chalons, at 32 fols, 

• Rue des Menetrieres. 
Fleuri Hotel St. Martin, at 32 fols, 

Quartier la Greve. 

Rue du Maltois. 

Gervaife THotel St. Efprit, at 25 and 
30 fols. 


224 fht Gtntlmttts Gtridt 

Qr artier St. Paul. 

Rut Gtoffroy Lafnier. 

Penan, Trakeur, alaClef'D'Atgeatjat 
26 fob, an ordinary. 

Quartie* St. Avoyfi. 
Rue it la Vtrrtrit. 
Brebion, Hotel Notre Dame, at 30 ioU 
Rut Cimetitrt SL Jtan. 

Le Sault Hotel de L'Echelie, at %$ 

and 30 fob. 

Qtf artier. Marais* 
Rue St. Louis. 

Bathieux, from .15 to 25 fob. 

Quartier St. Antoink. 

Rut St. Anioiut. 

Dericourt, Tfaiteur^la CouroniTed r Or> 
at 26 fob, and takes boarders at' 60a 
livres, and a 1000 with a fervafct. '^ 


in Ids SCeur Ihtough 'France* g?,$. 

Rue Du Fautibourg &L Antrim* 

Maraut a k Croix cfe Lorraine, at 1 & 
and 20 : Maraut au Chariot d'Gte, at 1J6 
and 20 fofe* 

Quartibr La -Place -Ma<jmkt. 

Jto* P&ftf Maubert* 

JLe Clerce a. laLimase, at 15 and afc 


Rue Gallande* 

Bienafles, Traiteur y at .20 and 25 folk 

jRaz <fo Mont St. Wlcnvt. 

Fromem^femous-fcr calves heads- 

QpARTiEit St, Ahdre des Aicrs.. 

Jl** Dauphin* ~ 

Hotel d'Elpagne, from 2 to* 6 livres : 
ifhiewy, Hotel de Flandres, (they take 
boarders) fcom 20 to 30 livres- 

L5 Rue 

i,z6 fhe Gentleman's Guide . * 

Rue Des Grands Auguftins* 

Hotel de Thouloufe,. no fixed price ;- 
.they take boarders ; Hotel du Panier 
Fleuri, at 35 fols: Sarabeuf, Traiteur, at 
x livre, famous for turkeys and fowls, a la 
Gatinois: Tournois, Traiteur, from 20 to 

Suite de la Rue des Grands Auguftins. 
Le Groux, Traiteur, from 30 fols to 
6 livres. 

Rue Gillecoeur. 
Hotel de Bourgogne, about 25 folsi 
Hotel de Montauban, at 30 fols. 

Rue St. Andre des Arts. 
Hotel de Bretagne, at 35 fok. 

• Rue Cloitre St. Benoit. 
Helie, at all prices* 

Rue Des Mapns. 
Hotel des-Treforiers y .at all prices. 

" • < Rue du Jardinet. * 

Hotel Notre Dame, 35 fols at the ordi- 
nary, in private, 2 livres. . 


in his Tour through France. , 227 
Rue du Batoir. 

Mr. Chenal, furgeon, takes boarders. 

Rue Macon. 
Hotel d'Anjou, at 22. : Hotel du Mans, 
at 25 fols per month. 

. Qy artier Le Luxembourg. 

Rue de Condi. 
Daumier, Traiteur, at 12 and 15 livres : 
Petit Hotel de Beny > frorn 9 to 15. liyres. 

Rue de Tournon. 
Hotel du St. Efprit, from 9 to 30 : 
Hotel. d'Entragne, at. 4* 6, and 24 livres. 

Rue des Fojfes M. Le. Prince, 
Hotel de Bourgogne, they take boarders. 

Rue Des Boucheries. 
LeChoeur, Traiteur, at 22 fols -,. Vernier, 
Tifciteur, at ditto. * , 

Qu artier S. Germain des Pres* 

Rue. GuenegauU 
Hotel d* Abbeville, at different prices. 

.. '• ; Z / L 6 Rut 

*z8 The CentlmmCs Guide 

Rue Mazarine. 

I/Hotel du Gros Raifm, at different 

Hue de Bujfy. 
Landelle, Tratoeur, from 3 to 24 livres.. 

Rue de Seine. 

Hotel de Picardie, from 22 fols to 3 

Rue du Colombhr, 

De la Salle, Trakeur, iixxm .20 fols to 
3 livres 5 Hotel d'Efpagne, at all prices. 

Rue duSepukkre. 

? Bailie, from ao to 30 ibis* Hotel d*~ 
.Angleterre, from 20 fols to 3 livres. 

-Rue St, Bemtt. 
Hotel du St. Efpnt, at different prices* 

Foreftier, Traiteur, from 30 fbfe*o:6 


» U t Mi >iig> U i mn IWh fa ll l) l 


o R 


QuAKTlBft F%I*ftr£S <ROrY*L. 

ifo* *fef ^Frondtun. 

ROLLOT a l*Hptel >des quatre pro- 
vinces, from 24 to ,350 livres per 

Rut ZFravtrJiere. 

Hotel diiJPerou > feom 44 Jto 200 : Ho- 
stel des Indes* from 24 to 230 livres pfr 

Jto* St. Anne. 
Hotel de Stfcd^'froto 12 to 200 livres 

' Rue Rictilm. , 

I/Hotel de Strafbourg, at 24, 3o > 40; 

150, and 20a : LfHotel des Deux Siciles* 

*t.3Q» 1 00*450, andra^ lirr^sipcrmonth. 

a$o The Gentleman* s Guide 


Rue des^FoJfes Monimartre. 
Hotel des Vi&oires, from 18 to 100, 
150, and 200 livres per month. 

Rue Neuve'St. Euftache. 
Hotel de Strafbourg, from 10 to 120 : 
Hotel de Carignan, from 10 to 100 livres 
per month. . . 

Qu artier St. Eustache: 

Rue de la Ooix des Pettis Champs. 
Hotel des Gefvres, from 30 to 400, 
coach-houfes and ftables, per month* 

'Rue de Grenelk. 
"' Hotel de Grenelle, from' 12 to r2o 5, 
'Hotel de Lyon, -from 24 to 300 livres 
per month. , 

r " : -Rut des deux Ecus. ' 

Hotel des Dew Ecusiiroiri'So to 3<*> 
livres per month* 

r \ Si. 

^r.iXutides iPrVuiaires.. 

• Hotel ^es'Prouvaires, from 24 to j;oo 
- Hires' pfcfrWnth^ coach-houfes and ftables. 


fn his Tour through France, i&^c 
Qv artier St. Martin. 

Rue Neuve St. Merri. 

Hotel d'Abbeville,-from 20 to 100 
livres per month. 

<*"".'. • ." ' 

Quartier St. Avoye* 

Rue de la Verrerie. 

La Ville de Rheims, from 2a to 10a 
livres per month. 

, Qv artier St. Andre des Arts.. 

Rue Dauphine* 

Hotel de Flandres, from 24 to 40a, 
coach-houfes and "ftables : Hotel d'Anjbu, 
from 24 to 40b, coach-houfes and ftables : 
Hotel d'Efpagne/ from 40 to iob, coach- 
houfes and ftables: Petit Hotel de' Flan- 
dres, from 24 to 100, coach-houfes and 

* ftables : Hotel de Thouloufe, from 24 to 

* 100 livres per month, coach-houfes arid 
ftables, - :•,.:.•... 

Rue des Grands' Jugufiins. ., 
, i Hotel de Turin, from 30 to 400 livres 
; per montH, coach-houfes and Sables. . • 

- Rue 

*$z ¥ht Gentkmm's Guide 

Rue GhrflHne. 
Chelling, king's taylor, Hotel dc Ruflie* 
from 24 to 300 Tivrcs per months coach.- 
Aoufes and (tables. 

Rue St. Andre des Arts. 

Grand Hotel de Bologne, from 24 tqt 
100, coach^houfes and ilabks : Hotel de 
Chateaux Vieux, from 20 to 200, coach- 
houfes and {tables: Hotel de Hollander 
•from 60 -to 300 livres per month, coach- 
houfes and (tables. 

Rue du Pat*. 

* Hotel de Tours, from too to 80a 
livres per month, coach-houfes and ftables.. 
Rue du Jardinet. 

.Hotel d'Angleterre, from 24 to 300* 
coach-houfes and ftables : Hotel Notre 
Dame, from 90 to 300 livres per month* 
coach-houfes and ftables. 

Rue du Batoir. 

Hotel if Angleterre, from 24 to 30a 
Jiyresper month, coach-houfes and ftables.. 


Rue de Condi. 
LTrnperatriee de Ruffle* from .15 Uk 
2t30 : Hotel de Province, from 24 to 500 
livres per month* coach-iot^and ftables.. 


iniuT^r *m%b France. *g§ 

Rue it Toxhtan. 
Hotel de k FrifiUere, from *4 to 400^ 
coach-boufes and* ftables : Held de Ttf- 
vilfe, from 300 to 1200, coach-hanies and 
ftables : Hotel de ChatiHon, from 30 to 
300, coach-houfes and ftables: Hotel de 
Suede, from 1 8 to 200, coach-houfes and 
ftables : Hoed d'Swrtgiie, from 50 to 
jooo livre* per moflth* ^aobrhofc»fe$ and 


Rue Guewqgaut. 

Hotel d* Abbeville, from 24 to 1505 
Hotel d'Efpagne, from zo to 500 fivrea 
per month. 

Rue Mazarine. 

Hotel de Montmorency, from 24 "to 
aoo : Hotel de Luxembourg, from 48 
co 250 Uvres per month. 

Rue des Petits Augufiins. 

Hotel d'Orleans, from 400 10500 livre* 
per month. 

Rue da Gohmbier. 

Hotel d'Hollande, from 20 to $oo % 
roach-hotifes andftabks :>HoleHl£fpagn^ 


f 34 • ?ht Gentleman's Guide . 
from 20 to 200, coach-houfes and ftables : 
Grand Hotel d'Efpagne, from 20 to 300 : 
Hotel de Saxe, from 100 to 400 : Hotel 
de Londres, from 30 to 150: Hotel de 
Notre Dame, from 24 to 300 : Hotel de 
Luines, from 40 to 450 : Hotel du Pare 
Royal, from 24 to 450 livres per month. 

Rue du Sepulchre* 
Hotel des Afturies, from 30 to 500, 
coach-houfes and ftables : Hotel de Stras- 
bourg* from 24 to 250 livres per moqth, 
coach-hotifes and ftables.* " 

Rue de "taranth. 

Hotel de Taranne, co^ch-houfes and 
ftables; Hotel du Grancl Villard, from 
20 to 200 livres per month. 

' . Hotel- da St. 1 Efprit, from 60 to 200 t 
Hotel de Rouen, from 30 to 200 livres 
per months - 

Rue Jacob* 

1 Hotel du Perou, from 70 to 500, coach - 
houfes and ftables: Hotel deRome, from 
30 to 500 : Hotel 'dAubourg, from 100 
to 400, coach-houfes and ftables : Caland 
Baigneur, from 90 to 400 : Hotel d'Ant 
4 % bacq* 

in his Tour through France. 23$ 

bacq, from 40 to 300 » Hotel du Port 
Mahon, from 18 to 3oolivres per month, 
coach-houfes and ftables. 

Register Office for Servants. 


Cour de Lamoignon* 

This office furnifhes fervants of every 

kind, and of both fexes : the mafter, on 

applying for a fervant, pays 30 fols ; and 

if, after a (hort trial, the fervant does not 

: aniwer his purpofe, the office procures 

, another without farther expenqe. 

Commissaries of the Police. 

If aggrieved in any refpedt, or impofed 
on by the people where you lodge, by 
tradefinen, or if robbed, apply for redrefs 
to the commiffaries of the quarter, a lift 
of whofe names and dwellings is hereunder 

Commissaries Names. 

guar tier la Cite. 

Me/Irs. de la Fofle, rue de la Calande, 
prcs le Palais : DorivaJ, rue des Mar- 

mouzets : 

%$§ The Gentleman's Guide 
Meiiwts: Jofcph Thierry, Me Notre 

Quartier S. Jac. la Bouchcrie. 

Mr. ChaftelUis* rue de la Vkiflc Mori- 
noyc : Mr. Bourgeois, rue Quincampoix. 

Stuartier Saint e Opportune. 
Mr. Merlin, rue de la Feronnerie : Mr. 
Jofeph Laumonier, rue Serein Poiree. 

Quartter <ki Louvre. 

Mr. Cadot,rue Sl Honore, pres la rue 
d'Orleans: Mr. Chcnon, rue5aijKHono(«» 
pres la rue des Prouvaires. 

Quartier du Palais Royal. 

Mr. Girard, rue Saint Thomas du 
Louvre : Mr. Sirebeau, rue de TEchellc : 
Mr. Thieron, rue Saint Honore, vis-a-vis 
Saint Roch. 

Quartier Montmartre. 
Mr. Levie, rue de la Feuillade, au coin 
de la Place des Viftoires : Mr. Fontaine* 
rue Neuve Saint Euftache. 

tyuartier Saint Euftache. 
Mr. Defnoyers, rue des Vieux Auguftins: 
Mr. de la Flcutrie, rue des Prouvaires. 


in his Tcur thrtugh France* k$j 

ght artier ks Halles* 

Mr. de Machuriir, rue des Prefeheurs : 
Mr. Hugues, rue Comtefle d'Arcois. 

Quartier Saint Denis. 
Mr. Grimperel* rue Mauconfeil* vis-4- 
vis la Comedie ItaUenne-: Mr. Charpenr 
tier, rue S. Denis, pres $. Sauveur : Mr. 
Duchefne, rue aux Ours. 

^uartier Saint Martin. 
Mr. Leclair, rue Simon-le-Franc, pres 
la rue Beaubourg : Mr. Mouricault rue de 
la Verrerie, pres les Confuls : Mr. Dudoigt, 
rue Grenier-Saint-Lazare. 

Quartier la Greve. 
Mr. Dubuiflbn, rue du nionceau Saint 
Gervais : Mr. Porquet, rue de la Tixeran- 
derie, vis-i-vis celle des Coquilles* 

<$uartier Saint Paul. 
Mr. de Rochebrune, rue GeofFroi-Lafr 
nier: Mr. Belle, rue des RiUettes. 

Slgartier lempk cu Matais. 
Mr. Maillot, rue & pres TEchelle du 

Slgartitr Saint jfntcwe* 
Mr. Trudon, rue Saint Antoine, &u coin 
du cul dfcfac Guimcnee : Mr. Auret Dela- 


2$ 8 the Gentleman 9 s Guide 

graves, rue du Roi de Sicile, vis-a-vis la 
rue Cloche-perche : Mr. Crafpy, pour le 
Fauxbourg, S. Antoine. 

Quarticr Place Maubcrt. 
Mr. le Maire, Montagne Saint Gene- 
vieve : Mr. Titoux, Place Maubert. 

Sportier Saint Benoift. 
Mr. Doublon, rue Saint Julien le Pauvre: ' 
Mr. Roland, rue des Noyers. 

guar tier S. Andre des Arts. 
Mr. le Blanc, rue Saint Andre des Arts* 
vis-a-vis la rue Contrefcarpe : Mr. Reg- 1 
naudet, rue Saint Severin : Mr. Duruiffeau, 
rue de la Harpe pres la rue de la Parche- 

§luartier du Luxembourg. 
Mr. le Comte, rue & vis-a-vis la Come- 
die Franjoife : Mr. Bourguigny, rue du 
Four, Fauxbourg Saint Germain : Mr. 
Guyot, rue des Quatre- Vents. 

Quartier S. Germain des Prez. 
Mr. Hubert, rue du Four* Fauxbourg 
S. Germain, pres le Marche : Mr. Chenu, 
rue Mazarine : Mr. Thiot, grande rue dc 

Masters 1 

in his tour through France. 239 

Masters of Languages* 

* French. • \ 

Mr. Touflaint, rued'Enfer. 

. German. % 

RKombius, rue des Poftes, 4 Latin an<$ 
German : Goccius, Quai des Morfondu au 
Bras d'Or: Marchand, rue de la Harpe. 

Berry, rue St. Honore, k la Croix d'Or s 
Rely, ruedela Comedie Franyoife: Rollet 
l'Aine, rue St. Honore, pres celle des 
Poulies : Flint, rue du Four, Fauxbourg, St. 


Beftera,ruePotde Fer: Blanchard, dans 
L'Ifle St. Louis': Cardinali, au Petit Lux- 
embourg : Fortunati, au coin de la rue de 
Baune : Sapieni, rue de la Harpe : Conti, 
& PEcole Militaire. 

Spanijk. •' 

Bertera, rue Pot de Fer : Sapieni, ni$de 
la Harpe ; L?Abbe Giron, rue St. Domi- 

# , Geography! 



'^AlMWritoi^ rae St/Jacques ! Ba- 
reine, v au CbHege dfe jfeqivfeis : I/Afoiral, 
rue du Petit Ljoa : L* Abbe Nicttk, de la 
Croix pres St. <*rervais : N Philippe de Pre- 
tot, cehfor Royal me de la Harpe. 
♦ JMUdarae <fe St* Lubki, rue Notre 
D?ok4cs Vi&wes: Gratis, Wide* Vw» 


Audierne, au Caffe du Sieur Maciet, au 
Coin de la rue Gefvres : Bezoul, rue de* 
Poulies : L'Abbe Charlier, rue de U 
Harpe : De Montcarville, Cenfeur Royal, 
ruedelaVieilleBouclerie : Rouffel,Cloitrc 
5t. Benolt. 

Terrier, rut de Poitou, au Mamts. 

Chabbt, rue dela Bretonnerig': £anet f 
tue du Chaiitre : Daniel, rue de la Mon- 
noie: Guilleaurtte; rue de Seine: Telia- 
gpri, aux Ecuries d'Qrleans. 


Laval, dancing matter to the children 
of France, rue St. Thomas du Louvre : 


in Ms fo*r ikrmgh France, *4t 

Lani, rue Croix des Pettts Champs; Mai- 
.toy foe des Petit* Auguftiw j Veftris, 
rue neuye St. Eufiache. 

The public exchange, called la Bourfe, 
is fituated in rue Vivienne Quartier du 
Palais Royal, and is open every day, Sun- 
days and holidays excepted, from twelve 
to one at noon. 

Adions de la Compagnie des Indes * 
Adions des Fermes Generates ; 
Bfllets des Fermes Generales ; 
Billets des Recevoirs Gcneraux 5 
, BiUets des Marchands * 
X-ettres des Change ; 
Contrats fur la ViUe au Denier 40 * 
Idem at quatre pour cent. 
Mem fur les Poftes k trois per cent. 
Idem fur les Tailles 5 
Idem fur la Comp*gnc des Indes ; 
Idemfur la Caiffe des Amortiflfements; 
Idem 2 fols pour livre j 
Billets d'Emprtmt, Oftobre 1 
Annuites a coupons % 
2 dc Lotterie Roy ale ; 
3 mc Lotterie Royaler 
Duplicata ; 
4 mc Lotterie Roy ale; 
Divifee in 1 2 Epoques. 

r */ ,. , : Court Carriages. 

• ""• The office which ftirriifhes Carriages tb 
thofe places wheife the court refides, arid 
other royal fe2ts> is fituated on the Qua! 
tfOrcai,' Fauxbourg St. Germain pres le 
jRopt Royal. - ! 

Mj At this office chaifes and coaches taay 
•jbfe had| at 4l^hp«rs, which are obliged to 
fet off immediately upon paying the whole 
fare. . # 

Pr/r* of Places. 

Livw*. Sofe. 

From Paris to Verfailles, or from 

Verfailles to Paris . • 3 10 

From Paris to Marli . . 3 10 

From- Paris toCompeigne, or from 

Compeigneto Paris, the coach 14 10 

Ditto the chaife ' . . 16 10 

From Paris to Fontainbleau, or 
froni Fontainbleau to Paris, 
the coach - • . v • " . 9 io 

Ditto chaife . . . 11 o 

From Paris to Choify, it is ufual 
to pay for both going and re- 
turning, and yon are then : at li- 
berty to keep it the whole day, 
the coach . . . \ 20 o 

Ditto chaife . . 10 o 


'("43 ) 


, O F T H E 



^Different Parts of the Kingdom. 

' » i , ■ ■ ' — mmm — ^— ' 


f<? St. Germain* en* Lave. 

RU E et porte S t. Honore* vis-a-vis 1c 
Cul -de Sac de'l'Orgucil, coach and 
chaife 3 liyres 5 fols, baggage 6 deniers, 
JSCaravaa 1 Wvrt 5 fols, 6 deniers. 
v Sets out in fummer at (even in the morn- 
ing and two in the afternoon. In winter 
at eight in the morning. 

M 2 To 

*44 The Qcntkman's Guide 

To Poissy. 

(Sets out from the fame place.) 
Coach and cbaife 4 livres 10 fols ; Ca- 
ravan 1 livre 10 fols; baggage above 
3albv weight, 6 deniers. 

The coaches znd chaifes at all hours ; 
the caravan twice a day, a^ feven in , the 
morning, and at two in cfte afternoon in 
fummer, and at eight in winter. 

MiVhAM Coach 

Sets out from the fame place every 
Tuefiay and Friday at five in {he mum* 
ingin winter, at fix m fummer. 

The Fare is 5 livres, and 9 cfeniens * 
pound for baggage. , . 

Gtsoft'j Caravan 

Sets out every Friday at noon from the 
Rue Montorgueft au bout du Mondfe J 

Fare tp Gifors 7 livrei 10 fob, baggitee 
1 fol; to Gournay 9 livre^ baggage i/ioi 
3 deniers * toJForgps 15 livres* baggige 1 
fol 6 deniers. */£ 



in his four ihrwgh France. 24$ 

Ville D 9 Ev Coach * 

Sets out from Rue du Jour, pres §£* 
Euftache eyery other Sunday at noon. 

The Fare 13 15 livres, and 2 fels per 
lb* for baggage. 

The Rouen Coach 

Sets out from the Rue Pavee pres les 
Grands Auguftins every Monday, Wed- 
aefday and Friday, at fqur in the nornifi 

The Fare is .1 z liyres. 


Evrsux CmcH 

- Sets out from the Rue dcs petks Cat- 
jcaux every Wcdnetflay and Friday at five 
in the morning, , . ■ ■ " 

The Fare is 8 livres* 

The Vernon and Lottviers Coach 

Sets outf from the Hwel de Lizieur r 
Rue des Fofles St. Germain L'Auxerroiar 
every Tuefday at noon. 

Fare to Vernon 4 livres j to Louvier* 
£ Eyres. 

M 3; TU 

*4* The GentUntans Guide 

IjfcCoTTENTIN Coach 

Sets out every Monday at five in the 
morning from the Rue St. Denis vis-a-vis 
lesFfflesfMeu. ]l '! " ' ' ? V 

ThcFaretoCden i ^i'St. Loo 1 8 1'fcou^ 
tances 20 ; Valogne 24-, Montebourg24-, 
Carentan 24 j Iffigny 24 • ' Grandville 26 ; 
Cherbourg 30 livres. 

j; v ^ :.'-iA\J . *: 
The. Beaumont (bach 

. Sets out every Tueftlajv Thuri^y^jpd 
Saturday, at eight in tjie ipo«mngip tOT^t- . 
mer, and every \VecJnel3ay' knd^&wddt^ 
in winter, from the $pe jfes Fet^ 'Cjfye-"* 
aux ores la Rue Nlontorgueii. ' 
The Fare eight livres. , 

( 9>k Verneuij. <3wA ,. .;. '• 

Sets out cVefry Wednefday ahd Friday • 
at five in the n*Ormhg, : from the Rpc det* 
Petits Carreaux pr£* la Rue Montorgijfeih 

The Fare ten livres. 

f%i Alencon Coach .\ 

Sets out ev^ry Wednefifey fit fiv^Hfr* 
the morning, from the Rue*ttes 'Tfcttti G&t** 
reaux pres la Rue Montorgueil, - . '*« H ± 

The Fare fourteen livres^ 

in % htt$our through r France. 2^ 

vt : *•: 

Sets' oat' every Wednefa^a^' Hyf\ tfi; 
the morning, i\oijrvth<? I^uf $e& J^t£t$ t*r- 
reaii* pres la Rue Montofgueii 

The Fare fifteen livres. ' , 

The-UAtcht Coach 

Sets out''eil^^-'Fri(l4]r b ih6rhing from 
thcTLucidei^edti'C^r^aux pr&laRue 
MoritprgueiL >; '^> J * r ..- : ,^> 

The f aretweiv^4i*res- ^ - ' 

,93* Falause Coach 

Sets out evefy Wedhefday at five in the- 
mornings from .; j-hes , Rfle^ des Peti ts Car- ) 
reauxpi£s la. Roe MontoigueiL % 

.The Fare^igbtcert^livresi - 

¥he V*re, &c CarrUtf 

Sets out every *Wednefday„ from the* 
Hotel de Lifteux, Rue. des Foffes; St. Ger- 
main I' Auxerrois, , , 

Fare 35 Uvres, diet included^ 

M 4 ' " tffc 

2 48 2%# GaUkmmts GmJ* * 

The AYRMtBrf, &c'G*rrifrs 

Set out every TucicUy riSon* *mbm 
the Hotel dtUStiiiL J -< ' V,' \f 
The Fare iwt| liy-vp. 

/.' i 

Pe*che, MaUOU A^Jp^JfrE- 

7*# Montfort,. <sfr. Carrier* Vt ,. 

$* out every Tud^ay sad StfiftJ^af 
from the Hotel dellifiey^. '. . f ■',.,.. 
The Fare three liviib/, ,; 

' Thi Mortaghe Carriers 

^Set out every Tijelclajr and Friday at 
eight in the moxning_#oiw tfrd'Ittie du 

Jour jfoes St. Euftadfe. ' • J c r " :T 
The Fare fix livres. * r ' ■>'* : ' * 

72^. BfiLtESMfc CW* 

Srtsatttevtif ThurHay atfive itttbc 
mornihg^rtvri^R«6d^Ejtfcr ^orce>&. 
/Michel. <?±i\» ^i i\>. , ; j 7> 

I The Fare fifteen livres. 

jn&y Tour through France; $4^ 

%ts out every Friday at fix in the* 
fi^idg-fi^ v (l£ : lt^.^^^ forte Su 

The Fare to Mam 4q livxes* ancl to$ 
Attgets 30 Hvas. i 

Sets out every Monday at fire in &fr 
morning fram^e-ltue Favfe £s£s.-1cl 
Grands Auguftu\s, , 

The Fare to ftehn$* 40 ffin£s£ andta 
$t.*Mala 47 Hvaes ; W fitts*^ * ^ : ; f , # V> 


Sets, oat, ipjtrf Friday' .'ai; £*> i» th«r 

inning from &eT^*$^^ ». 

TheFarenirKUvf^;^;;;^^,., . "' 

^«ti^Meiicw , W«diiefday/«^#|t iathfr 
TheE«rei8Uvrcs. • 

;«;* M 5; OatBAM- 

r- 1 ""-^.**! 

%$q The GtntUmorfs Guide . . i 

Orl£annois, Touraine, Berry, 


♦ etc, . . ; H , / j- J-/J j..^ .. rr. - 
STAf ARt>Ajo^ Caravan ]?- nV :r u 

Sets out every Wednesday, at ten? in tk£ 

morning-, and every Saturday at five in 
the morning, arid at^Wtnh riieT afternoon, 
from the Rue du Fauafbour* St^ Jaqyes, a 
I'ltnage St. Jaqu^S. ;: * v \ ' %\ 
. Tfcc Fare 6rffc llvfe fivkiWs.' : ' ^J 7/X 

Tvfc EsTAMpisi tic. Cqpch' 
Sets out every Sunday at fix- in the 
morning from the RAtfCottttefcdi-pe. 
The Fare fix livres Vi , x . . 

.! ' * f* .... 

. -Sets out every day Vt ; 4^ 'iaihe, pqrnjng - 
h fumriier, anVfot 'teii'in wxnterV'fronrLtlic 
Rue Comrefcarpe! \\ ••'.// 
Tk* Fare \$X\v'm* , v .-. 

• Sets xnitwerj W^etf&y'ftt' 'fiy-in the* 
mornuig> in winter* aj*d SY^ry/Xueiday^ 
fammer, from the Ri^^V^WTP^'V 
The fare 25 livres. 

in His Tvur through France^ Ttft 


2%t jlLQisfioach 

Sets out every Thurfday at fixiathe> 

»orning from the Rue jContrefc^rpe. .. t . 

The Fare i 8 livres. . J 

7%e BbuRCEs QoatTv ' \ *\ 

Sets out evtry Tuefday- at fix in. the 
morning in fummer,and at ten in winter,, 
from the Rue Coritrefcarpe, J 

The Fare 25 livres. 

fhe Fontenay Carrier* 

Set out from the fame inn as the- 
Bourses Coach, every Sunday, at ten in the 
morning, from the Rue Contrefcarpe. 

The Fare 75 livres,, including diet. 

* '"> 

tte Rochelle CoacTk 

Sets out every- Monday at ten in the 
morning from, the -.fame i&ii as the Fon- 
tcn^y carriers. ...... •> . , ; 

The face fe Uyjses^^ 

M 6 ty$ y „ 


25* 73' Gmtiamrts Guide 

^fhe ANGbuLBrtE, Fericeu^ etc. • 
- Carriers 

Set out every Sunday nrarning at nine 
o'clock* from die ftmfe ittii as tteBourgca 
£oach* , r „ t 

^Kc j*4rc to^An^nilemc 78 livrcs, and 
to JPerigueiac i>o liy^ diet included* 


Sets out every Tuefofy' 'at' &n in the 
morrringi from the Rue Coj^fcaqpc* : 
The; JBaee yz lucres. .• ; ; 

LiMosiN a.nt> fc«taaxj»t)oc»: 

Sets out every Wednefilay from the 

Rue crEft&ryPctffeSk Mifcrirt. 

The' price of a horfe is 9© livtes, in- 

ciuSrngVoVtr aiet^" 1 ; • ^ <«- ' "> • '• 
.. i-vZd \...l'.sn:.r- ;/ # {i."> r.,,.,., or.; 

. £fo LlMOCES <!»4 ^ffiW'" 

Ssts. ojjt atany tunc frc^rh fo fspfle inn. 
as the Limoges "carrier.' ' "" " ' ■ -' 

The Fare to Limeges 4» 150 ■ftms > 
and toTholeufe 180 livrcs, die! included. 


in his 5V*r t}mufh t France* 2 $$ 

NlVERNOIS* . ftoUltBONNO**, Au* 

'!\ ' *. $*[ ,1^>iTARGis Coach . I 

Sets out every TJturfdqy at four in tha 
m^^[p^iWimd tin. Diligence* 

The Fare fi* fores* 

Se&ollt fittitt the lame inn as the Moik 
targis coach, every Mondbjr morning at 
ten o'clock. 

TheJSwRBJix lirofes-n 5 . . 

Travellers may meet with a coach at 
Moulins whJ*w&U g&diie&ly to Lyons* 


<£U <3ip»q»T Coach 

. Sets out frwj the fame mn a* the Mo*v- 
targls coach, eve*y We&wtfiay morning 
at ten o'clock. 

TheF&re; 481roes* 

There is a Iteriin at Ckrtnont wfttctfc 
goes to Raanne, and jafleaby the way of 


*54 * The Gentleman** Guide 

The Aurillac Carrier r 

Sets out every Wednefday from the: 

The Fare is no livres, diet included* 

* •■■*"" 

* • ... .j 


Lyownois, etc 

The V>\)ok Coach 

\ Sets out everjr Monday morning at feyeir 
o'clock from Parte S$. Paul. 

The Fare 30 ttvres. ' 

m This coach goes by tfofc way of "Chain- 

... ' . - * .•• >• - „ ': • • - ■ ^ 

Sets ojut jfrom "the fame inn as the;* 
Dijtmcoacih' every Frlcfey in- fummer, and 
every Thurfday in winter, and goes by/: 
the way of Burgundy. • : ' '' ' > : - j * ; . . 

The Fare 42 livreS. ; r 

; v .:.»':-; ii-.;t- ;m/J t •• • * 

; ... 7VDtt,icEN£S*/ Lyons 

v Sfctfe^rt evti^ iyth*r tJay from'Forfe £n ;r 
Paul, and is the moft commodious kritT 


^ w j> •*" sac 1 

in his 5W« through FrariSe. 255: 
expedition ftage-coach in ths kingdom, 
travelling above 2oleagues a day r and not 
more than five days in performing the 
whole journey, The Diligence goes by. 
land no farther than Challons,froni whence 1 
, the pafiengerigOr by crater toTJfohsi ' 
The Fare- i 00 livres, diet included. 

Brie,Champa<*nevLoraine, and 


^ets'oiit ev&y Tuffity^frrifig jat five; 
• o'clock from Rue St.X^ouis jwi Marais* 
The JFVe. fivy UvresV * " ," ~\ "" " ^ 

5Tfo Laony Carriage 

\\ *.»; .. .;..*; ..>, ^oVm- #?i"< /• ?■ * »*' 

Sets out every Tuefday, Thurfday >( aiut 
Saturday v at ten o'clock apt, ^hej^riupg,* 
from Rue. BouViibix3urg> pr£^, JajCimiuere 

The Pare two livres ten fols, , 

^^^^BkiEiCoMTK -Robert CawA. (<> 
Sets out eVery SatVrSay^ifiorniiig at ten 




i$6 Tkt Gmihmmts G*i& 

At this inn may be had very commodi- 
ous chaifea and berlihs. 

fto "Pfcovws (hack 

Sets opt every TuefiJay at fix in the 
morning, from the fette Anas tic Iftjb- 

flfc T*oy**^m<A . 

Sets out from the fame inir as the Brie- 
Coaite-Robert coach* every Wodneflag 

morniiig ttfcvetio'dock, * * 
T^Fa* aoJmest ■ > 

J*A* Largess £ta& 
Sets out eveiy Satankyirem Rue dfc 

Sets ©ut every Vfednefijlay and Satur- 
day at &i in tor dining fWir Rue fe la 
Vcrreri&Hotel Potnponm:. - 

Thc^Paftffcwrlivres. ! > .< ; . . 

Chaifca and berlia* nwyb*hAd «r thi*> 

in his : ***rMr«tgb IFram*. a$ j 5 

: ' 7V YBe JotKviiLE Coach 

Sets out from the fame inn as the Me'au* 
coach, everjr Satyt|4l$r »oe#k 
The Fare 20 Unfits. - ■ * 

Sets out from the feme^inn as tfw 
Meaux coach, every TUdRia^ momteg ^ 
fix o'clock. 

The Fare fjfto * ^ v 

Sets out from *tfafc &f0# ^«M> 90 At 
Meaux coach, everyi-dRrid^r twmag at 
fix o'clock. 
The Fare*5^w*^A J *£, 

* . "^ 

;o - r» 3ar5iiAS50&R#i<5¥^ >4 . .,,,- : • 

Sets out from the feqie inn i^'tte* 
Meaux coach, every ^mk^tiatk^ *t 
fix o'clock. t 

TheFan?^!^^ AjM ^ T 

Sets out everyAuanrda^imaffl^' if ,-$&* 
o'clock, from RueSfrAfaaSii* >**B-i-:m 

The Fare iz Uvres, 

the Sink*. £oach ' v 

Rheiaxh coa* h, eMtry- W^diwft^ ntoffi* 1 ' 
ing at Six o'clock. 
The Fare 21 livrts. 


.. » TfcSoiksoMs &*/£ 

Sets out eyery Saturday morriifig at 
four o'clock from the Rue St. Martin, vis* 
a^vis cdlexteModtmbisettcy. ' -• - 

Sets out from the fame inj^ 91 .the f$9i£- , 
Tons coactf, every Monday Morning at fix 
oicjocfe. v y } .« yi: , . ( \\ «,.., . .i , ..; i. 

/'"-.->.. • • ' • r ' r n 

Sets out from the fame inn as the 
Soiflbns coacfy evefy Thurfdaj- morning; 

.." ^ ] 

in his "SW- ihrtvgh '•&ane& *$$ 

The $t- % QaiK7i^ <3flf# 
Sets out Mondays and Thurftiays at.five 
u* the- imtnmg^ff&A the Grand Cerf, 
Rue £l Den^ >if&rvip lte Fiflcsinku i . * 
fc The Fare i5livtes..;[ ; r; . .;, l' 

The ir.Omk Coach 

. Sets out from the fame inn as the St. 
Quintin cott^tytP&.TurfdlY and Fri- 
day at five in'tfe aborning, m. 
TheFarr28 limes* } ' ~ 

-the BRjfS#RAS IJbuWKKCB J * • 

..Sets out every offi^d^tthfee Sh ! fee 
morning in winter, ^and inXunpner at mid* 
night, from die- Rue"£L ' Denis, vis-a-vis 
le3'Faies-13ierf. ? -' ■ - 1 * ^ " ' 
TheFaife^liW^.^ 1 ^ «.' -! 
.The Co^hm^tn finds each pafleitgef in 
<&& a*.f«LW. Camb*%y, j f6r five livres 
more than the fare ; and to Valenciennes* 
Mons, antf Bf uffeis, .for Xeteh iivr$s* 

$he, GreSj,; &Hfr!<2m,&ri£& Coach 

: Sets - out Tuefdays and ; Saturdays ' at 
eight ia. the morning -Snkn thc/Rue Men* 

torgueil, au compafi d'Or. 
• The Fare two livres ten fols 

': .. i . 7V 

Xkt Pohtoisb Coach . 

Sets out from the fame inrt astfce Crcil 
and Chantilly coach, everyTuefday, Thurf- 
day and Saturday, at ten m the morning* 

The Fare three Inrtes. X ' - 

The Beauvais Coach. 

Sets out every Mfriday at eight in the 
morning from the Rue St. Denis vu-a-via 
ks Filles-Pieu. r ? 

The Fare fix fibres ten fete. * , ' 

ffoMoNTmwi* thach r 
Sets out from the fame inn as the Beau- 
*rfa ooadi; every Friday n five in the 

? TheH^are fifefortts ten fols. > # 

Tfo ABBEViLW Gwwfc 

Sec* fcttt from the fame inn as the Beat* 
Tab coacls Tuesdays/ TWickyfi an* 
Saturdays at five in the mornings 

The Farei'S'lfrres. 1 :^.^ 

7)k Cava** Gwtk 

Sets out ftom die fame mh as*he*&u- 
w coach every Friday mftning* at ciglte 
o'clock. * ' 


a i.i sr 

fc-I— r* *" ^K-J^ '" 

'■•■■< *«1 'J- 

{ . -» 4 V 

SET out (rom the pont Rp^'ffa 
Scvc t every day at feven in the morn- 
ing, and for St. Cloud atfrc in the morn- 

" i Boats fet off at all hours from the fame 
place, on* paying four livres, which is the 
whole fare of the boat; 

Tht Vxu&neuvb Cocke <TEau 

l„i9W,pm&m¥<x*S*< Jfculerory Wed- 
mid^yi : .3i r ti^e ia.jha a^enwoA . froQi 
Eafter-day, to the feaft of $ §awt* 
TheFajeiafok. rv iC . i .: 

- > J *• Sfr 


5 French Roads. — The Gentleman's Guide 
in his Tour through France, wrote by 
an Officer, Fourth Edition, greatly eii-' 
larged and improved ; to which is added - 
a large correct map of all the Post-roads 
of France, 8vo, folding map, half calf, 
uncut, 5s /^(oj^X ,L<\t6V. 1770 


' A 

•'/ iT 

kjtt>".-JLL r 

• *4., 

«AR 2 9 1957 

Deackfified using the Bookkeeper 
Neutralizing agent: Magnesium 
Treatment Date: Dec. 2005 

Preservation Tec/W 


111 Thomson Park Dm* ' 
Cranberry Tbwnshp, P* , 
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